700 bolt contact

J

jaj

Guest
Hey, guys. Have a 700 mountain. While cleaning up after a bedding project, I noticed wear on bolt plug/firing pin shroud/etc where it has been making contact with rear of receiver when bolt closed. Remington said this was "normal". What I really want to know is whether this is a potential accuracy killer, and if a little clearance should be provided. I feel the rifle has shot somewhat erratic.....Thankums
 
jaj

Since the bolt plug is threaded to the bolt body, it is free to turn. The only thing that keeps it from turning when it's in the firing position is the contact with the receiver. Any "clearance" that you try to provide will just result in a sloppier fit. I don't know if the contact is an accuracy killer (probably not) but what I have done to some of my bolts is to install nylon plugs so that contact occurs on both sides evenly. It also keeps the firing pin head centered and keeps it from potentialy dragging on the trigger housing. And it's a way to eliminate the bolt handle "jump" when the f.p. head hits the cocking cam in the bolt.

Is it all worth it? probably not. Here's a photo. Maybe someone has a better idea?

2nqquf9.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I will try to attach pics (technologically challenged and new to forum.......) Contact on right side is on tang by "f" safety position; contact on left is at rear, side of receiver. One can see there is not much wear/contact, but with all the talk about bolt handle contact on stock, this feels like another form of arbitrary influence in the same area.... Of course this may be helping with bolt slop as mentioned by Cheechako.... View attachment 11856 View attachment 11857
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I would not be to concerned with wear at that point, as it never seems to amount to much. What Cheechako says about
misalignment however is quite real. That misalignment is very common in factory Remingtons and causes the cocking piece
to dig into the trigger side plates. In that event, it could have the ability to affect firing pin energy and fall. I had done this
on one some time back, and although you don't always see improvements on paper, its very possible. The gun I did this on
did shoot very well, probably my best gun to date. I should do the rest of them
 
Darn it, Bob! Now I see a nick in the upper left rear corner of the trigger housing side plate! No evidence on cocking piece engagement surface, but I guess it's hardened. I can easily see how Cheechako's buttons limit rotation and jump, but I am left wondering how they re-align rear of bolt over trigger housing. No offense C; I like your idea a lot. May crack you later for details........

If I haven't annoyed/bored ya'll to death with this yet, I might ask if there is a typical source of this misalignment: offset lugs? off-center receiver slot for trigger assy? CROOKED BOLT OR RECEIVER!? Any other "less than the cost of a rifle" cures?

Darn, that is a HUGE looking nick.........
 
Last edited by a moderator:
jaj

Try to determine exactly what caused the nick on the trigger housing before looking for a way to fix it. It could have been something as simple as a barrel butcher smacking it with a ball peen hammer in frustration.:eek:

The nylon plugs are carefully fitted to accomplish the things I said they did. Requires measuring and eyeballing the relationships of the parts, with the action out of the stock so you can see the underside. Removing the f.p. spring also helps make the job a little easier.

Don't forget, the bolt plug HAS to contact the receiver when you lift the handle, so there is going to be contact on the left side, at a minimum. That contact is what keeps the bolt plug from turning along with the bolt body and allows it to cock.

I'd say that "all of the above" can contribute to misalignment. If you happen to get a rifle where all of the potential contributors are minimum, there is no need to do anything. If you get a particularly sloppy one, you may not be able to get a good result without replacing some of the parts, starting with the bolt plug.

When you are all done, don't be disappointed if the rifle doesn't shoot any better than it did before. I mean, c'mon, it's a Remington M700.;);)

Ray
 
Last edited by a moderator:
In addition to the nylon plugs, which I have no doub't may minimize some vibrations, some work can be done on the cocking pc.
Typically, I remove the cocking piece and stone away all the sharp edges which contribute to that little gouge in the trigger
side plates. Some side plates are just more prominent, due to the trigger slot being a poor match with the notch in the top.
In battery position, the cocking pc is within the side plates and the typical damage is done while moving the bolt into battery.
It could however contribute to ignition problems if dragging at that point.
 
Hey, guys. What caused sideplate ding? May have something to do with dings on bolt handle and rear of receiver where they first meet to cam handle over when closing bolt. All dings fom same event? Anyway, cleaned them up just because and will blame on previous owner.:p Also, have had a frequent squeak when working bolt handle. Rib running right side of receiver race apparently protruded rearward into bolt handle. Possibly, this kicks rear of bolt to left when closed causing sideplate ding or pin dragging. Again, no signs on cocking piece. Relieved rib and front of bolt handle. At least no more squeak. Pin drop does seem crisper (no empirical data here. Just an "Oh, S---! This really seems better!"). Trigger pull now seems lighter with creep, though. Should be 3 pounds on my hunting rifles. Could misalignment cause change in trigger pull? Will get guage out and reset if necessary. Note locking lug engagement (front of bolt, not trigger!) was even but very light. Slightly lapped here to maybe 80% contact.......

Anyone brave enough to tell me whether to hone both "nubs" or just front one on cocking piece? Never saw need on my 2 700 varmints, but this rifle trigger has always been mushy. I think engagement slightly over 1/8 turn from pin drop. Been a long time since I diddled with one and will have to recheck my spec sheet.

Sad thing is, if rifle shoots better/worse this Wednesday, I won't know why! Too many simultaneous changes to list here.............Agreed, just a 700 dere blaster, but I simply desire sub moa and somewhat consistent ccb. I've done it with RUGER!!! Maybe I should have this one rebuilt as a 6.5-284 to shoot long range at Hardrock as intended when I bought the thing, but my deer son has my other dear rifle!

Thanks for your time,

James
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Back
Top