Bedding release agent for Cerakote.

Curious

New member
Guys,

I would normally bed a rifle before cerakoting, as such I dont worry about getting the action messed up with wax or plastercene. In those instances I use Mirror Glaze mould release wax, 3 coats buffed between each coat. I have never bedded an action after it has been cerakoted so this is a first for me. My concern it that I will mess the paintwork up using wax that will need to be removed after the job and also plastercene can be difficult to remove without water and a toothbrush.

I was thinking of coating the action in an aerosol dry film release agent then adding the plastercene and then coating it again. I will be using Devcon 10110 as the bedding compound.

I wonder what your thoughts are on this or the best way to do the job?
 
Three different times I've had idiot cerakoting contractors spray the bedded areas (and twice inside the action raceways) while telling me "It Don't Build Up None a'Tall....."

I fired 'em all....and spent DAYS fixing their messes...

Cerakoting is FAT stuff. It's PAINT fer cryin' out loud...It either must be bedded after the fact, or masked off. Cerakoting after bedding will most definitely screw up the bedding job. At least my bedding jobs. It's thicker than the release agent I use.

There is exactly ONE appropriate release agent for bedding rifles, regardless of epoxy brand.....wax. Kiwi Neutral Shoe Polish is what I use most. It works perfectly over cerakote. And it works for Devcon/Marine Tex/JB Weld/Accra/whatever. Put it on, buff it off, twice. Try get it all off. You can't get it too thin.

The stuff Brownell's sells is a joke.

But here we may part ways.... you say wax "must be removed..."

I don't know how to do this as waxing the cerakote is something I've always done. I don't know how to remove wax, I always put it ON a finished product, not take it off.

Plastercene??

Plasticene?

I use natural modeling clay. Don't like salts on guns...

diff'runt strokes I guess.
 
G'day. I recently bedded a ceracoted rifle in Devcon and used Kiwi natural boot polish (as always) as the release agent. Barrel and action came out nicely.

Cheers
Glen
 
Anyone got any thoughts?

I don't see anything wrong with Al's answer. Fill your recesses with your clay of choice, wax the heck out of it and bed. Cerrakote is supposed to be super tough and impervious to solvents so you should be able to clean up with alcohol.
 
Cerakote should not be that thick, I Cerakote Borden actions regularly inside the race ways and everything but the body of the bolt and they run like butter. I bed before Cerakote and use one coat of mold release aerosol, after Cerakote they go together just as they should and are snug as a bug. If you have a car painter shoot your Cerakote it will likely be too thick but it's made to apply .0005-.001 thick and done correctly it will cause no issues with bedding.
 
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