'98 mauser with external safety ???

M

mike in co

Guest
gentlemen and ladies,

i am a budding gunsmith, just doing my own rifles. i have an interarms mark x 7x57 mauser....in pcs. when i got this there was a stripped bolt, no trigger assy, no lower metal/mag well. i have assembled the bolt with a mil safety, but as the rifle is set up for an aftermarket trigger with a side safety, i would like to finish it that way. i have an fn bolt sleve without provision for a mil safety.
so here is my question: without a bolt mounted safety, how does one assemble/dissassemble the bolt ? in mil config the safety is turned up, the bolt extracted and the sleeve/safety/firing pin assy is unscrewed from the bolt body. cannot see how this is done with no safety in place.

help

thanks
mike in co
 
Mike,

Most of the commercial Mausers had a hole drilled in the sear on the firing pin that you could run a pin or nail thru to hold the spring tension. If yours hasn't got that, try clamping a vyce jaws onto the exposed piece of the sear so the jaws butt right up on the shroud. Worked for me.

John
 
thanks john.
as i had to replace some parts , no hole...but i may fix that
thanks again
mike
 
Grip the cocking piece with parallel pliers, pull it back until you can rotate it just enough so the most forward piece is held on the back of the shroud... then carefully unscrew the shroud. This needs to be done carefully because if you rotate the cocking piece 90 degrees it comes off the firing pin.... you can also slip a coin between the cocking piece and the shroud with your third hand ...
 
so the bottom line, unless i can pin it before removing from the action, its gonna come out uncocked ? right ??
thanks
mike
 
Yep, the safety is the only thing holding the pin in the cocked position when you remove the bolt. Use a penny or a dime after pulling the cocking peice back.
 
To disassemble the bolt, hook the sear on the striker on a corner of a bench or anything strong enough and square enough to hold it. pull on the bolt body until the striker is clear of the shroud and insert a small ellen wrench or other thin object under the sear between the striker and the shroud. Once you have done this the striker assembly will unscrew from the bolt body. To disassemble the striker assembly just compress the firing pin by pushing down on the shroud into a wooden bench, and rotate the striker 90d off the firing pin.
 
You are not doing yourself any favors by using a trigger safety in the first place. I will not use a trigger safety on any Mauser I own and use. But that is my own personal opinion. Notice my opinion is worth every cent you had to pay for it.
 
Big Al said:
You are not doing yourself any favors by using a trigger safety in the first place. I will not use a trigger safety on any Mauser I own and use. But that is my own personal opinion. Notice my opinion is worth every cent you had to pay for it.
Click to expand...
not sure i understand...?

i'm putting back an extrernal trigger mounted...cause that is how the gun is built and the stock is cut for it. cheaper to use a low safety.

mike in co
 
so this is a stock 7x57 interarms mark X, and you guys think i should put on a low profile bolt mounted safety, and fill the stock where the original safety was ??

thanks everyone.

mike in co
 
I don't want to have to get in a long tirade about the advantages of a firing pin safety over a trigger safety. The value to any rifle equipped with a firing pin safety over a trigger safety is purely a matter of safety and convenient to the user. Is the value to the user better? Is the convenience to the user enhanced? Is it worth your time and money to do this to your rifle?

For the guy that knows better, the answer is a resounding, YES.

Work on the stock with this mod means absolutely nothing at all.
 
al,
i fit a low scope safety last night,,,,
so safer and cheaper....
thanks guys..i am still learning and do appreciate the input.
( i have never seen the trigger type safety..it would have been a first for me, so now i just have a little wood work to fill the old safety hole)


mike in co
 
Good info . .

Most of the Mk X came with the trigger safety, and as the guys say above, they are for the most part - junk. You did the right thing with the low mount safety on the Mauser- Mk X, go to the safety on the Shroud, keeps the firing pin from dropping and is much safer. When I do mine I usually use the Mk ll Dayton Traister Safety and use the Military Shroud, it may not be all that pretty, but works. The nice thing about them also is that they will go off safety in a flash and it only takes one movement, it is disengaged and ready to fire.

The other thing they commented on is using a coin to disengage the shroud from the bolt . . papapaul had it absolutely correct. Just keep a couple of pennies on the bench to use just for that purpose, usually about 10 cents worth, that way you can always find one when you have that bolt in a pulled position and reaching for one . . :D

Phantom496
 
Thos one is superior to any flip-up levers, IMHO. $115 shipped.

Twopositionsafeties002.jpg
 
I bought an M70 type Wisner safety already installed from Jim Kobe [you may know him from above post as "Jkob"] on a shroud that he supplied for a fee. He is a pleasure to do biz with.

I read Wagner's website.
Wagner did not know that Brownells links to him, until I told him:
http://www.gswagner.com/swede/pmssafety/compare.htm
http://www.gswagner.com/swede/pmssafety/pmssafety.html



I volunteered in 2008 to build a rifle for the daughter of a US soldier in Iraq.
I then bought the Chapman tooling and a $20 Chapman safety from Brownells.This is a great idea, if you want to get rid of gun parts lying around that you will never otherwise use. When I met them to give them the rifle, they liked it. Good thing they did not look closely at my Chapman safety fitting job:)



I took Jim's safety apart again and again looking at it.
I read the Chapman instructions again and again.
I read Wager's page again and again.

1) The fitting and bluing required on a $20 Chapman safety compared to a $30 Wisner safety is more than $10 worth of work.
2) Another problem I had was getting the metal slitting saws from Wholesale Tool. Not a terrible supplier, but not good either.
3) My mill would not go slow enough for the large diameter saw. That dulled a saw.

Like the others, I think that trigger safeties and Bueller safeties suck.
I now have a pile of Wisner safeties waiting for me to install them.
 

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