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Thanks for the info. Good thing it's just a $65 GM barrel. The next is a Shilen that will hopefully be the shooter. Never know, the GM may be a hummer in disguise ? ?

How are you guys going about getting the proper location/timing? I had a problem with clearance when I torque the barrel. The mistake I made was not torquing the barrel to index TDC of barrel. Other than that, was simple machining with a .125 x 1.5" slitting saw and indexer. Rotated 18° each...

How about make a tuner to fit? Haha. Almost finished. Weight needs marks engraved and detent grooves milled inside.

Thanks guys!

Yeah...tuner will be bored to match whatever. I figure it would be better for the tuner to shoulder on something?

Thanks for the replies. My plan is to slug the barrel to determine where to cut. I will turn down the .900 diameter to like .875-.880 for a slip on tuner.

Why are rimfire tuners slip on rather than threaded?

You want the light one.

304 can be drilled all day long with HSS drills. Depends on size... I will start with a small split point drill and flood hole with coolant. Make sure the point stays cool. Once you got a hole, step up in diameter. Speeds and feed is important. Most guys run way too fast and toast a bit in...

If you want a .250 wide slot, use the 3/16 EM and make it 1/4" wide. Never use an EM the same size you want to make the slot. It will blow it oversize and give you a crappy finish on the slot walls. Carbide likes high RPM. Rough slot with a hog mill and finish with 4 Flute. Both 3/16.

I have never had a barrel move after dialing in. Every chamber gets checked and the Interapid will let me know how it turned out. If it moves, there is a problem. It's all in the setup and the guy cranking the handles...

Is this not what you wrote? It's not true and my main point.

LOL...I'm not following your logic. You don't want to power the motor, but you want to power the lathe. What else needs power beside the motor? The hampster taking care of motor? Saying the VFD is not a reliable source to provide 3PH power is absolutely false.

Like I said...you have it wired wrong and won't work properly. So saying a VFD is not a reliable piece of hardware to control 3 phase motors is TOTALLY wrong. Many many people use them and IMO fantastic for controlling small machines. Rewiring is not that difficult...just a little thinking...

You obviously have something not wired right with your VFD set up. Something is wrong. Mine is wired up using 220 1P and out is going 220v 3PH running successfully. I power up the VFD and pull my apron switch lever and on comes the spindle. Reverse the lever, spindle goes in reverse. Got a...

I got a bunch...the more the better. I just hate changing tools and have to reset the height. Everyone is different and each has their own methods and ideas. Do what works for you...

Put a .125" dowel pin in base.

I like using a 3/8" shank Micro 100 boring bar. Turn it 45 degrees and make a few passes at high speed till you get your depth. Makes a clean fine finish.

Its supposed to. Should be a split nut with a set screw. Tighten it some to where it still works smooth without binding and will help with back lash some.

Like this? I was going to order one, but wasn't sure how true it would be...