30 BR info needed

I am getting ready to order a 30 BR reamer and want everyones numbers on what they use for a reamer. What neck and base diameter, throat angle, and freebore do you use? I have not settled on any specific bullet yet so I want to hit somewhere in the middle of the road to make tuning easier. I do know that the heaviest bullet I will use will be a 125 so I am shooting for a 1 in 17 twist barrel. Any help will be appreciated.

Brent Lidgard
 
30BR prints

I am getting ready to order a 30 BR reamer and want everyones numbers on what they use for a reamer. What neck and base diameter, throat angle, and freebore do you use? I have not settled on any specific bullet yet so I want to hit somewhere in the middle of the road to make tuning easier. I do know that the heaviest bullet I will use will be a 125 so I am shooting for a 1 in 17 twist barrel. Any help will be appreciated.

Brent Lidgard

Brent,
I'll try to send ya a copy of my 30BR reamer.... My scaner is freak'n out right now but if ya like I can mail ya a copy of my reamer prints.

You can P.M. me with your mailing address if ya like and I'll snail mail it to ya Mon morning...

My 30BR reamer is a "Robinet" in the body to the shoulder... I then had Kiff do a 1 deg 30 leade .030 free bore (I shoot the 1.00 jacket 7-8ogive 30's)
and a "no-turn" .334nk... I call it the no nonsense 30BR...:D

Works real good... Lapua brass just flops out at STIFF loads.. Provides lottsa neck tension potential and a loaded bullet typically measuring .3084 at the pressure ring bring overall loaded round neck diam to .3323... Perfect in my book...

Oh P.S..... If ya like what ya hear and don't want to mess with the mailing... I can just send you the reamer print # from Pacific... I'm not at home now and don't remember what the print # is.....:confused:
cale
 
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Whatever design you decide on..

I am getting ready to order a 30 BR reamer and want everyones numbers on what they use for a reamer. What neck and base diameter, throat angle, and freebore do you use? I have not settled on any specific bullet yet so I want to hit somewhere in the middle of the road to make tuning easier. I do know that the heaviest bullet I will use will be a 125 so I am shooting for a 1 in 17 twist barrel. Any help will be appreciated.

Brent Lidgard

do yourself a BIG favor and order a reamer from Hugh Henriksen. Caveat emptor!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
I already have a good relationship with a reamer manufacturer and am just in need of some numbers. I like to look at what everyone else does and make a determination on what I should do. Thanks for all the replies and I hope to get some more.
 
In my opinion

If you go with the specks Randy Robinett developed, you can't go very far wrong.
 
Hypothetically,

If you go with the specks Randy Robinett developed, you can't go very far wrong.

For 7-8 caliber [tangent] ogive bullets, the 1.75 degree (3.5 Deg. included) throat angle is the " best match" . . . The only change I'd make on the [so called] "Robinett Reamer": for the web diameter (datum at 0.200" ahead of the bolt-face), state, "NOT LESS THAN" 0.4715.

I have pals using throat angles as steep at 3.0 Deg. (6.0 Deg. included) with satisfactory results . . . but even I won't go there! :eek::D All of my various [caliber] BR reamer bodies have proven to be good "matches" with the Redding Type "S" FL/Nk Bushing dies. For the thirty caliber, I used a 7MM BR, and, using a carbide boring-bar, opened the neck-port to about 0.340" diameter - the un-opened port acted like a .329" nk bushing/curling-iron!:eek: The Harrell's dies are an excellent option. Good shootin'! RG
 
The only change I'd make on the [so called] "Robinett Reamer": for the web diameter (datum at 0.200" ahead of the bolt-face), state, "NOT LESS THAN" 0.4715. Randy,


What about .4707 .200 ahead of the web......?

Brass works EXCELLENT in this chamber and the Redding 30BR S die seems a perfect dim with this reamer dimension.

Thanks,
cale
 

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This may be a dumb question, but why go with the .4715? The factory Lapua brass is .469 at the base. On my PPC reamer I ordered the base at .440 and it works and extracts great and that brass is .439 unfired. My Redding small base die for the ppc sizes it down to around .4395.
 
Well I'm not Randy but I'll back up his figures, IN FACT........ I think he's nutz to stop at .4715!!!

BETcha' money that the REASON is to eliminate the click, the sticky bolt..... the whole mess associated with shooting these things the way they were designed to shoot but with a too-small chamber.

Randy will correct me if I'm speaking untruth :):)


BTW, MY butts are set at .475 and .477 for the BR and X47 cases..... friggin' AWESOME!!!!


LOL


al
 
The only change I'd make on the [so called] "Robinett Reamer": for the web diameter (datum at 0.200" ahead of the bolt-face), state, "NOT LESS THAN" 0.4715. Randy,


What about .4707 .200 ahead of the web......?

Brass works EXCELLENT in this chamber and the Redding 30BR S die seems a perfect dim with this reamer dimension.

Thanks,
cale
Though I've "gotten away" with the minimal difference between the 0.4707" chamber and the often .4695" diameter virgin brass,some have not fared so well. Having a minimum difference of 0.002", and assuming a die-base which sizes back to .4690" or smaller, will USUALLY eliminate the dreaded "CLICK" during primary extraction.
MORE room (per AL in WA) is BETTER, assuring that the size-die keeps the web diameter "under control"! :eek: Though, with my reamer/die combination, I've not encountered the click, others have: all things are made to tolerances; therefore, I recommend opting to cover your posterior. :D RG

P.S. I don't recommend "stopping" at .4715", but assuring nothing "less than" this amount, and allowing the poor reamer maker ALL of the tolerance on the PLUS side.:eek:;)
 
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My experience follows right in line with R.G.'s recommendations.

You want a reamer with minimally .002 over the 'back end' dimension of the Lapua 6BR case. Randy's figures of "..not less than .4715" are dead on as a minimum. :cool: And 'back ends' of .4720-.4725 work well also. This range of dimensions are perfect fits with the available Redding and Harrels dies....making life a whole bunch simpler.

Think of the 30BR reamer/case/die package like a female....minimal clearance/skinny back end ones are nothing but trouble. :D A little (not too much) 'junk in the trunk' makes for a better package. ;)

On a related note concerning the 30BR: The current Lapua 6BR cases show a marked difference in stress relief from the earlier stuff. Even though the out-of-the-box coloration of the stress relieving appears similar to the earlier cases, these later cases are quite different in hardness. Not better or worse..just different. Proper stress relieving of these cases as the final step before firing them the first time is critical.
 
What is proper stress relieving? Size, turn, re-anneal? I need to know these things.

Well, I didn't anneal aft my brass prep.......... Thought about it.... About 15 or so firings and all's well.

Many recommend it with the 30BR/PPC...

Wonder when I'll get the bolt click with my undersized chamber case body at .4707...???

cale
 
I am currently using 100 pieces of brass that I set up when I built my 30BR. It is two seasons old, approx 1700 bullets have been fired out of this brass. The brass is still shooting better than I can steer the gun. This gun truly amazes me. No bolt click. I full length resize every time.
 
I am currently using 100 pieces of brass that I set up when I built my 30BR. It is two seasons old, approx 1700 bullets have been fired out of this brass. The brass is still shooting better than I can steer the gun. This gun truly amazes me. No bolt click. I full length resize every time.

Good news to hear... I believe I may see similar results.
cale
 
I am currently using 100 pieces of brass that I set up when I built my 30BR. It is two seasons old, approx 1700 bullets have been fired out of this brass. The brass is still shooting better than I can steer the gun. This gun truly amazes me. No bolt click. I full length resize every time.

Joe,

What is the dimension of your chamber? Easier, what does your brass measure at the base bulge before and after firing.......THIS inquiring mind would like to know. :)


thanxal
 
alinwa: The back ends of my 30BR chambers measure .4715 @ .200 ahead of the extractor groove. With the Lapua cases measuring nominally .469-ish, the cases extract fine and the Redding die I use sizes this part of the case perfectly.

However....when we get the reamer redone or a new one made, I'll opt for something around .4720-.4725 for a bit more safety margin.

The cases for my Kostyshyn barreled 30BR have well in excess of 80 firings each on them with only periodic stress relieving of the neck/shoulder area. They have lately developed the click :eek:, however. :( The base of the cases have been worked enough so that the will no longer 'stay' where the die sizes them to...they measure .4715-ish even after being sized. Since stress relieving this part of the case isn't something that "should" be done...it's simply time for some new cases after this season. As well as it's shooting, I'll live with the click until then. All good things come to an end eventually..and these cases have given me 'way more service than I would have ever thought possible. Especially with .004 neck clearance. :eek: More heresy, I know. :)

There are a lot of really, really good .30 cal 1:17-1:19 being produced right now.

But I'd give a goodly sized portion of most of my body parts for ten to twenty more 1:17 Kostyshyn barrels from Craig's heyday! :cool:
 
Al Nyhus,

Try a Hart....... I'm working on a Hart right now that's just purely stacking bullets. The really weird thing is the wide sweet spot. I started down around 2800fps and worked up to 3250fps and the bullets from 2875 to 3050 all went in the same hole! From there on up she climbed nearly an inch @100, cut a slot.

al
 
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