Another alinwa-----case life

L

Lucky Shooter A

Guest
Al, you've posted some about getting long case life.

Could you give us your method for this ?

IIRC, you like to have a light crush fit on the case for it's first firing-----minimum working of the brass as goes through it's life of firing and resizing.

What are your thoughts and methods ?

Thanks.

A. Weldy
 
Me, fireform/case design...... for BIG bullets. Liddle soup can shaped BR bullets will tolerate lots of slop. VLD's will not.

#1, a HEAVY crush fit, it needs to resist at least 50ftlb. So heavy that I must heel the bolt closed using both hands and my palm in most cases. GREASE those bolt lugs.
#2, .010/inch body taper and 35 degree shoulder. This can vary but I consider these #s to be optimal.
#3, .030-.060 radius at N/S junction. I'd go to a knife edge but I can't get my reamer guy to do it :)
#4, .0005 to .001 sizing effect at shoulder and .002-.003 at base (.200)
#5, .001-.002 total radial clearance on neck and .005 to .010 gapspace......
#5, I design my reamers from the lot of cases chosen and make chambers shorter than the shortest possible case, WITH the shoulders reset for crush and the ugly crinkle taken off the casemouth. I believe that the casemouth is the first muzzle the bullet sees and I feel cases must be as perfect as physically possible. therefor all of my designs are shorter/smaller than the parent case. I try never to blow a shoulder forward because it's too bloody much work. In many cases where I'm blowing shoulders out wider I must make a fireform chamber with a longer neck...and here it must be stated that fireforming weighs heavily into my choice of parent VS final case. In a perfect world they're all as easy as the 6PPC but really there are very few that well planned. One that's even BETTER than the 6PPC though is the 6X47L as mfgd from 6.5X47L brass. It's as beautiful as the original DAsher (the 22 one, not the 6mm corruption) I got the idea from the Dan Dowling/Al Ashton design, the ORIGINAL design, not the later bastardization....And it shortens so little that it really doesn't need a separate FF chamber...




These spec's are minimal.....you MUST know how to make, maintain and check these cases or they'll grow in length and crimp onto the bullet. Therefore, In my case I often am forced to buy a reamer for making a fireforming chamber, or I ream a neck out longer, or I spec so that my resize reamer has a long neck and works to make a FF chamber...

I make my butts wicked over-sized, like .005 to .007 bigger than the brass but this isn't a sizing issue per se.
Figure out a way to apply minimal lube to necks and lower half of body only, nothing on the shoulder.
NEVER let the sizing die touch down on the shellholder.


There's a lot goes into making cases last long, in fact only about 10-20% of the 6PPC BR guys can do it even with their access to perfect fireforming and maintenance tools but it is perfectly possible. Today I used a set of 338L cases that had been fired 20plus times in other guns to do the workup/tune on this gun. They've never been trimmed. And the bolt FALLS closed......There's so much involved that it's hard to cover all the details but suffice it to say IF YOU'RE TRIMMING EVERY 5-10 RELOADS...... you're not there.

Here's a pic I've posted many times.

6X47L rounds.jpg

These cases have over 75 firings on them now.....they had over 40 at time of pic. They still look the same.

If you're serious enough to actually go for it I can help you with each pitfall and I promise you it IS DOABLE.

Here's a link to an old thread about my 6X47L you might find some useful info.... if not, oh well, don't read :)

http://benchrest.com/archive/index.php/t-58805.html

hth

al
 
Thanks Al

Thanks for the reply. I'm not ignoring you----trying to get my mind wrapped around what you're doing.

Will follow with some questions.

A. Weldy
 
Fat butts ?

After reading this a few times, I think I know what you're doing----except for the fat butts. How do you go about figuring the sizer dimension in the web area ?

I've been reaming my chambers shorter than the Go Gauge and starting new cases with a slight compression fit-----but nowhere as tight as you start yours. I think that the short chambers give me longer case life but haven't kept count and doubt if I'll get into the 75 to 100 range.

I tend to use rounds that Harrell's supports or Redding supplies Type S seaters and body dies for. I usually get bolt click when I don't heed the advice of Dave Kiff and Linwood Harrell.

I'm currently shooting a batch of about 50 Win 223 cases and have fired them a lot but don't know the exact count. I live with the bolt click for now but would like to know how to prevent it with future reamers----and still get good case life. These cases take very little effort to FL resize.

Thanks for the replies.

A. Weldy
 
After reading this a few times, I think I know what you're doing----except for the fat butts. How do you go about figuring the sizer dimension in the web area ?

I've been reaming my chambers shorter than the Go Gauge and starting new cases with a slight compression fit-----but nowhere as tight as you start yours. I think that the short chambers give me longer case life but haven't kept count and doubt if I'll get into the 75 to 100 range.

I tend to use rounds that Harrell's supports or Redding supplies Type S seaters and body dies for. I usually get bolt click when I don't heed the advice of Dave Kiff and Linwood Harrell.

I'm currently shooting a batch of about 50 Win 223 cases and have fired them a lot but don't know the exact count. I live with the bolt click for now but would like to know how to prevent it with future reamers----and still get good case life. These cases take very little effort to FL resize.

Thanks for the replies.

A. Weldy

I measure a batch of cases and spec the reamer to be larger by .xxx amount.

Fat butt ELIMINATES bolt click, period.

I will not live with click......period.

I've had 6BR reamers spec'd clear up to .009 larger then case at butt, I've got reamers at .007 over and .005 over and am currently working with .005 over in .473 sized small primer cases (BR, 6.5X47L, .243/.308 etc...) and .007 over large primer (like 30-06)

The harder you set your initial ff jam the easier it is to get straight, trouble-free cases. I'm going out today to fireform a couple hundred 338L cases. I'll grease the lugs every 10rds. I'm fireforming using only a barreled action, I wear a leather glove to grip the barrel. It's a 1.350 bbl. The cases go in hard enough that I have to grip tightly to close the bolt and I've pretty strong hands.

Cases FALL out.......

And fall back in..... they'll never be tight again.

al
 
Back
Top