Bedding Insight??

P

pearidge

Guest
I know this question has been asked numerous times, and yes I did a search to find my answer, but I didn't find exactly what I was looking for. So, I will ask it again.

For example, if you have a Remington Long Action with a 30", 1.250 Staight Contour barrel installed, is it or is it not a good idea to bed an inch or two in front of the recoil lug to help the action handle the weight of the barrel?

I've read where others put a small amount of bedding compound at the end of the forend, but I would think you would want the barrel to float as much as possible.

Enlighten me fellas, and thanks in advance....
 
done it both ways, with bedding under first inch or so of barrel and with 2 layers of tape to be removed after pulling to allow freefloating,,,,,,, never noticed a difference,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,now I've got a $100.00 bill to bet somebody's gonna light me up on this,,,, but,,, the target don't lie,,,,,,,,,it's easy to grind/sand out if you try it and don't like/want to see how it shoots without it,,,,,,,,

the wind is my friend,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

DD
 
My experience is you can bed a considerably amount of the barrel if it is not tapered... and it will shoot about the same as free floating... I don't think you can prove one to be better than the other if the stock is stable and it is bedded stress free.

That being said... free floating the barrel uses less epoxy and allows barrel changes without re bedding...

Short range BR however is dominated by free floating barrels...
 
I think an important issue is , what is supporting the action?
If the action is very well supported with a bedding block or stout epoxied in pillars or maybe a rigid laminated stock then just bed two to three inchs infront of recoil lug.
30 " 1.25 diam. barrel is a weighty barrel and the stock should also be capable of supporting the weight especially if you go full free floating .
 
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Bedding barrel

I have a number of heavy barreled rifles and I bed the first inch in front of the recoil lug. I think this is pretty standard practice in the tactical gun build business. I also have a full blown custom 308 that was professionally bedded out 1" past the recoil lug.

With a fiberglass stock, I cannot see any reason for not providing this added support to the barrel/action. If you do not, their will be considerable stress put on the action in supporting all that steel of the barrel. Just my thoughts.

This is also the method used by the USMC in their sniper rifles.

George
 
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BBL Block

IMHO float the action use a barrel block. Thats a lot of barrel. I had the same choice a few years ago with a Rem actioned rifle,I had the action pillar an glass bedded and the first 6" of barrel channel .It shot ok but as the barrel warmed up it would shift impact.I talked to several smiths after that and was convinced that the barrel block system would be a better way to go.It has proven to be a super setup. The rifles that I have this setup on use Bill Shehane ST1000L stocks ,Bills Barrel blocks with Hart smithed barreled actions
 
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Roger T said:
IMHO float the action use a barrel block. Thats a lot of barrel. I had the same choice a few years ago with a Rem actioned rifle,I had the action pillar an glass bedded and the first 6" of barrel channel .It shot ok but as the barrel warmed up it would shift impact.I talked to several smiths after that and was convinced that the barrel block system would be a better way to go.It has proven to be a super setup. The rifles that I have this setup on use Bill Shehane ST1000L stocks ,Bills Barrel blocks with Hart smithed barreled actions
Click to expand...

I agree that is another good option.
 
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