700 Rem Threading Mandrel

B

BobB

Guest
Lately I've been getting requests to thread the front of the barrel for suppressors, mostly 5/8-24 TPI for Remington Bolt Actions.

I've have a few questions.

Is there mandrel that one could chcuk up in a lathe that allows this or does the barrel need to come off?

Has anyone ever made one?

I am thinking of making a mandrel that takes the place of the bolt, slips into the action, and with a small pin on it where the bolt handle closes to drive it. I'll put an inch and a half diameter behind it to chuck up on and be able to maybe remove the trigger assembly, and turn the whole thing to thread it.

I did this for ARs and the Colt M4 .22 and it worked quite well and kept me from having to disassemble the hole top half.

Is this even a good idea for a 700?

Your thoughts are appreciated.
 
It works great. I have done a few that way and I know somone who has probably done 500 + that way.
 
barrel therading mandrell

I have a couple different mandrels of sort for threading the ends of bolt guns Mine centers on the front of the chamber and dog drives off of the cocking handle releif i have several different holes threaded along the way for different length actions
 
Thankyou Gentlemen.

I'll make one and try it out. It seems like I am the only one around for a long ways that is capable of threading a barrel. I've been getting them from various police depts, and lots of people around here shoot suppressors.

I knew there had to be an easier way.
 
Threading barrels at the muzzle holds very little hope of having the bore run
true when driven with the action attached. There is no way to indicate
anything, short of asumption. It may be possible to do a good job using
the method that Gordy gritters uses when chambering barrels. The last
few inches of the barrel is critical. Factory barrels wander badly and misalignment of actions preclude indicating anything meaningful. Police
rifles are not much better than factory and there requirements are not
that demanding.
 
I have used a coned mandrel held in the chuck. The cone engages the rear of the chamber. With a dial gauge on the cone I 'bump' it with my hand and can get it dialed in within 2 thou or less. I have a removable screw that goes in to drive the action within the magazine box area.

You will not have any accuracy problems with the method centering on the chamber and threading the muzzle on a live center. The muzzle is so far from the chamber perfect alignment with the bore is irrelevant.
 
What's the purpose of a suppressor on a Rem 700?? Is it critical that everything is nuts-on??:confused:

Ray
 
Purpose of a suppressor

Cheechako said:
What's the purpose of a suppressor on a Rem 700?? Is it critical that everything is nuts-on??:confused:

Ray
Click to expand...

The purpose of the suppressor is to reduce the footprint of the muzzle blast, both sound and flash, and some recoil suppression. That helps conceal the shooter and allow the shooter to get back on target quicker.

Ideally you have about 0.020" diameter over bore through the suppressor, so you can't be too sloppy lining up the suppressor with the bore or you could have a catastrophic failure. Using the Gritter's method would be using a range rod in the muzzle to indicate in the bore. nhk
 
So you are really talking about a procedure similar to installing a brake.

If that is correct, you are worrying about the wrong end of the barrel. Getting the chamber end close to centered can be accomplished any number of ways and is not that critical. The muzzle thread can be cut on a live center. But when the time comes to bore out the exit hole you will need some way to get the bore in line, as close to nuts as possible. I use an adjustable spider in the steady rest and you can get close enough for a factory Rem barrel. For a super accurate Benchrest barrel it's probably best to remove the barrel.

Now another question - why is it desirable for the shooter to be concealed? This is a BR/Competition type of Forum, not LEO.:confused: Or, are groups smaller when no one can see you?:cool:

Ray
 
Why?

Cheechako said:
So you are really talking about a procedure similar to installing a brake.

If that is correct, you are worrying about the wrong end of the barrel. Getting the chamber end close to centered can be accomplished any number of ways and is not that critical. The muzzle thread can be cut on a live center. But when the time comes to bore out the exit hole you will need some way to get the bore in line, as close to nuts as possible. I use an adjustable spider in the steady rest and you can get close enough for a factory Rem barrel. For a super accurate Benchrest barrel it's probably best to remove the barrel.

Now another question - why is it desirable for the shooter to be concealed? This is a BR/Competition type of Forum, not LEO.:confused: Or, are groups smaller when no one can see you?:cool:

Ray
Click to expand...

Yes, similar to a muzzle break, but you're not boring it out after it's mounted. Indicate the muzzle in with a range rod (on two spots simultaneously). It would be like reversing a chambering job, with the muzzle in the 4-jaw chuck.

Yes, this is a B/R forum and suppressors are used for primarily for sniping or discreet hunting. I didn't start the thread, but you asked what their purpose was. Three gun shooters and tactical shooting competitors use them. It's also more pleasant to sit beside a suppressor than a muzzle break on the line at the range. nhk
 
Last edited by a moderator:
If the brake or the suppressor are made accurately with their respective bores the required diameter and true to their threads it is a simple thread job at the muzzle on a live center. I always finish the inside 'bore' of the brakes before fitting them and checking with a stepped spud. Never had a problem with this procedure.
 
Dennis Sorensen said:
If the brake or the suppressor are made accurately with their respective bores the required diameter and true to their threads it is a simple thread job at the muzzle on a live center. . .
Click to expand...

Dennis

I wonder how many supressors you will find that are that accurate? I would think that a light finish cut with a boring bar would be in order. Just as you would with a brake.

Ray
 
We like suppressors cause I hate noise. We can shoot full power 300 WM rifles with no hearing protection on.. Everyone should have one..In Europe is is considered impolite to shoot without one.. they aren't regulated there like here(stupid US laws thanks to mob movies).

Baffle strikes are a big problem. IT wants to be pretty close to the bore, and not angled or crooked.
 
Supressor tolerances

I'm not promoting any particular suppressors, but take a look at this site so you can get a feel for a suppressor: http://thunderbeastarms.com/

If you notice they aren't cheap and not a lot of companies make them because of the engineering (and paperwork) involved. They are longer than a muzzle brake and the inside is full of layers of baffles with smaller holes than in a muzzle brake and everything lines up. The tolerances are critical to the function. The Thunderbeast suppressors are designed to install hand tight and the internal turbulence keeps them on.

Because of the internal chambers I wouldn't want to risk getting metal chips inside.

Question: If you thread your muzzle on the live center, how do you maintain that alignment to bore a muzzle brake, which I assume you've installed; do you use a steady rest? You are also only boring about a thickness of 0.25" maximum, correct?
 
Everyone should have one....

Moldmaker said:
Everyone should have one..In Europe it is considered impolite to shoot without one.. they aren't regulated there like here.
Click to expand...

... on every rifle! I'll second that. They are a little cost prohibitive to own though.

I hate sitting at the bench, under a roof, next to a .3xx-something (or any rifle) that has a muzzle brake on. nhk
 
Cheechako said:
Dennis

I wonder how many supressors you will find that are that accurate? I would think that a light finish cut with a boring bar would be in order. Just as you would with a brake.

Ray
Click to expand...

Suppressors are prohibited in Canada. A good friend of mine had his confiscated and has now finished a 2 year sentence. My knowledge is limited but as far as I know suppressors are made caliber specific and do not require alteration if the barrel is accurately machined. As soon as you shoot with one you will immediately know if the barrel was threaded correctly. Accuracy will not decrease, it may increase. That is what I have gleaned by those experienced in these matters. I have no reason to doubt them.
 
Caliber specific

Dennis Sorensen said:
suppressors are made caliber specific and do not require alteration if the barrel is accurately machined. As soon as you shoot with one you will immediately know if the barrel was threaded correctly. Accuracy will not decrease, it may increase. That is what I have gleaned by those experienced in these matters. I have no reason to doubt them.
Click to expand...

Same thing I've heard from those that make/use them. I've seen the targets too. nhk
 
nhkuehl said:
. . .I hate sitting at the bench, under a roof, next to a .3xx-something (or any rifle) that has a muzzle brake on. nhk
Click to expand...

600 and 1000 yard Benchrest are shot under a roof, next to a .3xx-something, and just about every rifle has a brake. When you are shooting a group you don't even hear the rifle next to you if you are paying attention to the flags.

Oh yes, we wear ear muffs.

Ray
 
Brakes

Cheechako said:
600 and 1000 yard Benchrest are shot under a roof, next to a .3xx-something, and just about every rifle has a brake. When you are shooting a group you don't even hear the rifle next to you if you are paying attention to the flags.

Oh yes, we wear ear muffs.

Ray
Click to expand...

The benches at our local range are about 2 feet apart, and I wear double hearing protection, so it's not the sound, but the felt concussion I dislike. I try to keep one bench between me and the offending brake because it interrupts my pacemaker :( nhk
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top