beginner annealer Tempilstik which temp?

S

stevelong

Guest
Hello, read a lot of posts on annealing, going to attempt first time before long.
.222 Lapua cases.
Simpler is better for me.
But I don't want to just heat up cases & ruin them by going too long.
WHAT BASIC temp TEMPILSTIK would be a decent point for me to begin with?
I know, some will say use tempiLAC, some say don't use anything, some say to buy the $200-300-400 machine.........
Ford-Chevy-Dodge.......
I liked Al Nyhus post saying he uses 12 seconds, each case, in 1/2" water.
If it works for AL I might not need TEMPILSTIK - type things......
THOUGHTS?
Thanks in advance,
Steve Long.
 
12 seconds with my .223 brass would turn it cherry red. 5 to 6 seconds gets it to start turning blue. My understanding is once it is red it is no longer good brass.
 
I can't speak to the .222 but the .223Rem by Lapua that I bought was annealed at the factory so you shouldn't need to do it again for awhile depending how many cases you start with.
 
Start with an absolutely dead dark room. Heat cases until necks just begin to show a dull maroon color. Tip them over into water.
Even lapus's factory annealing can be inconsistent.
 
beginning annealer Tempilstik, which temp?

http://www.gun-tests.com/performance/jun96cases.html

Before the Internet, Roy Dunlap said annealing required skill, today, after the Internet and with all the information available, I believe he was correct. The annealing temperature is a narrow window and annealing is about temperature, time and travel.

I have taken the liberty to quote from the link above.

"The 650-degree crayon, which melts at about 10 to 15 degrees below annealing temperature, is Number 3261K449 in my old McMaster-Carr catalog, at a nominal price of $7.80. Be sure to specify crayon when you order. McMaster-Carr also sells 650-degree temperature-sensing pellets under the same catalog number. These pellets are for other applications and aren’t adaptable to case annealing. The 660-degree crayon changes color at approximately the correct annealing temperature (within 2 degrees or so). Its catalog number is 5960K71 and sells for $6.20. Both come with aluminum pocket holders".

http://www.6mmbr.com/annealing.html

The link above is about two things, selling and educating, I believe the author does a good job covering pros and cons of different methods.

660 degrees is the answer to your question, Roy Dunlap was a master gunsmith, I have a different method that works as good or better.

F. Guffey
 
tempilstik

THANKS for the answers, I'll visit some shops & get some 650* or 660* stik.
Steve Long.
 
annealing

Hi 505Gibbs,

- I can't speak to the .222 but the .223Rem by Lapua that I bought was annealed at the factory so you shouldn't need to do it again for awhile depending how many cases you start with. -


YEH, my cases I've been working with have been loaded a whole bunch.
I have a good qty of new, several hundred, Lapua & Norma both, but I want to prolong the getting into those. I suspect my current working batch has been loaded 40-50-60 times, used them in testing & matches for 5 seasons now.
I'm not smart enough to know that the necks are hardened, but logic says that they are.

Steve.
 
Actual range is from 600 to 650 degrees fahrenheit. Water quench is not necessary, air cool to room temperature is just fine. The idea of using vision for a color may work for some, but us color blind fools, we don't have a chance without the stick or the liquid.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top