.270 Loads for F-class

K

katokoch

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Fellas,

While out shooting yesterday to celebrate the warm weather, I agreed to go to an F-class match or two with a buddy if he decided to (he is interested). He has a nice Remington 700 (Tactical .308) that shoots well already, but the only centerfire I've got is a Winchester 70 .270. I can do a couple of things with the stock to help me out, but I have no idea where to start with regards to load development (I am not a reloader). However, it is feasible to reload with him (he has the necessary equipment) so I want to use it to my advantage. The rifle shoots well enough already (groups around 1" with Hornady ammo shooting prone over a rolled up jacket), so I am willing to use it a few times in matches in lieu of dropping a bunch on another rifle. I've got a Leupold 36x and Mueller 8.5-25x, so I've got enough glass too.

Can anyone give me some ideas for starting points with basic components that would be best? Anything in particular I should be aware of with this round? The barrel is a 1 in 10" twist. I realize the .270 isn't too popular in target shooting because of a lack of good bullets, but I can suck it up and accept some shortcomings for the sake of having fun.

Also, if anyone shoots F-class at Elk River, please drop me a PM.

Thanks!
 
you do not say what distance or how many shots. your best load at that distance. you have a good scope. your .270 is not that different from a 6.5-06 or 6.5-284. a 150 berger and h or i4350?? have fun. roninflag
 
you do not say what distance or how many shots. your best load at that distance. you have a good scope. your .270 is not that different from a 6.5-06 or 6.5-284. a 150 berger and h or i4350?? have fun. roninflag

I believe 300 and 600 yards. Unknown # of shots.
 
f-class

my experience with sporter factory barrels is that i can shoot a good three shot group at 100 yards but i don't do as well at 200. in the f-class matches i shoot they are 60 shot for record unlimited sighters i could easily shoot 75 to 80 rounds. if you are shooting less than 2" at 200 and less than 3" at 300 for 5 shots you are good to go.
 
A Start

Can anyone give me some ideas for starting points with basic components that would be best?

Saw your post on the other forum, but I'll throw this out there. I am sort of in the same boat, but I have reloaded for years and know what shoots well in my weapon. I have shot one match, so that is my credentials. Heh Heh Heh. But, consider some basicss..

You will need lots of ammo that shoots well, and hits in the same spot. Unless you reload it will get more expensive real fast. So, since your friend will reload.... Be nice to him/her !!!!

A set of FL and a neck size only die (s)
Case trimmer

At least 100 brass cases. You want them all from the same lot. This pretty much precludes, unfortunately, buying loaded amm and resusing that. I don't think you are going to get 100 rounds from the same lot of loaded ammo.

I don't know who makes match quality win .270, so, try winchester or Remington. If friend has an electronic scale sort by weight, but not critical. You will need at least 100 bullets, pound powder, primers, etc. Berger and Sierra make accurate consistent .270 long range bullets. With new brass, full length size then trim to exactly the same length. Get the Sierra manual, read it. Start with their recommend accuracy loads. Mine from 15 years ago recommends the 4831 powders from IMR and Hodgon. Also, IMR 4350, and AA 3100 which is their accuracy load for the 135 SMK or Sierra Match King. Their starting load is 47.7 grains and their NTE is 54.7. A 7 grain spread, or 1 15% increase over minimum. The OAL, overall length with this bullet is 3.340 inches. Load up 5 each of 47.7, 48, 48.4 and so on loading 20 up to 54 grains. Don't be surprised if you have to pull the last couple of heaviest loads ...... Shoot 5 each at 100, take notes, write everything down, don't waste a shot or one second of time. Pick up the best load and tweak in .1 grain increments to find your sweet spot at that OAL. BY the time you have shot all 100 you should be on your way to figuring some of this out. Get a good cleaning rod, some cleaning solvent, correct patches, brushes, cotton patches.

I shoot 6.5-06 which is very similar to .270. Same case, but I start by necking up 25-06. Anyway, my tube likes well under max loads, and I don't care if I shoot 200 fps slower than what is acknowledged as the sweet spot for my bullet. Find yours.

Read everything you can on here and at http://www.accurateshooter.com/forum/index.php

read the articles there, even if they conflict. everyone does it a little different.

There are champion shooters on here that give way more qualified answers. Consider this a bump.

Always watch the wind. Even a 5 mph cross wind at 600 yards will humble you.

EDIT: BORE GUIDE !!!!
 
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my experience with sporter factory barrels is that i can shoot a good three shot group at 100 yards but i don't do as well at 200. in the f-class matches i shoot they are 60 shot for record unlimited sighters i could easily shoot 75 to 80 rounds. if you are shooting less than 2" at 200 and less than 3" at 300 for 5 shots you are good to go.

Why do you shoot 15-20 sighters?

At what Ranges are you shooting and how rounds many per relay?

The Rules state that sighters can be unlimited for the 1st Match but each Match there after is limited to 2 sighters, non convertable of course
 
.270 f-class

most matches are 3 20 shot relays. unlimited sighters on the first.
 
.270 bullets ?

I recently bought an old (60's) Sako Finnbear .270Win and my first load was 53gr of 4831 behind a 140gr Hornady Spitzer flat base. It shot .43" @ 100yds. with cases that hadn't even been fire formed to the chamber. By the way 53gr of 4831 is also the best load for my .280Rem custom rifle built on a Dixon/Howa "Fako" action using a Douglas Supreme #7 barrel. Built for me by Fred Huntington's Gunsmith in CA.

Today more than ever high quality components are available from the major manufacturers. Sierra Bullets is one of my personal favorites. The .224 52gr HPBT, the .284 160gr Spitzer BT, the .308 155gr HPBT, and the .308 165gr HPBT have all been at the top of my "small group" list for decades. And other shooters (many champions) in clubs I have belonged to agree.

I've heard horror stories about the inaccuracy of FACTORY .270 ammo. I don't know from experience since I've never fired any factory ammo other than some 9mm parabellum. But I have seen other bullets work well in the .270 as well. Of course for long range a heavy bullet with good balistic coeficient is best. I'm sure LaPua makes a Scenar bullet by now for the .270. But my guess is that 150 would likely be the best performer.

Although I own a Savage F/TR I haven't shot any "F" class matches, and likely won't. I bought it as a load test gun for 308. I also shoot a Howa Deluxe (stainless) that has been pillar bedded and an Armalite AR10-T. Both of which do well with the loads developed in the F/TR. All shoot sub MOA... on the order of half inch or less with Sierra 155's or LaPua Scenar.

I don't know if "F" class is open to .270, but that doesn't mean you can't shoot and experience great performance with other calibers.

Regards dhenzler@sonic.net

Fellas,

While out shooting yesterday to celebrate the warm weather, I agreed to go to an F-class match or two with a buddy if he decided to (he is interested). He has a nice Remington 700 (Tactical .308) that shoots well already, but the only centerfire I've got is a Winchester 70 .270. I can do a couple of things with the stock to help me out, but I have no idea where to start with regards to load development (I am not a reloader). However, it is feasible to reload with him (he has the necessary equipment) so I want to use it to my advantage. The rifle shoots well enough already (groups around 1" with Hornady ammo shooting prone over a rolled up jacket), so I am willing to use it a few times in matches in lieu of dropping a bunch on another rifle. I've got a Leupold 36x and Mueller 8.5-25x, so I've got enough glass too.

Can anyone give me some ideas for starting points with basic components that would be best? Anything in particular I should be aware of with this round? The barrel is a 1 in 10" twist. I realize the .270 isn't too popular in target shooting because of a lack of good bullets, but I can suck it up and accept some shortcomings for the sake of having fun.

Also, if anyone shoots F-class at Elk River, please drop me a PM.

Thanks!
 
Evan,

I also have a Winchester Model 70 .270. Several years ago, in anticipation of going antelope hunting out West, I did pretty extensive load development.

I found that Hodgdon H4831SC worked very well. All of my load development was with 130 gr. bullets and I tested quite a few. The best was the Sierra 130 gr. GameKing, with Sierra's 130 gr. ProHunter not far behind. Not surprisingly, bullet selection mattered quite a bit.

I don't know how much time you want to spend on load development, but I would suggest you start with a suitable powder (H4831SC is a good one) and some high quality bullets. I would start with Sierra and Berger. Sierra also makes a 135 gr. MatchKing and I'd definitely try it.

One other thing -- you should first decide what weight of bullet you want to start with. Shooting at long range in the wind, ballistic coefficient and wind drift become big factors. Check out the wind drift charts with different .277 bullet weights at the velocities one would expect to get with those weights -- that should help inform your decision. Sierra makes this easy, by publishing their charts on the web; for their 130 gr bullets see http://www.exteriorballistics.com/ebexplained/4th-rifle_tables/pdf/277130spt.pdf. That site also has charts for their other bullet weights.

Good luck and be safe.

Dave Rabin
 
Remember that the Berger VLD "hunting" bullets are just the old match bullets.

http://www.bergerbullets.com/Products/All Bullets.html

The 150 grain VLD has a ballistic coefficient of .531, and the 140 grain a B.C. of .487. Either should work on out to 1,000 yards.

Be aware that VLDs are fussy, try both jammed and jumped for seating depths. If jumping works, it will usually offer a wider window of seating depth, which is useful.

FWIW
 
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