barnes banded spitzers

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dano1

Guest
has anyone out there tried these and have you experienced any problems in the brass almost fusing to the barrel do you think i would have this problem using a 140gr spitzer going approx. 3300fps if i do not let the barrel heat up more than warm to the touch and how often would you reccomend cleaning or should just avoid using these altogether:confused:


p.s. using a stainless steel barrel if that makes a difference
 
I've been completely impressed by the 30cal TSX's and TTSX's up to around 3200 w/SS barrels. No fouling probs. They seem to work AND to shoot.

Back in the day they ALL sucked! I din't shoot a Barnes for 20yrs......

al
 
Interesting bullet design.
The French Lebel used a swaged Bronze bullet without problems. I'd been thinking about turning some bullets from Bronze rod stock, I have an old catalog that lists several bronze alloys in various diameters close to bullet sizes. Don't know what these are meant for but the alloys seem to be much like that used by the Lebel bullets.

The bands should act to reduce friction, hadn't thought of that, but the use of standard Bullet molds with lubricant grooves to cast Kirksite Zinc Alloy bullets would have the same effect I suppose, and that doesn't seem to have caused any problems.

PS
p.s. using a stainless steel barrel if that makes a difference
Click to expand...
My guess is that stainless steel barrels might gaul the bullets. Stainless alloys are often less slick than they look. The reason Stainless auto pistols use different alloys to avoid gauling of slide or frame rails. The closer the surface crystals are in size and shape on a microscopic level the more two metal objects will gaul when passing over each other at high speeds.
 
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i plan on using the 140gr spitzer in my 7mm rum (sendero)and 75grspitzers in my 6mm rem.700 these are doing approx.3500fps and it was the people from barnes who said that shooting the banded spitzers from a high velocity rifle is not reccomended. but yet they list load data for these spitzers from every cartridge from the 300 rum down to the 22 centrefires that break the sound barrier a few times

my ceaning routine consists of running a couple of wet patch's(butch's)
let sit about two min.run a dry patch then again with a wet patch then i use a bronze brush about 10 strokes followed with another wet patch then run a couple of dry patch's repeat until clean

i wanted to use the spitzers for paper and the ttsx for hunting
 
I am using Barnes in TTSX in 180 grn 300 SAUM and 125 grn in my Grandson's 30BR. More velocity could contribute to copper fouling. I would shoot it and see.
Butch
 
hi butch i'm more concerned with the brass fouling as the brass being a harder metal and it fusing to the barrel making it next to impossible to remove it's very furstrating as i have loaded about 70 rounds for load development and now i'm not sure if i should use them :confused:
 
Brass would probably not respond to copper solvents that well.
I'd say that if you are already having a fouling problem with a stainless steel barrel then using this bullet would probably not be a good idea.

When the British first tested Cordite with jacketed bullets the copper fouling fused to the bore surface ruining barrels in about 400 rounds. They added Mineral Jelly to the formula to leave a baked on carbon film to prevent copper to steel fusing. I'd suspect that the extra carbon fouling associated with Ball powder might serve to prevent the Brass from fusing to stainless steel, but I really can't say that would be a fact to count on.

Perhaps a moly lube or similar coating.


I've been thinking about the turned Bronze bullet idea.
If the surface were micro etched by a weak acid solution then the bullet could be seasoned with a high temperature lube.

Surely Barnes Bullets has some suggestions for how their bullets should be treated for use in the various newer alloy barrels.
 
that's just it i haven't even tried these things out yet it's a new rifle and i've only shot a box and a half of factory rounds to condition the bore i had loaded 3-1/2 boxes when i learned that shooting these may not be a good idea.so here i am wondering what to do. barnes seem to take forever to get a reply
 
You could try using some............

2 micron graphite, or some Boron Nitride mixed with something like MPro7 to anoint, then burnish into the barrel (like an oil or base prep in the steel), with a couple applications, over some days prior to shooting. Kano Labs also puts out Penephite, which may be of some use to you; then I've seen Lok-eez spoken about here. Some people use some of these preps, some turn up their noses in disdain, but the fact remains, some guys recommend these preps, so they must have some belief that they've seen some positive results. You may want to look into some of these and try them to see if it helps you out any. ;) I also want to try(No, haven't yet) some hBN coated bullets, too. You are considering doing this in a high-capacity case, you may also want to consider postponing that test, in favor of seeing how it responds in your 6MM first, or even a .223. Either of those cartridges will give you the velocity with a standard bullet, then see how the Barnes acts in the .223/6MM, and if favorable, go on to the bigger cartridge.....gives you more excuses to be at the range, too!!! :rolleyes:
 
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first i like to say thank you to everyone who took the time to respond to my questionsand if anyone else has something to add i'm listening well the last thing i want to do is have to pull 3 plus boxes of bullets out of loaded cases there's only so many bullet key chains i can give my wife.but i feel i may have to the more i looked into it it seems as it's the zinc thats in the brass that is the problem i do not know of any solvents that work on zinc although barnes the maker of cr10 claims to work on brass this was also the only solvent i have that mentions removing brass fouling.so i'm trying a little test i've taken 3 bottle caps and in each one i placed a 6mm 75gr banded spitzer and covered one in cr10 , butch's bore cleaner and shooters choice and see what these spitzers look like tomorrow i will report anything worth mentioning.if one does a good job distorting the bullet i may try them in my 6mm first and see how it goes

mr roberts do you have any suggestions on a approx.mix ratio for some 2 micron graphite and some mpro7.how often would you do this also i'm interested in hearing your anoiting and burnishing procedure you can send me a pm if you wish once again thanks to all
 
Tripple Shock and Tipped Tripple Shocks

These are great hunting bullets!! I tried them when they first came out and have used them to take several deer, elk and an Alaskan brown bear.

I'm using them in .338 RUM and .300 RUM. In the .300 RUM, I am pushing the 168 TTSX at just under 3500 fps. Fouling is not any different than any other bullet. Of course you're going to need a cooper solvent to clean with, but that's the nature of high velocity cartridges.
 
Are we talking about the banded solids or the TSX copper hunting bullets?
 
were talkin banded solids and i'm looking into perhaps using a moly coating on these
 
I don't think anyone has had any luck pushing the solids very fast except the bore rider or similar designs. I don't think Moly will get you there. The only way I was able to push them fast was with moly grease. It was just an experiment and far to messy for hunting.

Barnes used to have a blue coating that they put on some of their bullets. I am shooting some VLCs right now and can get 100 fps more velocity than with naked bullets. I don't know what the stuff is, but it might be enough.
 
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