Barrel Stamping

R

rbstallings

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I have just finished a .308 Win, and I would like the caliber stamped on the barrel. I know there are tools available for this. Does anybody have any recommended tools/one's to avoid? I'm trying to get it so that it doesn't have any misalignments.
 
It takes a bit of practice to hand stamp. I tape a piece of steel measuring tape on the barrel and use the edge of it to align each stamp. As I am right handed and right eyed I stamp from right to left sighting down the right edge of the stamp to align the spacing.

caliberstamp-0.jpg
 
Quality stamp sets are really hard to find. Industry seldom uses them nowadays and the best ones available a few years ago seem to have disapeared from the market. Young Brothers are the most common and they work ok but need some prep work using a pedestal grinder. Practice on a scrap barrel or piece of stock and when you go to your new barrel, double check your stamp to make sure you have it oriented correctly before you strike. There is a technique of rocking the stamp to follow the radius of the barrel and striking several times to get the numbers to impress completely, and there are some magazine articles out there that show the method pretty well. Practice is the key!

Scott Roeder
 
Thanks for the info. Is there any other method? Machine shop with CNC (as I don't readily have access to CNC)?
 
SGS said:
Quality stamp sets are really hard to find. Industry seldom uses them nowadays and the best ones available a few years ago seem to have disapeared from the market. Young Brothers are the most common and they work ok but need some prep work using a pedestal grinder. Practice on a scrap barrel or piece of stock and when you go to your new barrel, double check your stamp to make sure you have it oriented correctly before you strike. There is a technique of rocking the stamp to follow the radius of the barrel and striking several times to get the numbers to impress completely, and there are some magazine articles out there that show the method pretty well. Practice is the key!

Scott Roeder
Click to expand...
Mr. Roeder;
Do you by chance know how stamps were made during the 1940s and 50s? I posted this question on Practical Machinist forum also..I am assuming engraved by hand, and then hardened.. but I really don't know.. It's for a law enforcement issue..I'd like to be correct..:)
That's for your help..
Jerry
 
i cant speak for the 40's and 50's, but ive seen the photo's in a book of winchesters stamps from the 1890's-1920's. they were hand cut stamps , and were replaced as they wore out.
 
There are several around that are hand cutting touch mark stamps, and one gentleman that posts at PM has hand cut stamps to replace missing pieces from an old set, but I don't recall that even he made a complete set, that's pretty ambitious, particularly to reproduce a complicated font.

The good longrifle builders simply chase their signature and any other info they want into the barrel with a graver and hammer.
 
Fellas,

I'm getting ready to order a set of the Young Bros. hand finished, most likely in 3/32 size.
1/16 just seems a little small appearance wise, although they might be easier to get a good imprint with. I just like the look of a 3/32 letter better even though it might be a bit harder to get a good looking imprint but I'm willing to practice.

Any comments on letter size?

Bob
 
I have stampls for three calibers, 308 win, 223Rem, and 22-250. They were all custom made a while ago and I used them a lot. They are still sharp and like new. Since I got my Hermes I no longer need them. I think I paid about $35 apiece for them and if anyone neds one, let me entertain an offer. I also have one with my name on it but I doublt anyone would like to stamp my name on their barrel.

Jim
 
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rbstallings said:
I have just finished a .308 Win, and I would like the caliber stamped on the barrel. I know there are tools available for this. Does anybody have any recommended tools/one's to avoid? I'm trying to get it so that it doesn't have any misalignments.
Click to expand...


Stamping can be 'ok' if you do it perfectly, but I prefer to have my barrels engraved as I feel it gives a much better and more professional finish. Also no stress induced into the steel surface in the process.

You could have your local engraver do it for you?

Or, if you are doing alot of barrels look at buying an old pantograph engraving machine. I bought one cheap 6 or 7 years ago as most of the engraving shops now run computer controlled machines. Get a set of letter/number stencils made up in the font/style of lettering you want and you are good to go.

Cheers,

Dean.
 
zp3design said:
Fellas,

I'm getting ready to order a set of the Young Bros. hand finished, most likely in 3/32 size.
1/16 just seems a little small appearance wise, although they might be easier to get a good imprint with. I just like the look of a 3/32 letter better even though it might be a bit harder to get a good looking imprint but I'm willing to practice.

Any comments on letter size?

Bob
Click to expand...

3/32 would look good. Mine are 1/16... sometimes I wish I had both sets.
 
Jerry Keefer said:
Mr. Roeder;
Do you by chance know how stamps were made during the 1940s and 50s? I posted this question on Practical Machinist forum also..I am assuming engraved by hand, and then hardened.. but I really don't know.. It's for a law enforcement issue..I'd like to be correct..:)
That's for your help..
Jerry
Click to expand...

I would have have answered sooner, but I was off for a long weekend at the Unaka match. I honestly have never seen how they used to be made. I have three sets of Young brothers and I needed to hand grind extra material from around the numbers on all of them. I did notice that the Wheeler Engineering set looks like it is already ground close, but that's just from internet photos.

Scott Roeder
 
Brownells do a couple of stamping guides which will take the guess work out of alignemnt.

Ian.
 
Dennis

Thats a very nice,clean looking stamp job. I've seen a few that didn't turn out as well.

Hal
 
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