Annealing 101

T

tiny68

Member
I am trying to learn to shoot BR with a 6BR for group and 30BR for score. However after I turn the necks I can only shoot them 5-7 times before the necks start to stiffen up. I am also making some 6mm Rem brass out of 7x57 RWS and it required that a lot of material be turned off after necking down.

Time to learn to anneal. No $400 annealing machines in my shop. I welded a 1/4" bolt into a piece of conduit that is mounted in my cordless drill that allows the brass to slide in to just the top half of the shoulder and neck will be exposed to the flame. I know I need to get the necks to around 650F to anneal them to the proper softness. I am using a MAP torch for heat but I have an actylene torch if required. Problem is no local welding shops have the 650F TempSil sticks to mark with for my learning curve. I have called every store within 50 miles. I have read bring it to a dull purple grow and that once you see the orange you have went too far and should discard the brass. I have tried to see the purple and even darked the shop. I don't see it.

Two questions:

1. How do I know for sure that I have it annealed enough?
2. Is it absolutely necessary to quench in water to stop heading the base of the case? I would prefer to keep a dry case.

Thanks for input, tiny
 
Greetings. Okay, not having annealed cases, nor even started reloading yet, here's what I learned, and practiced, in Jewelry making regarding brass-

A proper annealing temperature indicator is the brass turns dull red, easily seen in a dim garage.

Don't quench brass, you lose some of the softness. Let it air cool.

A hand held propane or MAPP gas torch would be fine for annealing. With an actylene torch you best be careful and use a soft, bushy flame lest you melt your cartridge.

Cheers,

Mark
 
New annealing machine

At the Shot Show last January Battenfeld had a new annealing machine in their booth. It was a carousel type that used two propane torches has anybody used one?
 
Not all annealing is done to the same degree, nor are the products that are annealed used in the same way. A dull red will give you dead soft necks, not what you want, and if you soften the case head by mistake, you are almost sure to suffer serious bodily injury. In the instructions for one of the rotary case annealers that I read a number of years ago, the manufacturer specifically said that if you heated necks so that they glowed, even the slightest amount in a darkened room, that they had been over heated. You might want to read this entire article, and play the video. It is the best piece that I have ever seen on the subject.
http://www.6mmbr.com/annealing.html
 
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