Barrel block project gluing pillars in questions

J

Jason Shore

Guest
A little project of mine.I am up to the stage of gluing the pillars in.
From the pictures what parts would you use the release agent on.Would you put it on the milled inlet section of the stock,where the block sits?
What about on the bottom/underside of the stock where the pillars mount flush in case some comes out of the bottom ?
Any other area's that you would use the release agent ?
I am using JB weld
IMG_7249edit1.jpg


IMG_7253no5.jpg


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No10.jpg

All barrel block parts
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Any imput appreciated
Thanks Jason
 
none

I'd glue the bottom half of the block and the pillars into the stock so would use no release agent at all. Carefully tape anything you don't want epoxy on and once its all set in place wipe off the squeeze-out.
 
henrya said:
I'd glue the bottom half of the block and the pillars into the stock so would use no release agent at all. Carefully tape anything you don't want epoxy on and once its all set in place wipe off the squeeze-out.
Click to expand...

Agree!

And/if you need to remove it in the future, use the same removal techniques as a glued in action= hot iron on the block until the epoxy releases and barrel block pops off........................Don
 
henrya said:
I'd glue the bottom half of the block and the pillars into the stock so would use no release agent at all. Carefully tape anything you don't want epoxy on and once its all set in place wipe off the squeeze-out.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the replys and help guys
would it matter if the inlet has been sealed ? I can sand it back to raw laminate if it makes a differance
Jason
 
Jason Shore said:
Thanks for the replys and help guys
would it matter if the inlet has been sealed ? I can sand it back to raw laminate if it makes a differance
Jason
Click to expand...

Jason, I would sand it and use bedding epoxy like Devcon or Acraglass.................Don
 
Don said:
Jason, I would sand it and use bedding epoxy like Devcon or Acraglass.................Don
Click to expand...

Would the Devcon or acraglass act as a sealing agent once dried ?
With the Devcon do you recommend the aluminum puty type or the plastic steel 10110 ?

.........sorry for all the questions ,Just trying to learn and cover all bases

Thanks Jason
 
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yep sand it

Sand the wood, then put on a thin coat of un-thickened Acraglass. This will penetrate into the wood a bit to make a stronger bond. Then mix up some Acraglass with the flocking to thicken it to about peanut butter consistency. This will stay in place and give 100% contact between the wood and aluminum block.

I will assume that you have carefully dry fitted the whole assembly.
 
henrya said:
Sand the wood, then put on a thin coat of un-thickened Acraglass. This will penetrate into the wood a bit to make a stronger bond. Then mix up some Acraglass with the flocking to thicken it to about peanut butter consistency. This will stay in place and give 100% contact between the wood and aluminum block.

I will assume that you have carefully dry fitted the whole assembly.
Click to expand...
Yes I have dry fitted the assembly.I am leaning towards using the Davcon , due to the colour.
Will the Davcon go on in a similar way to the acraglass ? Does it have similar properties (sp) holding ,sealing etc as the acraglass ? Is acraglass more of a expoxy than Davcon ? Does it stick good to wood and laminated timber?
Thanks Jason
 
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Laminated wood stocks like your's contain about as much glue as they do wood. Still, a little bit of penetration by the epoxy will help with bonding. That's why I suggested the thin Acraglas. You may get a slightly better bond due to the penetration. Then mix in some thickener to a consistency about as thick as peanut butter. This will help keep it from running out of the joint.

Given the surface area you are working with and the two big pillars with screws I can't swear either Acraglas or Devcon will be significantly better than the other. But I'd pick thinner over thicker for the bond to the wood.

Make sure everything is clean before you start. Use acetone or a similar solvent to clean the metal and then don't touch the area you are gluing after its clean.

Coat the stock and the metal parts with whatever adhesive you choose and then stick them together.

Plan the whole procedure out and keep it in order so you don't end up with a mess. Think it through, then do it.
 
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Jason, I like everything that Henrya has to say about his
Acraglas method and would go that route if possible.

Devcon will also do just fine and I would prefer using the Devcon aluminum putty over the liquid or steel versions, advantage being that you dont have to thicken it and can thin it without additives by simply applying moderate heat to the already mixed batch using a simple hair dryer or shop heat gun, and still have 30-45 minutes cure time to apply the material and fit the parts........................Don
 
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Thanks for the reply and help guys
Much appreciated
Jason
 
Don said:
Jason, looks very good, what method did you use to bed the barrel block, any troubles?.....................Don
Click to expand...

Don
The block and pillars are glued in,Had no troubles
Jason
 
Jason...

Did you do a series of targets before Barrel/Block and after Barrel/Block..
was there a noticeable improvement?
John
:)
 
Spott3r said:
Did you do a series of targets before Barrel/Block and after Barrel/Block..
was there a noticeable improvement?
John
:)
Click to expand...

John
No didnt have a chance, It has not been shoot yet, indoor range this week.I purchased the action/barrel brand new and decided to do this to it.It will be interested how it shoots
Jason
 
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