I am working on a custom build and want to use the 5018 trigger I have. I have questions on how this will function. Looking at the attached picture you can see the firing pin will push hook of the catch and force the front of it down to make contact with the link ledge. When you pull the trigger it falls below this edge and allows the firing pin to move forward. The catch is spring loaded and will return to above the link ledge before you release the trigger. The fireing pin can not be pulled behind the hook on the top sear unless I hold the trigger in a pulled position allowing the catch to drop below the link. Should the fireing pin be made to hold down the sear and only allow it to pop up when cocked? This would mean the top sear would be spring loaded against the firing pin and scraping as it went forward. Am I seeing this wrong?
thanks
Is this a rimfire action your building or a centerfire?
Reason I asked is I've installed/converted ALOT (over 100+) of Annie 5018/5022 triggers for use with CF actions. The striker springs on CF guns are quite a bit more "robust" than rimfires. The catch link on a 5018 is harder than woodpecker lips and will last a long time-when it's used as intended. A direct link to the striker on a CF is questionable. One should consider use of a transfer bar arrangement to mitigate the heavy loading. The other part is the trigger will feel like total chit if you apply too much pressure at the sear contact points up front. It's a fairly narrow margin between good feel and good performance/durability.
To get to your specific question. If you put a slight breakaway angle on the trailing edge of your striker it should be fine. It will rub on it slightly but it's not enough to get worked up over. The reset spring for the catch link is pretty easy going. The big thing when setting these up is the amount of rotation the catch link has when it breaks from the sear. It should only rotate about .05-075 "ish" below the sear once everything lets go. When it's beyond that there's usually too much pressure on it and it won't reset properly and it'll feel like crap.
Another (most important! as it deals with safety) way to tell is by slowly gathering up the 1st stage and then letting go. If it doesn't completely reset the sear then there's too much pressure at the catchlink and the geometry needs to be looked at again. What you'll essentially end up with is a two stage that emulates a single stage if you gather up the 1st part of the takeup. (if that makes sense) It'll get your attention real quick if left unchecked. You'll reach for the trigger and be expecting to "climb the stairs" and instead you'll be cleaning your shorts.
Good luck with your project and hope this helped. Great question!!
If you are planning on using it on a centerfire you may want to check with Briley, at one time they made an adapter to use these triggers on Remington pattern actions. If you are using it on a rimfire I wouldn't worry too much about how it works since it is a time proven design that has been used for many years.
Not to tooty my own horn but the one I make has a shooter more in mind than the Briley product. Unless you like destroying an almost $400 trigger with a hacksaw in order to make it work. . .
My adapters are no mods to action and no mods to trigger housing. (a little grinding needed on the catch link but that's it and its affordable to replace) My adapter will also keep the trigger shoe closer to the bottom of the receiver than the Briley. (and mine is all 100% machined bar stock steel, no aluminum!)
Chad, I actually found your site with the adapter and was impressed. The custom build I am doing is actually an Airgun and that is why I have some concern on the function of this trigger. The hammer will actually be what will knock open the valve and if the catch drags on it with pressure it will affect the consistancy of each shots velocity. Airgun's are really getting into the longer distance shooting with exceptional results. Under airgun benchrest you can see some of the Temecula shooter getting 90 shot groups at .340" lately.
thanks for the help.
