Anschutz 2007 / Actions with flat bottom, how should they be bedded ?

D

deffie

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Hi everyone,
today I've got my new toy, an Anschutz 2007 barreled action, ie. CZ bye bye, good morning serious rifle :)

As you may already know this action has a flat bottom and four retaining holes in a rectangular pattern under the action.

What bedding solution do you suggest for this configuration ?

Consider I have access to various tools and CNCs.

The stock will be wood, American walnut.

Four pillars and relative screws ?

A holed specular block of metal glued in the stock ?
Any cushion ?

Thank you :)

Giacomo.
 
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I just got my 2013 yesterday ;):D

Plan A- is a metal stock of some sort.

Plan B- Glue-in using a fiberglass or wood BR stock.

Plan Z- Drill and tap a pair of 1/4-28 holes on the centerline of the action. The 4 holes the factory provides are a problem looking for a solution, not vice versa. The forward hole may need to be just behind the tenon, ie just under the front of the loading tray. This would allow the front of the rec to float.
 
I bedded quite a few Anschutz actions while working for the service center in CO Springs.

Clay it up, tape the sides, and then just use good procedure and practice.

Easy stuff.

Good luck.

C
 
I just got my 2013 yesterday ;):D

Plan A- is a metal stock of some sort.

Plan B- Glue-in using a fiberglass or wood BR stock.

Plan Z- Drill and tap a pair of 1/4-28 holes on the centerline of the action. The 4 holes the factory provides are a problem looking for a solution, not vice versa. The forward hole may need to be just behind the tenon, ie just under the front of the loading tray. This would allow the front of the rec to float.

Why you wouldnt use factory holes ?
We got torque values for those screws and it would be easy to epoxy-glue a holed thick piece of metal in the stock. Whats wrong here ? I heard some preferring round-bottom actions for some reason but cannot understand why; on the other side i see match grade centerfire rifles with flat actions...

Interesting discussion...
 
My thoughts are to go with something proven to work, ie two holes on the centerline. Properly done pillars on the original 4 screws should work just fine.

I am hoping a metal stock will work good. I am happy with the results so far with my Metal Mayhem 30BR Viper.

I am going to shoot it as is for now [ other than working on the cocking ramp to smooth up the bolt lift ]. If it shoots great I am not going to mess with it until it starts acting up :D
 
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After a long night of machining the stock i was using for the CZ, this is the aluminium block installed in the stock to receive the 2007.

The aluminium block was machined in the coupling side to lock with the action, keeping tolerance low.

Any thoughts ?

Giacomo.

P.S Sorry for picture quality, its just my mobile phone :p
 
Its just a matter of personal preference, i bedded my previous rifle and i didnt liked its accuracy in terms of installation precision, now i can put the stock on a surface plate and measure no more than 0.01 mm of difference in every part of the optics mount.

OK I'm somewhat paranoid but i didnt wanted to risk using epoxy resin where the same or better result can be obtained without using it; i saw some centerfire rifles done this way and i liked it, maybe its overkill for a .22 but...why not ?
 
Thanks for those pics. I haven't taken mine out of the stock yet so I didn't know what the bottom of the action looked like. With all the relieving there is no way to put action screws on the center line. It would be interesting to put action screws in the area just behind the rearmost bbl clamp screw. There is a area there where they would go easily. Then leave the clamp section floating as the tang should be.

It would be interesting to put a dial test indicator on the front corner of the clamp section and loosen and tighten the clamp screws and see if there is any deflection.

Mine did shoot pretty good on it's one outing so far. 241 in some crazy wind with the second ammo I tried.
 
My 2013 came in a McMillan stock which had a "t" shaped metal bar embedded in the stock. Alex Sitman @ Masterclass milled out about 1/4" and rebedded with devcon over the metal. The stock came with 4 pillars installed.
The only contact the action has with the stock is on the bottom of the action........the rest of the action is not in contact with the stock, sort of free floated on the sides, a dollar bill will fit between the sides of the action and the stock.
 

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Torque

Hi all, I'm new here but saw this thread and thought I'd share my experience -- and I know the new guys never get any love, so take this FWIW ;).

My annie 2013 was in the metal position stock and strung vertically -- and I had eliminated all the usual suspects, but didn't have a torque wrench for the action screws that went over 36 in-lbs. I wanted to make sure it would shoot before putting more money into the build. So after getting the Weaver 36x in a set of lapped rings on an M-Werks base I turned to the action screws. I sprung for the Gehman torque wrench for the action screws since my little one was not enough. I grabbed an ammo my rifle seemed to like during the first shoot, RWS R-50, and headed to the range. I started at 5NM and worked my way through 9NM in whole increments. My rifle showed a distinct preference for 7 and 8NM, generating ragged-hole 1/4" groups with no stringing. Tighter or looser and I got stringing. So I repeated in .5NM increments from 6.5 to 8.5 and 7 seems to be the sweetspot. This made a HUGE difference for me. Did some more ammo testing and ended up with most 5-shot groups under .3" at 50 yards. Even the cheap stuff shot under .5 aside from the occasional flyer. I had three groups with match ammo that went low to mid .1's, just one tiny oval hole. Before that, best I could manage was about one .2 group out of 10 and most closer to .4" with good match ammo...

Other mods to the gun were firing pin shape a-la Calfee - I was nervous, but figured a new pin wasn't that expensive so WTF? It definitely helped make the groups more consistent and my firing pin dimple now looks like his. Other item was mounting the barrel per Calfee. I used a .043 headspace gauge, rosin on the tenon, and 28 in-lbs of torque on the three barrel clamp screws, and just enough pressure on the extractor alignment center set screw to keep the barrel lined up. Both of these helped measurably, and together with teh action torque is showing great promise.

EDIT: One other point on this particular rifle you might want to check if you have the same metal position stock. The little screws that hold the laminated wood side panels on were too long on mine, and the last screws alongside the action actually protruded enough to touch the sides of the action, which can't be good, so I ground a few threads off the ends of those.

Now I've confirmed it can shoot, so far, so good. Oh, I'm a leftie, so the factory BR stock won't work for me and why I've been testing with the position stock. So just yesterday sent the barreled action off to Kelbly's for a custom bench stock. After he's finished with mine, he should have a pattern, so a simple order for any of you who may want one for your square action annies. I will report back with the stock mod results. I'm noodling over which barrel to buy if the new stock doesn't allow me repeatable groups in the .1's -- I'll settle for high .1's :) -- with the factory barrel...
 
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