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barrel block pix for lynn
- Thread starter alinwa
- Start date
Alinwa and GunsRosesSmith
Al
Thank You for posting the pictures.
Guns
If you look at the pictures you can see where the 0-Rings left a line in the top of the barrel block.The reason you don't see the line in the bottom is every time you swap out barrels they aren't exactly 1.450 in diameter so I add some epoxy to the existing J-B Weld after sanding it just to roughen it up a bit.
I was bedding the blocks not for better grip or alignment but to keep the barrel heat more uniform.The stock weighs 44 pounds as show and I didn't want a short section of the barrel being heat sinked.
Lynn
Al
Thank You for posting the pictures.
Guns
If you look at the pictures you can see where the 0-Rings left a line in the top of the barrel block.The reason you don't see the line in the bottom is every time you swap out barrels they aren't exactly 1.450 in diameter so I add some epoxy to the existing J-B Weld after sanding it just to roughen it up a bit.
I was bedding the blocks not for better grip or alignment but to keep the barrel heat more uniform.The stock weighs 44 pounds as show and I didn't want a short section of the barrel being heat sinked.
Lynn
J
jimfinn
Guest
My First Time!!!!
Hi Lynn,
Thanks for the photos and for Al posting them. I will be getting a 30"+ straight 1.2" from chamber to muzzle Kreiger barrel chambered for 6mmBR threaded for a Remington action, a barrel block , and a Lee Six long-range stock. The stock needs to be inletted for the barrel block. It looks like you either inleted the block into your stock, or built it right into your stock. The guy I am buying it from said that the action (in my case a trued Model Seven with a Jewel trigger) should be floated and not touching the stock at all. So the only thing keeping things from moving will be the pressure or glue from the block.
I really like your O-ring method. The barrel and block will be glued together when I get them, but I will almost assuredly have to rotate the barrel on the block to get my action level relative to the stock. My question is, when you "glue" your barrels in using (if I remember right) a wax release agent, are you then able to unbolt the block and lift the barrel out and put it back in without having to re-glue it? And if so, what sort of torque do you put on the bolts? I have never had a rifle like this and I don't know anyone in Alaska with a rig like it to look at. Is there somewhere of someone that I can get step by step instructions on setting one up?
Thanks
Jim
Hi Lynn,
Thanks for the photos and for Al posting them. I will be getting a 30"+ straight 1.2" from chamber to muzzle Kreiger barrel chambered for 6mmBR threaded for a Remington action, a barrel block , and a Lee Six long-range stock. The stock needs to be inletted for the barrel block. It looks like you either inleted the block into your stock, or built it right into your stock. The guy I am buying it from said that the action (in my case a trued Model Seven with a Jewel trigger) should be floated and not touching the stock at all. So the only thing keeping things from moving will be the pressure or glue from the block.
I really like your O-ring method. The barrel and block will be glued together when I get them, but I will almost assuredly have to rotate the barrel on the block to get my action level relative to the stock. My question is, when you "glue" your barrels in using (if I remember right) a wax release agent, are you then able to unbolt the block and lift the barrel out and put it back in without having to re-glue it? And if so, what sort of torque do you put on the bolts? I have never had a rifle like this and I don't know anyone in Alaska with a rig like it to look at. Is there somewhere of someone that I can get step by step instructions on setting one up?
Thanks
Jim
Jimfinn
Jim
The barrel block in the picture is part of the stock and only the top half comes off.You can swap out the barreled action in 2 minutes or less without having to re-do the bedding.
I use Carnuba Car Wax or Turtle Wax as a release agent because it leaves a smooth finish.
The rifle in the above pictures is a 65 pound 6BR.
It sounds like you are bulding a lightgun and for that the split clamping type blocks work very well.You bore the hole 0.001 larger than the barrels diameter and then cut a lengthwise slit down one side of the barrel block.The tightening screws pinch the two halves together holding the barrel from moving.
To look at one go to Bill Shehanes website and in the Accessories Section he has a picture.
Lynn
Jim
The barrel block in the picture is part of the stock and only the top half comes off.You can swap out the barreled action in 2 minutes or less without having to re-do the bedding.
I use Carnuba Car Wax or Turtle Wax as a release agent because it leaves a smooth finish.
The rifle in the above pictures is a 65 pound 6BR.
It sounds like you are bulding a lightgun and for that the split clamping type blocks work very well.You bore the hole 0.001 larger than the barrels diameter and then cut a lengthwise slit down one side of the barrel block.The tightening screws pinch the two halves together holding the barrel from moving.
To look at one go to Bill Shehanes website and in the Accessories Section he has a picture.
Lynn
J
jimfinn
Guest
Thanks Lynn,
I just sent of the payment for the barrel and block so I hope to have them within two weeks. I am looking forward to working on this and trying out the 6mmBR cartridge. Working on stocks, etc. is a great pastime for the cold Alaskan winters.
Jim
I just sent of the payment for the barrel and block so I hope to have them within two weeks. I am looking forward to working on this and trying out the 6mmBR cartridge. Working on stocks, etc. is a great pastime for the cold Alaskan winters.
Jim
Jimfinn
Jim
I don't do much cold weather shooting but when you get that 6BR try 30.0-30.5 grains of Varget with a CCI 450 Magnum primer and seat your bullets long enough so closing the bolt slides them back into the case a thousanth or two and let us know how it shoots.
Lynn
Jim
I don't do much cold weather shooting but when you get that 6BR try 30.0-30.5 grains of Varget with a CCI 450 Magnum primer and seat your bullets long enough so closing the bolt slides them back into the case a thousanth or two and let us know how it shoots.
Lynn
B
Big Al
Guest
Jim: My question is, where will you find 600/1,000 yard range to fire it on? I think you have a great project, but where did you find a place to test drive it?
J
jimfinn
Guest
Al,
As you you know Birchwood only goes to 300 meters. Hopefully the guys out in Telkeetna will get the 600 and 1000 yard range going this year. I know they have made some progress but I'm not sure just how much.
If they do I'll probably take some weekends and go up to camp, shoot, and reload.
Jim
As you you know Birchwood only goes to 300 meters. Hopefully the guys out in Telkeetna will get the 600 and 1000 yard range going this year. I know they have made some progress but I'm not sure just how much.
If they do I'll probably take some weekends and go up to camp, shoot, and reload.
Jim
B
Big Al
Guest
Al,
As you you know Birchwood only goes to 300 meters. Hopefully the guys out in Telkeetna will get the 600 and 1000 yard range going this year. I know they have made some progress but I'm not sure just how much.
If they do I'll probably take some weekends and go up to camp, shoot, and reload.
Jim
I didn't know it was that close to being done. I'm not sure I could see that far even through a spotting scope any more. But I would like to try. Are they building benches too? I've thought for years that it's nuts the only ranges available to the public only go to 300 yards, without and act of GOD and the U.S.Army.
Soon Alaska will be caught up with the lower 48! Good news, indeed.
J
jimfinn
Guest
Al,
I really don't know any specifics about it and can't remember what group (the Denali Rams maybe?) that is doing it. I know they did some shooting there last year and I know one or two guys who have gone up there to help with clear and setting things up. I want to get off my butt this year and see if I can pitch in also.
Jim
I really don't know any specifics about it and can't remember what group (the Denali Rams maybe?) that is doing it. I know they did some shooting there last year and I know one or two guys who have gone up there to help with clear and setting things up. I want to get off my butt this year and see if I can pitch in also.
Jim
B
Big Al
Guest
I would sure like to lend a hand if they do some benches. I hope if they do, they will be concrete. Cinder block filled with concrete for legs and concrete tops would be heaven. Concrete isolation pads would be the best way to reach heaven in the permafrost.
I have something to look forward to in this mild weather.
I have something to look forward to in this mild weather.
Big Al
Al
If you guys decide to build some concrete benches for your range cinder blocks work great on the front.
On the rear leg they make round tubes you fill with concrete and they call them something that sounds like Sonna Tubes.I know the spelling is wrong but thats what it sounds like.
If you use the round tubes you end up with more leg room under the rear of the bench and they scuff up your legs and pants like a cinder block would.I have no idea what they cost but they work real well.
Lynn
Al
If you guys decide to build some concrete benches for your range cinder blocks work great on the front.
On the rear leg they make round tubes you fill with concrete and they call them something that sounds like Sonna Tubes.I know the spelling is wrong but thats what it sounds like.
If you use the round tubes you end up with more leg room under the rear of the bench and they scuff up your legs and pants like a cinder block would.I have no idea what they cost but they work real well.
Lynn
B
Big Al
Guest
I agree with you totally Lynn. The suna, sona tubes are the right way to go.
I'm thinking that a guy could do all the re bar work at home to fit inside the tubes, leaving six to eight inches of bar out on each end for the tie in to the top and bottom re bar.
The problem here is the permafrost. Once the ground is uncovered then the ice in the ground starts to thaw from the heat. There goes any chance to keep the bench level over time, as the ground thaws each fall things are going to change.
The only solution I have come up with is to tie it all together so the ends of the isolation pad can be propped up for leveling later on. One big uni-pour for everything. I can't even imagine a do it yourself cement mixer that would be big enough with a gasoline powered engine that would do the job.
I'm thinking that a guy could do all the re bar work at home to fit inside the tubes, leaving six to eight inches of bar out on each end for the tie in to the top and bottom re bar.
The problem here is the permafrost. Once the ground is uncovered then the ice in the ground starts to thaw from the heat. There goes any chance to keep the bench level over time, as the ground thaws each fall things are going to change.
The only solution I have come up with is to tie it all together so the ends of the isolation pad can be propped up for leveling later on. One big uni-pour for everything. I can't even imagine a do it yourself cement mixer that would be big enough with a gasoline powered engine that would do the job.
J
jimfinn
Guest
Al,
It seems that I can't send you a PM. Send me an e-mail ( jfinn@mtaonline.net ) and I''ll send you a couple of names and contact info for folks involved with that range. You'd be able to find out what is going on, what plans they have, and volunteer your ideas, time, etc. I plan to give them a call at some point as well.
Jim
It seems that I can't send you a PM. Send me an e-mail ( jfinn@mtaonline.net ) and I''ll send you a couple of names and contact info for folks involved with that range. You'd be able to find out what is going on, what plans they have, and volunteer your ideas, time, etc. I plan to give them a call at some point as well.
Jim