L
L.G
Guest
Hey guys, I have been trying to remove old base I got 2 screws out the allen wrench is slipping on the other 2 any help would be appreciated i do not think they have loctite on them the size is 3/32 thanks.
This may help. Take a flat tip punch of about 3/16" and use it to "close up" the wallowed socket in the top of the screw. It you need to tap your allen wrench back into the screw socket, so much the better. Take a 3/32 allen apex ( the tip that is used with a separate screwdriver type handle) and either put a 1/4" box end wrench over it or clamp it with vice grips. With the rifle secure in a rifle vise or cradle. insert the apex into the screw and use a small hammer to tap the back of the apex as you turn the screw to loosen it. This method or something similar has almost never failed me. If the socket in the screw cap is just too rounded out to get this to work, a small screw extractor may be used in a similar manner.
Scott Roeder
Scott Roeder
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Kent Owens
Well-known member
I've removed several like Fred J said. I use a Torx bit just bigger that the allen size and drive it into the screw, then put a screwdriver on the bit and turn it out. So far, it has always worked on monkeyed up base screws. Of course this ruins it, so you have to replace it.
D
Dennis Sorensen
Guest
A bit in a driver and tap on the driver while turning often will 'break' it loose... but if the head is stripped just drill it away and lift the base off the remaining stubs...
On the tapping thing...... it works. It works because the hammering or tapping action actually drives the shaft of the screw into the hole momentarily which disengages the threads. The tapping action temporarily "lifts" or separates the surfaces of the inclined plane which is the screw threads.
SOOOO, for it to work it's best that the allen bit be bottomed in the hole, bearing directly on the shank. Then, even gentle pressure coupled with the tapping will let the screw back out. As long as the screw shank's not bottomed in the hole.
On a really buggered one I've degreased and epoxied the bit into place w/JB Weld. For this process I clamp the bit in place tightly overnight using vise grips. I believe that this helps keep from breaking the epoxy bond when tapping.
On this "inclined plane" note..... most folks would assume that "if you break the head off leaving nothing but the flush stub in the hole, YOU'RE SCREWED!!"
Not true
in fact this disengages the pressure on the inclined plane.
With the head gone the shank is just floating in the threaded hole! Tap it gently.....hit it with penetrating oil..... this is one place where Kroil works because the screw shank is relaxed, there's play between the surfaces. Then you can most often slot it and walk it out with minor screwdriver pressure.
This doesn't really apply to gun screws since the root cause is generally rust but I've found it to be interesting to know. Removing busted exhaust studs has been made less stressful for me since I thought this tidbit through.
And, in any case, if someone put the wrong screw into a hole and bottomed it out and THEN busted it off. You ARE screwed. Now the plane surfaces are loaded and no way to turn it.
al
SOOOO, for it to work it's best that the allen bit be bottomed in the hole, bearing directly on the shank. Then, even gentle pressure coupled with the tapping will let the screw back out. As long as the screw shank's not bottomed in the hole.
On a really buggered one I've degreased and epoxied the bit into place w/JB Weld. For this process I clamp the bit in place tightly overnight using vise grips. I believe that this helps keep from breaking the epoxy bond when tapping.
On this "inclined plane" note..... most folks would assume that "if you break the head off leaving nothing but the flush stub in the hole, YOU'RE SCREWED!!"
Not true
in fact this disengages the pressure on the inclined plane.With the head gone the shank is just floating in the threaded hole! Tap it gently.....hit it with penetrating oil..... this is one place where Kroil works because the screw shank is relaxed, there's play between the surfaces. Then you can most often slot it and walk it out with minor screwdriver pressure.
This doesn't really apply to gun screws since the root cause is generally rust but I've found it to be interesting to know. Removing busted exhaust studs has been made less stressful for me since I thought this tidbit through.
And, in any case, if someone put the wrong screw into a hole and bottomed it out and THEN busted it off. You ARE screwed.
Now the plane surfaces are loaded and no way to turn it.al
L
L.G
Guest
Thanks Guys, I am on the way to my buddys he has a milling machine. I called him and he said he had applied a dab of finger nail polish to the screws again thanks for info.