Adjusting Pumpkin neck turner for length

[adamsgt]

Having some difficulty in getting my new Pumpkin neck turner adjusted for length. I've followed the instruction sheet supplied with the turner but can't get the mandrel to move as indicated in the instructions. The instructions say to loosen screw "C", the lower of the two larger set screws. I believe this is to allow the mandrel to move out which is the direction I want. The Micro Adjustment collar is supposed to move with the mandrel but it doesn't. The only way I can get the mandrel to move is to loosen screw "D" the small set screw on the Micro Adjustment collar and tap the end of the mandrel with a plastic hammer. Not a real precision way of adjusting for length of cut. Any thoughts anyone?

 

[Chism G]

I don't remember seeing any instructions on length of cut when I got mine a long time ago. I've been tapping the mandrel to get it where I want it. Guess I been doing it wrong



Glenn

 

[adamsgt]

It operated per the instructions the first time I set it up. For some reason it doesn't work now. There is a part of some kind beneath the lower set screw that may be jamming the Micro Adjustment collar. I don't know how the different parts look like and I'm loath to take it apart. You shouldn't have to repair something that soon after putting it into service especially considering what the price is.

 

[Gene Beggs]

Not to worry.

It operated per the instructions the first time I set it up. For some reason it doesn't work now. There is a part of some kind beneath the lower set screw that may be jamming the Micro Adjustment collar. I don't know how the different parts look like and I'm loath to take it apart. You shouldn't have to repair something that soon after putting it into service especially considering what the price is.

Jerry, don't hesitate to take the Pumpkin apart. It's the only way you will fully understand how it works. It's not complicated and you're not going to hurt it by completely disassembling it. It sounds like you are trying to adjust the mandrel with the main micro adjustment set screw locked. Loosen this center set screw and you can withdraw the lower disc with the mandrel in place. By loosening the small set screw in the base, the mandrel can be adjusted up or down.

Hope this helps. If not give me a call or better yet drive out to Odessa and I'll give you some pointers on using the Pumpkin. Bring your rifle and check it out in the tunnel; the door is always open.

Later

Gene Beggs

 

[Boyd Allen]

Fellows,
Looking at a similar turner (Stiller) There are two cylinders that are end to end, each with set screws that tighten onto a common shaft that has a slightly eccentric turning mandrel ground onto the free end that sticks out by the cutter. If you are trying to use the step where the shaft is reduced in diameter to become the mandrel as a stop that makes contact with case mouths to limit how far down case necks the tool will cut, you can make precise adjustments with a set of feeler gauges. For instance, if you want the shoulder of the shaft that the aluminum cylinders are mounted on, to stick out .015 more toward the cutter, shortening the length of neck that can be cut, loosen the shorter cylinder, the one that does not have the cutter in it, enough that you can insert a .015, in the gap between it and the other one, and with end pressure on it, to remove any clearance, retighten it on the shaft, remove the feeler gauge, and loosen the front cylinder (the one with the cutter, and slide it back, closing the gap, and retighten. You should note the position of the index marks before doing any of this, and keep them in the same alignment during each step.

Starting from scratch, set the turner to turn thicker than you want, with the shoulder far enough back so that it will not act as a stop. Turn the neck to the point where you want the cut to end, and with the case at the end of the cut, in contact with the cutter, loosen the back cylinder and move it back far enough so that it will not get in your way, relock it on the shaft, then move front cylinder back on the shaft till the shoulder makes contact with the case mouth, and then lock it with the set screw. Then unlock the back piece and slide if forward, closing the gap. At that point you can finalize your neck thickness adjustment.

 

[adamsgt]

Loosen this center set screw and you can withdraw the lower disc with the mandrel in place.

Later

Gene Beggs

Gene the problem is that that doesn't work. For some reason I have to loosen the small screw as well as the center one in order to get the mandrel to move. But even though the mandrel moves, the lower disc will only rotate it won't move in or out. That eliminates the possibility of using a feeler gauge to set the length.

 

[Gene Beggs]

Instructor failure

Gene the problem is that that doesn't work. For some reason I have to loosen the small screw as well as the center one in order to get the mandrel to move. But even though the mandrel moves, the lower disc will only rotate it won't move in or out. That eliminates the possibility of using a feeler gauge to set the length.

Jerry, to quote Strother Martin in Cool Hand Luke, "What we have here is failure to communicate."

Your options, as I see it, are:

1. Load up and drive out to Odessa.

2. Mail the Pumpkin to me and I'll set it up for you.

3. Keep working with it till you figure it out, and I know you're smart enough to do that.

(Remember when you had to straighten me out on adjusting firing pin protrusion?)

4. Give me a call tommorow and I'll talk you through disassembly, adjustment and reassembly.


Later,


Gene

 

[adamsgt]

Jerry, to quote Strother Martin in Cool Hand Luke, "What we have here is failure to communicate."

Your options, as I see it, are:

1. Load up and drive out to Odessa.

2. Mail the Pumpkin to me and I'll set it up for you.

3. Keep working with it till you figure it out, and I know you're smart enough to do that.

(Remember when you had to straighten me out on adjusting firing pin protrusion?)

4. Give me a call tommorow and I'll talk you through disassembly, adjustment and reassembly.


Later,


Gene

I'd love to come to Odessa if I could afford the motel rates.

I've got plenty of neck turning gear. I have two K&M, a 21st Century, a PMA and the Pumpkin. The pumpkin seems to cut smoother than the K&M but that doesn't do me much good if it's a pain to adjust. I finished turning the cases I needed with the K&M so there's no reason to not try to take the Pumpkin apart. I'll try that in the morning over my second cup of coffee. I'll give you a call if I get stumped. Or when I get stumped.


Jerry

 

[abintx]

Having some difficulty in getting my new Pumpkin neck turner adjusted for length. I've followed the instruction sheet supplied with the turner but can't get the mandrel to move as indicated in the instructions. The instructions say to loosen screw "C", the lower of the two larger set screws. I believe this is to allow the mandrel to move out which is the direction I want. The Micro Adjustment collar is supposed to move with the mandrel but it doesn't. The only way I can get the mandrel to move is to loosen screw "D" the small set screw on the Micro Adjustment collar and tap the end of the mandrel with a plastic hammer. Not a real precision way of adjusting for length of cut. Any thoughts anyone?

What's Don Nielson's solution to the problem? It's his turner, isn't it? Maybe he would like to know the types of problems people are experiencing with his product so he could make it better. Just a thought too.

 

[adamsgt]

Problem Identified

There are one or maybe two causes for the problem. First, the precision work done in manufacturing the tool. Second, I prepared and used the concoction listed on the instruction sheet for lubrication, One qt 20-50 synthetic motor oil with 15 oz STP.

I quickly disassembled the tool removing the mandrel through the bottom. I tried to pull the lower portion away from the upper but was unable to do so. I could rotate the lower portion but I could not separate the two. Then, in a flash of brilliance, I tried to slide the lower portion off the upper, which succeeded.



The two surfaces are so closely mated that lubricant leaking into the area prevents them from being pulled apart. I know there's an engineering term for that resistant force but I don't remember what it is. Anyway, I think this occurred because I tried to make that adjustment after trimming a number of cases and lube had already migrated into the space between the two pieces. I don't know if there's any way to seal off that area to prevent lube from getting in there.

Now that I know what happened I can work around it.

 

[Jefferson]

Don made very nice toys I have 3 sets, but I am of the impression that Kelblys now sells them and perhaps gets them made somewhere off site so if that is indeed correct (I hope it is) then that is who should provide guidance to assist

Jefferson

 

[Don Nielson]

Trouble logging in.

Took a while to log on. Adamsgt is correct in that once some lube gets between the parts it's hard to move them apart. Maybe try spraying some brake cleaner on them.

The Neckturners are still made here in good old Winnetka, Ca. Kelbly's are one of my dealers. Don