Basic, basic bedding questions.

M

model14

Guest
Please explain why bedding the action improves accuracy.
Please explain why pillar bedding is better than just bedding, or are you doing both; especially the part about the screws not touching the pillar except at the head.
I know this is really simple stuff, so be kind to me.:eek:
 
The purpose of bedding is to allow the action to lay in the stock relatively stress free when the guard screws are tightened. Whether the bedding is stress free or not is checked with a dial indicator between the barrel and forend. I consider .002" movement or less between the barrel and forend to be a stress free bedding job. If it moves more than that when the guard screws are loosened one at a time, then the bedding isn't what I consider stress free.

The purpose of pillars is to prevent the bedding from being ruined by overzealous tightening of the guard screws.
 
A lot of the details of a proper bedding job have been learned by trial and error, and passed around. Often, we know that a thing works, and have a theory about why, proof is harder to come by.

One of the main components of accuracy is consistency, from shot to shot. Without some form of bedding, the barreled action will shift around minutely from shot to shot, resulting in inconsistent vibration patterns.

Pillars are there for two reasons, first to keep the bedding from being distorted by the action screws being tightened, and also to allow higher screw settings, which may be beneficial to accuracy. Without pillars, depending on the material that the stock is made of, action screws may only be tightened to about half (or less) of the torque that is usable with pillars. This is particularly important for actions that have minimal bedding area, to create sufficient friction between action and stock for a stable joint.

As to the matter of action screw contact, I can tell you from repeated personal experience that this is the case. The answer as to why could become over long for this format. I have fixed more than one bedding job for a friend by simply opening the screw holes in the stock to eliminate contact. The difference in accuracy has always been quite evident.
 
...As to the matter of action screw contact, I can tell you from repeated personal experience that this is the case. The answer as to why could become over long for this format. I have fixed more than one bedding job for a friend by simply opening the screw holes in the stock to eliminate contact. The difference in accuracy has always been quite evident.

The first stock that I did where it was obvious that opening up the guard screw holes made a difference was in a stock similar to a CPS skeleton aluminum BR stock that I had made out of Goncalo Alves. The pillars for the stock were only about 3/8" tall and I made them with 1/4" through holes since they were so short. I bedded a Panda to the stock. The bedding job was good and stress free, but the rifle wouldn't shoot well. I drilled out the three pillars from 1/4" to 5/16" and the rifle came alive. Opening up the pillars was the only thing that was different. I was using flat head cap screws with about 1/2" heads so was able to drill completely through the pillars. Ever since then, I always drill out the screw holes to 5/16". More clearance won't hurt anything, but depends upon the diameter of the heads on your screws.

I believe what happens when there is not much clearance the guard screws start taking up some of the shock of recoil and don't let the recoil lug or tang (if you're using the tang for a lug) work as the recoil lug.
 
As soon as my new barrel is installed I will be pillar bedding the action and the first 3 inches of the barrel (30" Heavy Varmit taper, 6.5mm). Thanks for giving me a good understanding of why I need to do this.
 
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