3 lever remington trigger

B

bglenn

Guest
I think I have ended up with a 3 lever remington trigger, is there any way to tell for sure? What are the pro and cons of this trigger? I pierced a primer and the middle lever is cracked. Is this a problem with this trigger. Is there any other problems with this trigger? Thinks for any information you can provide me.

Glenn B.
 
Al

That looks like a Jewell.

Glenn

Are you sure you are not seeing the "split" sear on a standard Remington trigger??

The Remington 3-lever is the standard trigger with an intermediate lever added between the sear and the trigger. I have a couple of them and they are easy enough to ID but unfortunately they are in rifles so I can't photograph one for you. Maybe somebody else can.

Anyway, check for that two-piece "split" sear. That's the way it's supposed to look.

Ray
 
You know a picture makes it a lot better to understand, why didn't I think of that. Now I have to learn to post pictures. Will here goes.
I'll see if this works. Thanks for the help so for.

Glenn
 

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Nicely done Glenn!

Now that tool at the bottom of the picture........... it wouldn't have something to do with the problem would it?? :)

That definitely isn't a Jewell.

C,MON guys.... help the man!!

:)


al
 
alinwa
you eyes are to sharp !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Glenn
 
Looks like

The trigger in the photo looks like a Remington 2oz trigger.

This trigger was built on a standard Remington 700 trigger with the addition of the middle lever.

If you want to know more about the trigger there is a good write-up in Benchrest Actions and Triggers by Stuart Otteson.

Hope this helps.......Ian
 
At one time someone did a 2oz converson useing a Rem trigger, but I don't recall his name. Shilen and Hart also make, or made, a 2oz trigger that looks a lot like the Rem. I've been inside a Hart, but it's been a long time ago and I don't remember what it looks like now.
 
That is definatly 3-lever trigger. It has the small third lever between the sear block and the trigger lever. It should also have a torsion spring that holds the third lever up when the trigger resets.
The third lever does look exactly like the one used by Remington, per the photos in Stewart Otteson's books.
Most of the other conversions done in the early days and the "kitchen table" conversions done by a lot of individuals had the connector bar epoxied to the trigger lever.
You can tell a 3 lever from a 2 lever very quickly, there is at least one additional hole in the trigger housing of the 3 lever triggers. Sometimes there are two additoinal holes, one for the torsion spring to pivot on.
(The "conncetor bar" is the C shaped piece that has a small hole in it for the tip of the overtravel screw to contact the trigger lever when the trigger is tripped)
 
I've attached a standard 700 trigger drawing and a three link 700 trigger to illustrate the differences. I don't remember where these came from so my apologies to the originator for the lack of poper citation.
 

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Fred
That picture of the 3 lever remington trigger is the one I have. Now for the rest of the story, how good were these triggers when they were popular? Were there any problems with them? They look very good to me. The only thing I don't like is the connector not connected solid to the trigger. Like Jay said "a lot of individuals had the connector bar epoxied to the trigger lever" I can see why.
Guys thanks for all of the information you have provided me all is very helpful.

Glenn B.
 
A little back-ground is in order. I bought a xp-100 about a year ago it has a 21" LV barrel - 22 BR cal. - .242 neck - 1.510 case length - fiberglass stock - Remington 3 lever trigger. On shooting it the other day I blanked a primer with the piece going into the bolt. I ended up taking the trigger apart and found the middle lever cracked. Checked the bolt for firing pin size. The inside of the bolt is sleved and a Sako type extractor is installed. I was going to bush the firing pin hole and took the extractor out. With the extractor out I could see where the bushing that was put into the bolt goes about .450 deep. This deep looks to weaken the lugs on the bolt and I don't want to eat a bolt. I am thinking about making a new bolt for the rifle and a new middle lever for the trigger. Any ideas or suggestions are appreciated.

Glenn B.
 
I like A2 for the middle lever, used it when I was prototyping my personal 3 lever trigger. A friend makes all new parts, uses only the Rem housing, and he uses 440C.
If you have the facilities go ahead and make the bolt. But don't stop at one, make a run of them.
For a factory Rem, I think that a new Kiff bolt would be hard to beat.
If you want to sell the reject bolt, send me an email.
 
Jeff
The two sides of the housing are riveted together at the adjustment blocks. You tap out the pin that the trigger pivots on and you can slip the trigger out of the housing. The trigger weight adjusting screw (poundage screw) has a spring on it that sets against the trigger and you have to be careful and not lose the spring. I usually take the trigger weight adjusting screw out of the trigger when I work on the trigger. This is with the trigger removed from the action. There is a connector bar on the trigger that just sets against it and will fall off when you slide the trigger out of the case. The over travel screw holds the connector bar in place when everything is back together. Hope this helps.

Glenn B.
 
I had a Hart BR trigger on a custom BR action (unnamed) in 22 BR and blanked primers. It also broke the middle lever on the Hart. Sent it back to Hart and they said the firing pin being slammed back by a blanked primer would do it every time. I reduced the firing pin/hole to .062" and have not blanked a primer since. I had a silhouette shooter who had to have the Hart trigger for the adjustable trigger shoe, so he bought me a Jewell. Have never blanked a primer with the Jewell, so I don't know if it will destroy the middle lever or not, but I'm trying to avoid finding out.
 
Rem 3 lever

Glenn,

Since you are going to make a new lever it might help to check out Ottesons article on aftermarket 2oz conversions. There are several lever designs for that part and something may suit you better than duplicating what Rem used.

bjm
 
Jay - thanks for the idea on steel for lever.
Riflemeister a friend was shooting a 284 rem. last month in F class when he blanked a primer and didn't get to finish the match - Jewell trigger. Blanking is hard on triggers looks like.
Brian I didn't realize there were some changes of the lever in the book, guess I will have to get it. Thanks all

Glenn B.
 
The Otteson books have been out of print for 20+ years. However, I think that Wolfe Publishing has put them on a DVD for about $30. Call Wolfe for details. Wolfe publishes "Rifle", "Handloading" and some other magazines.
 
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