Bedding Issues---1917 Enfield

[WhelenMan]

I'm looking at bedding a 1917 Enfield with a straightened floorplate in the next few days. I've never done one of these and didn't realize until I put in my long fitup action screws that the rear action screw on these has a slightly forward angle. Just looking at it, things appear that when the rear action screw is tightened it will either push the recoil lug away from it's bedding if it's loose or bow the action and put it in a bind if it's tight. Or after the bedding will there not be enough movement to matter? Has anyone ever run into this problem before and if so are there any tricks to getting less stress in the bedding.

 

[Bill Leeper]

I never really cared for the angled screw on the P14/M17 actions either but there is little to be done about it. The use of a steel sleeve as a spacer or a pillar is a good idea. If the bedding is perfect, there should be no stress on the action. The alternative is to bore out the hole in the receiver (use an end mill), bush it, and rethread so the hole is vertical. Then you have to weld up the tang of the trigger guard, extend it a bit, and drill a new hole in the appropriate spot. Easier to just bed it well and hope for the best. Regards, Bill.

 

[williada]

M17 Bedding

Having done a few of these 30 years ago for long range target shooting, I bedded the action in two stages. Do the front bed first and let cure for a week. Then do the rear bed. This ensures there is minimal flex in that action. Make sure the rear takedown screw touches nothing through the stock, with or without pillars. Also check that the trigger guard has no flex on tightening. This too, can be bedded so that the takedown screw is flush when tightened. Use a hard bedding compound, as the tang has a small surface area. Don't overtighten the rear screw. Thirty-three inch pound is sufficient. In my experience, the M17 tends to put rear pressure on that tang rather than forward. Because of this I relieved the rear face of the tang with making tape on bedding. This only allowed the front lug to take all the recoil as it should.
Willy

 

[WhelenMan]

I guess I'll need to bed it in three stages. I'm going to bed the recoil lug first and later do the tang. Then I'll do the floorplate later. I hate to mix up the bedding compound three times but I think you guys are right. I always seem to get that compound where it shouldn't be....on me not the rifle. The rework sounds like the best solution Bill but I don't really think I want to get into that much at this stage. The stock's finished and the I just polished and blued the floorplate and I'd have to back up for that one. I may take your advise and add a pillar to the rear though. Is there any reason you say to use a steel pillar and not aluminum? I've got half inch aluminum rod already bored and ready to cutoff and use.

In regards to torqueing the screws I've learned already the hard way about overtorqueing screws that aren't in solid pillars. I lean toward the lighter side nowadays after replacing one stock because of tightening to 50 in/lbs. on the wrong material.

 

[WhelenMan]

Lynn

Thanks for the tip. I didn't straighten the floorplate myself. It was already done when I bought the rifle. I bought the rifle used with a project in mind. It had a really nice piece of wood on it and the action had been done really well with removal of the ears and polishing. I've already put a new trigger in it and now need to get some checkering tools for my next new project. I've never done checkering but want to learn. I'll probably pick up a junk stock to practice on first until I've got the nerve to hit the nice walnut. I've got the upper bedding in good now but haven't bedded the floorplate yet. It should go quickly. There was enough of a mess cleaning everything up this morning. Looks good but will it shoot?