barrel thread?

J

JDR

Guest
how tight do we fit the reciever to the barrel?do we fit it so the reciever turns on by hand but very snug or do we give it just a little room , maybe a slight movement when the reciever is about half screwed on. thanks jerry
 
I feel little loose is better than too tight... but I like to thread as tight as I can but I want to be able to screw it all the way on by hand...

V threads will self align when tightened up.
 
Some gunsmith glue the barrel to the receiver with Loctite.
Do you think there is any advantage of doing this ?
 
ARMECA said:
Some gunsmith glue the barrel to the receiver with Loctite.
Do you think there is any advantage of doing this ?
Click to expand...

On a rimfire barrel that is not threaded this works well...

On a threaded center fire barrel that is correctly fitted I don't think it would add any advantage...but it also would not harm accuracy.

I don't know if it would help a poorly threaded barrel... I guess if it was not torqued tight, the Locite would lock it in place...
 
JDR

You don't say what category of action. BR or hunting. You can get away with tighter fitting threads on custom BR action. We're paying for everything to be concentric and square. In theory you shouldn't have any issues getting the two shoulders to square up. On hunting actons, even those that have been trued, looser is better. The threads are just a way to attach the barrel to the action. To tight and the shoulders may not square up. I've galled two barrels in BAT actions. It's a sickening feelings when you feel them grab. Always and I mean always turn the diameter of the barrel shank at least .005" undersize. There is no such thing as a perfect V thread. All inserts have some radius on them. As you have probably figured out by now I like to be on the loose side rather than tight. Loose has never caused me one problem but to tight is another matter.

Dave
 
Tad loose .005 is good ...

It's a sickening feelings when you feel them grab. Always and I mean always turn the diameter of the barrel shank at least .005" undersize.

Oh boy this is REAL GOOD ADVICE!

Loose has never caused me one problem but to tight is another matter.

Me as well!

cale
 
Dave Tooley said:
JDR

I've galled two barrels in BAT actions. It's a sickening feelings when you feel them grab. Always and I mean always turn the diameter of the barrel shank at least .005" undersize.

Dave
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Ouch, Dave, that would be a sickening feeling, especially if it were a customers action.

The only time that I have seen galled action/barrel threads are when a gunsmith missed the little ribbon of thread sliver that sometimes developes at the start of a thread cut, he didnt remove it with the usual chamfer cut, and the sliver got wedge between the action and barrel half way while screwing the 2 together. Made a hell of mess, very difficult to separate the barrel and action. Took .020" of clean up cuts and still had some bung marks.

How did you fix the Bats?..........................Don
 
I switched over to Kennametal Full Profile Laydown Threading inserts awhile ago and I really like them. I turn the barrel shank to size or maybe .001 or .002 oversize, cut the thread with the compound set at 29 1/2 degrees using the flank feed method. After I have a full profile thread and kissed it with a wire brush I use the crossslide for a radial feed method and cut the thread to final depth as determined by threading on the action. When I true an action I use the same products for the internal thread but just use the radial feed method until the tread cleans up or is .010 oversize whichever comes last. I like the action to screw on smoothly with just a slight touch of clearance in the thread so things can square up between the barrel shoulder and action face. USE ANTI- SEIZE when trying the action on the barrel. By using full profile inserts you get a proper root and crest radius as well as correct flank or pitch diameters so you can have excellent repeatability with thread wires. The drawback to all of this is that you must stock internal and external inserts for each thread pitch that you cut. The tool holders are proprietary to the manufacture as are the shims but the tool holders cover enough range that you only need one internal and one external. The shims that came standard with my tool holders were correct for 16 and 18 threads per inch with a major thread diameter in the range of most barrel shanks.

Nic.
 
Use UNTI-SIEZE and

Turn the barrel in "AS SLOWLY AS POSSIBLE" and you won't have the to worry about the "sickly feeling" even with a tight barrel thread. Just make sure that the barrel thread is NOT OVERSIZED.

Shoot better
Peter
 
I don't know Peter... my experience is if it galls it galls.. regardless of speed.

I haven't stuck a rebarrel but I had a factory stainless Browning A bolt gall when removing the factory barrel... it turned off about 1 thread and then dug in and ripped the threads all to hell. I had to re thread the action larger... Speed was not a factor...
 
Dennis Sorensen said:
I don't know Peter... my experience is if it galls it galls.. regardless of speed.

I haven't stuck a rebarrel but I had a factory stainless Browning A bolt gall when removing the factory barrel... it turned off about 1 thread and then dug in and ripped the threads all to hell. I had to re thread the action larger... Speed was not a factor...
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Dennis, I removed a new 700 ss barrel the other day, and it was ok, but I was terrified.

Any tips on preventing galling on initial removal with the 700's?

Ben
 
Bnhpr said:
Dennis, I removed a new 700 ss barrel the other day, and it was ok, but I was terrified.

Any tips on preventing galling on initial removal with the 700's?

Ben
Click to expand...

I have never encountered a problem with 700's and I have removed hundreds of them ... some feel tight but it has always been the Loctite that Remington has often used.
 
Ben

Bnhpr said:
Dennis, I removed a new 700 ss barrel the other day, and it was ok, but I was terrified.

Any tips on preventing galling on initial removal with the 700's?

Ben
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So you should be, I've never "cooked" one yet, but there is always a real possibility.

I always make sure that the thread is absulutely square and I do spend a fair bit of time on the "squaring off" the carbide insert. One off course can run out of luck very quickly if the other matching thread is off square.

As a habit from my "toolmaking days" I always screw any SS very slowly with an Anti-seize, so far, I was always lucky, even if I do all my threads very tight.

I hate SS actions and barrels just for this very reason. I've never owned a SS action, and I refuse to own one - ever.

Shoot better
Peter
 
Peter

I have a long history of galling stainless issues in my professional career, that being oil and gas industry, specifically subsea equipment, and severe environment hydraulic components.

Most equipment we have no choice in material selection, so we do the best we can. The worst I've ever dealt with was a 30 meter well pump shaft in 4 meter screw together sections, monel, if I remember. 2 of 3 sections galled whilst trying to disassemble. The manufacturer considered this "normal", but did not give us a break on the $80,000 re-machining fee.

There is a yellow paste that we've used, I know it has moly disulf in it, I'll try to find out what it is called, but it helps quite a bit.

Even it is futile, if the threads are not cut properly, as you mentioned.

I'm working with a Norwegian company that has a coating process for stainless components that so far, is working really well in preventing galling.

As far as steel actions go, i agree, because I'm a form follows function person in my way of thinking. But, most people, are quite hung up on the aesthetics.

Is there any practical way of bluing a stainless barrel?

Ben
 
Bluing a stainless barrel?

You can have a Stainless Barrel treated so it looks like the black oxide that is prevalent today. It has been my experience that the process will make the bore and chamber very rough and it affected accuracy in a negative way. I’m of the opinion that a perfectly good barrel was ruined for sake of esthetics. As I remember it was expensive to have done and I’ve only done it once. There are some other products available that are surface treatments more like paint that you might look into. I’ve seen some camouflage jobs that looked pretty good and seemed like they had decent durability. I personally have zero experience with those products.

Nic.
 
Why would you blue the chamber and bore? that's ridiculous.

Exterior blue, not paint, epoxy, magic marker etc.
 
A statement ???

Bnhpr said:
Is there any practical way of bluing a stainless barrel?

Ben
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Ben

I'm not quiet sure if this is a question for me to be answered, or just a part of your statement.

If it's a question for me, I have absolutely no idea whatsoever as I wouldn't even dream of something like that. I'm all for facts and figures, function, reliability, but never for esthetics, looks and image.

Shoot better
Peter
 
Not ridiculous but a fact of life

Physics dictate that if you plug both ends of a barrel and put said barrel in a tank of bluing salts at 290 degrees said air will expand and blow out the plugs and spray some of the hot salts out of the tank and onto the donkey that tried it. The bluing salts run into the bore and chamber and guess what they get blued. If you can change the thermo dynamic physics of heating then you are a better man than me Grasshopper. I prefer to play safe and not even think of plugging the barrel.

Plugs out,
Nic.
 
Hot bluing ... if you are bluing a barrel, it gets done inside and out... it has no effect whatever on accuracy... it would be a lot of work and considerably dangerous to try and hot blue only the outside of a barrel.
 
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