1917

B

bartfrncs

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Can anyone Tell me how to make a P1914 action accurate its got a fair trigger and needs a barrel. Im really in need of all the tricks for this action. This rifle will be used to hunt Elk in the high country of Colorado. Any sugestions are needed no mater how small.
 
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Elk are big animals. The level of accuracy required is not all that great. A 1 moa rifle will allow one to hit elk reliably at any reasonable range. What chambering do you intend to use?
I think one has to want to use a P14 in order to do so since he could buy any number of new factory rifles for less which would work at least as well. Regards, Bill.
 
I think the same way Bill does...

Making it shoot m.o.a. is not a big deal...

Making it into a decent rifle... well you can buy a better rifle cheaper. It's a work of love... you have to love doing it or love the money you get paid for doing it...
 
1914

I know that I can do it cheaper, but already have most of the conversion done. Maybe a 7mm rem mag or 300 win mag. ;)
 
25mm/300metres

Friend of mine use to have a 1917 in 7mm Rem.Mag. that was shooting five 140gr, bullets into 25mm/300metres at 3450fps . The action and the bolt face was trued, glassbedded, resting in heavy fibreglass stock and had 30" full size barrel. Nothing else was done. Except for the scope arrangements, (thanks Lynn)

Shoot well
Peter
 
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I have

five P14s and P17s and just love them. I have one P14 in 300 Win Mag and before I shot the barrel out it was very accurate for a military conversion. A friend of mine, Tom Titcomb, converts P17s to Palma rifles and is very competitive with them.

For an Elk gun, just put a Timney trigger in it, re-barrel it with a good after market barrel and have fun. Those things were converted into African Big Game guns after they were retired from the military and they did great. A Stiller Tac or Predator action may make more sense but, I still shoot my old Enfields and love them.

Shelley
 
1914

I havent ever cut square Threads can anyone school me? I do all my own work. The tool geometry must be dead on I supose? 29.5 rest bla bla bla all the details would be nice. any help please this is a new action for me.
 
You can order a pre threaded barrel that is short chambered in any caliber you want. yOU WOULDN'T NEED TO KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT 29.5 DEGREES TO CUT A SQUARE THREAD. Jon
 
1914

Well A pre fit is not really the way I want to go dont think can dial in as accurate a barrel that way. Really looking for education.
 
PPP MMM said:
Friend of mine use to have a 1917 in 7mm Rem.Mag. that was shooting five 140gr, bullets into 25mm/300metres at 3450fps . The action and the bolt face was trued, glassbedded, resting in heavy fibreglass stock and had 30" full size barrel. Nothing else was done. Except for the scope arrangements, (
Click to expand...

Pretty damn good for what's, after all, a Mauser 98 stretched a tad.
 
Cut off the ears and fill the the big hole on the rear of the receiver, under the rear sight, heat treat, contour to rem. 700 dimensions, drill and tap for bases, square the face of the receiver, lap the lugs and bolt face, change bolt handle, extend the mag. well, install top quality barrel, install good trigger, bed the action, and you have a very good shooter. I have built several dozen for customers over the years and I like the 7STW for a caliber. With a good barrel and trigger (canjar set trigger if you can find one) you should have a sub 1 MOA gun.
I know it seems like a lot of work but the action is strong and you will have a real shooter when your done. This book will help http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/st...RATED GUIDE TO PRECISION RIFLE BARREL FITTING , its one we use for the apprentices. The book shows you how to cut the square threads and how to make the tools to do the above work, Heat treating is important to do as most of the P-14's were hard as hell. cut the ears off and grind them close to the contour, Brownell's used to sell a fixture for the lathe that changed the action contour to Rem.700, so you could use the Rem. scope bases, other wise you use the Rem. model 30 bases which can be hard to find. when welding the hole use a piece of 4140 to fill the hole then weld it in, leave the weld high, do not try to fill the hole with welding rod, it will warp the action. Use plenty of heat stop cream, and build the action mandrel and use it in the action while you weld it acts as a heat sink as well, you still might get some warping but you can take it out after heat treatment. Once the action is heat treated and straightened if necessary, square the face and contour the action, then drill and tap for bases, the book explains how to build the fixtures to blue print the action. How to chamber, and do the crown, the crown is very important to get right. I like to cryo the gun after heat treating and again after all machining is done but you can do it after the gun is done, then I send them to be hard chromed with a satin finish. I like a thumbhole laminated stock with a reinforced front sling mount for bi pod.
barrel $ 350
trigger $120 (Canjar)
stock $150 unfinished
stock for fixtures $30
action counter fixture $50
heat treat $40
cryo$60
hard chrome $130
5 shots 100 yds. same hole Priceless
yes it a lot of work but well worth it.
Good luck you have the makings of a very good long range rifle.
 
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