Bedding a Savage Dual Port action

[Lefty lucas]

Can someone post a picture of a stock for a Savage Dual port action that has been bedded? I am a little fuzzy about the Tang area? Or do you even bed the tang area?

Thanks
Lefty Lucas

 

[Charles E]

I have only bedded 110s, and don't know if the Dual Port is the same basic action . . . but, you normally only bed where there are screws, i.e., pressure downwards. With the 110 or 112, you usually float the tang, as the rear screw is far forward. Occasionally, you run into one where it shoots better with the tang in contact, but that's rare.

Another way to put it: Bedding only lets you secure the action to the stock without stressing the action.

 

[NesikaChad]

I just finished up a Savage build. Just a little 22-250AI for taking care of the waskally coyotes around here.

In my case the cst furnished the stock. It was a preinletted/pillared deal made by "someone" (don't know who). The trigger location felt wrong to me so i pulled the pillars and filled the thing with glass and started over.

I bedded the entire action and then did my usual whittling afterward to make room for the trigger and floor metal. The rear screw is in front of the trigger so the back half of the action essentially hangs in space. Especially after having to hog out so much stuff to make room for the accu trigger.

It came out well and the rifle shoots just fine. I think the most important part to pay attention to is just using good fundamental bedding practices like ensuring the action sits in a tension free environment while the resin cures.

Hope this helped.

C

 

[Hal]

Chad

I like your stock holding fixtures. What type of bedding compound do you use when bedding an action ?

Hal

 

[NesikaChad]

My fixtures seem to work well for how I do this stuff. The one I have for work on the top side of the stock uses a pair of Kurt vises. Overkill probably but it sure makes life simple and easy for me. (I like a drama free work environment whenever possible! )

Hal, honestly what I use for bedding isn't nearly as important as how it's used. The trick is to keep as little air out of the mix as possible at all stages of the game. It's easy to get air into bedding, it's a biche to get rid of it.

HEAT in moderate dosages and careful application can be a real plus. (that's a BIG, BIG, BIG hint)

I encourage everyone to experiment and once they find a product they like, STICK TO IT religiously.

Desirable traits for any resin used to bed an action to a stock:

1. Long open clamp time
2. Minimal shrinkage (1-2 percent)
3. High tolerance to acids/alkalies
4. High shore hardness once cured
5. High compressive strength
6. High tolerance to shear
7. NO ferrous metal used as a filler (it'll rust!)
8. A viscosity that allows it to flow well into features yet doesn't run like water.


Find that and your golden! Good luck.

C