A Chambering Experience.

Zebra13

Member
Gents,

This weekend I fitted up and chambered a 4 groove Krieger in 6.5 Creedmoor. Prior to doing this, I took the advice (I don't know why...I know it all already) of Butch and a few others and bought some Vipers Venom cutting fluid from Grizzly and a Warner threading tool with HSS inserts. A threading and a chambering I went...

...Holy Cow!

I don't know if it was the Vipers Venom, the Warner tool, or a combination of both, but I've never made prettier threads! I spun the barrel at 60 rpm's and the threads came out as smooth as an infant's arse. I hate to cover them up with the action...

I also chambered (pre-bored) with the Vipers Venom, and with my Kiff built reamer, I've never cut an easier or better chamber. I chamber at 80 rpm's (because I don't have the plumbs to chamber at Kiff's recommended speeds of 180-200) and felt no undue pressure on my Bald Eagle floating reamer holder (My big fear with spinning the higher rpm's is having the reamer holder tear my fingers off, pull me into the lathe, etc.). What has been you guys experience with the higher rpm's?

The Viper's Venom/Warner Tool/Kiff combo cut that barrel like butter. I'm very pleased.

Something else I did that is a bit out of the norm was to push my reamer holder using the carriage, as opposed to the tailstock. I have dowel pin that I ground to a smooth, round profile on one end a la the pusher on the Bald Eagle set-up. That side will push the floating holder. The other end I grab in a 5C holder for my KDK tool holder. I spin the dowel pin in with and indicator to nuts, and away I go. I do all this because I can use my DRO to keep track of my cutting depths and starting points. I find it easier than using the dial on my tailstock, or messing with indicators. I also find it easier to maintain a consistent rate of feed on the reamer this way. If I chambered like Jackie recommends (and it makes total sense), and I have, running the reamer in a bit deep and building the tenon around it, this would be unnecessary. But for some reason, I am more comfortable doing the turning and threading operations first, then chambering. To each his own...

Anyway, I'm very pleased with the Viper's Venom and Warner Tools maiden voyage. If you're thinking about pulling the trigger on one, the other, or both, I recommend them. And thank you to Butch and the others here on the forum for sharing their advice and experiences.

Justin
 
justin
i am no one to be giving advise, but it sounds like you had some soft stainless to work with. One thing i have learned is every barrel cuts different than the last.
I do like the vipers spit, as i use it all the time. I also had the warner HHS threading tool, but i didnt care for it. I do have several other Warner HHS insert tools that i do like, and use all the time. I use a Kenametal insert threading tool and thread at 220RPM. I also chamber at 220 RPM and i find it works real nice for me. My lathe isnt the most ridgid machine made, and i do at times get a small amount of chatter with my threading tool, but i think its the machine and not the tooling. I have threaded as fast as 360 and i get the same results. I really have to have my brain working to thread at that speed so i dont do it often. LOL!! I have been real happy with the barrels i have made, and i have even had a couple of them do really well in short range matches. I love playing on my machine, and i have deceided its about time to upgrade to a better unit. Something a little more ridgid, and heavier. Lee
 
I was Viper's first customer for the Viper Venom and I am very satisfied. Also Warner HSS cutters. I a few sets and always cut great and easy to sharpen.

John
 
I was Viper's first customer for the Viper Venom and I am very satisfied. Also Warner HSS cutters. I a few sets and always cut great and easy to sharpen.

John

John,

When you re-sharpen the inserts, are you just dressing the top, or are you getting after the sides also?

Justin
 
........... I do all this because I can use my DRO to keep track of my cutting depths and starting points. I find it easier than using the dial on my tailstock, or messing with indicators. I also find it easier to maintain a consistent rate of feed on the reamer this way.

Justin


Just a note to 'splain what I did ;)

First of all I SO AGREE that feeding with DRO is freakin' AWESOME!!! And I'm not disagreeing, critiquing nor otherwise disputing wit' your method...... Just sharing another way, I kinda' got my cake and et it too.

I took the knee axis pickup off my mill and mounted it onto the rear splashguard of my lathe horizontally. Then I built stops and standoffs for both the carriage and the tailstock and put finger screws on everything so's I can change from one to the other in about 50 seconds. Now I can get direct readout for BOTH units (individually) I did whittle a couple exter braces for my splashguard to make it stiffer but that's mainly for alignment, to keep from any chance of binding the setup.

It's cheapie, it's mickey-mouse but it's accurate and lo-tech (read cheap :) ). I left my drive plate on the tailstock so's I can still run a dial if I want but for making dies it's just wicked handy to do BOTH, and with the pickup back out of the way it doesn't limit my motion on any axes.

al
 
Changing my system...... downside is unclipping it when I want to draw the tailstock assembly clear back. And of course having to change it over between operations, not much time but SOME :)

I found a short throw DRO pickup for just under 200 clams, new, I'm mounting it on the tailstock as a separate assembly.

Still happy with the main pickup mounted on the rear splashplate.

al
 
Sharpening HSS inserts

John,

When you re-sharpen the inserts, are you just dressing the top, or are you getting after the sides also?

Justin

Hi Justin,

Great to see you on the site. When you sharpen the Arthur R. Warner HSS inserts, just use a wet stone with some oil and put the top side down and move it in a circular motion. It only takes 30 seconds and it's ready to rock and roll again. Most times it's not even dull but gets a buildup on the edge.

Da' Viper
 
new lath

Skeetlee
What do you have now & what are you going to up grade to ?
Thanks Max
 
Max
I have a 13x40 belt drive jet. My machine turns very true and has done a really good job on barrels. I do wish it were a bit heavier. not 100percent sure what lathe we will end up with, but I really can't stop looking at the big grizzly gunsmith lathe. Either the big grizzly or an older American made machine I'm sure. Something more ridged, and heavier. Like I said though, if barrels were Allie were going to turn we would stick with the jet. Lee
 
Hi Justin,

Great to see you on the site. When you sharpen the Arthur R. Warner HSS inserts, just use a wet stone with some oil and put the top side down and move it in a circular motion. It only takes 30 seconds and it's ready to rock and roll again. Most times it's not even dull but gets a buildup on the edge.

Da' Viper

Bob,

Copy the above. Thanks, and thanks for making the Venom!

Justin
 
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