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You sure you've got 12L14??? I have not found threads in 12L14 to strip out any more readily than those in mild steel. "What to you is moderate tension" is meaningless and condescending - threads have torque specs. Ignore them at your peril! That said, I've had no problem torquing male or...

That last photo looks like it's straight out of one of the 80's copy's of "ABC's of Reloading" - good memories. Thanks for that! GsT

Looks like mine are $9... I just checked, Hornady Amax are $9 / round!!!!. Good grief. I haven't had to purchase any in many years, but I certainly don't look forward to replacing my current inventory. I got rid of thousands of ball and AP pulls a few years back - might've been a mistake...

I'm still waiting for you to find out how much bullets cost... Oh, and ~17 rounds per pound of powder... ;-) **Everything** is bigger in the .50 world - especially the prices! GsT

Not that it means much... But here's a quick size comparison: (sorry, terrible pic, but enough to get the idea across) The difference between a small and large primer is nearly negligible compared to the difference between a large primer and a BMG primer. Again, I haven't tried it, but the...

Tagged for interest I've seen large primers bushed to small, but that's *quite* different to bushing a .50 primer to a puny LMR. I can't imagine it would work well (assuming a 'normal' BMG load), but I've been wrong before. There was that time in '87... ;) GsT

Spiralock So why not just go with the "Sprialock" thread that was Vaughn's solution? IIRC, the company that owns the Spiralock name only makes cutters for female threads, but you could sure grind a cutter for male threads (which they made back when Vaughn was published...). I'm assuming here...

Thanks Butch! I musta been looking the other way when you posted about this previously. Appreciate your repeating it. GsT

Very interesting! That is the first time I've heard anyone say that! Are there others? I'm curious how much brass prep you do, and how many cases is it that you're trashing? I apologize, that sounds a little like veiled criticism. It's not intended to be. All questions asked in earnest. GsT

Afaik, Nightforce is the only brand that warrants that their crosshairs are parallel to the flat on the bottom of the scope. GsT

I've been waiting for a correction to this post. There is no adapter in the world that will make a 1.5" diameter die fit in a 1.375" diameter hole. A quick measurement of one of my .50 dies is 1.492" - smaller than 1.5", but still well beyond fitting into your press (assuming you're correct...

About a bazillion years ago, I ended up with a small cottage industry converting their "standard" (7/8"-14) shellholder to work on the Hollywood Sr. reloading press. The owners of Hollywood were very much "over-promise and under-deliver" as well as being fairly useless to those ordering their...

Last I checked (it *has* been a while) the same was true with CH/4D. GsT

I have a Capri Model CP21075 that's 10-50 in lbs. Screwdriver style with a t-handle that snaps into the back for the higher settings. I'm very pleased with it. GsT

Vaughn's book is great, and I own a print copy, but where is this "free" version? You're pretty f****** smug about who understands what. A good rule of thumb is "If you think you're the smartest, or most knowledgeable, person in the room - you have a lot to learn...". Don't bother...

Holy cow can that author take a paragraph's worth of information and spin it into a wall of literary diarrhea! TLDR; Federal is going to make a lead-free primer, called "Catalyst", which they developed at the behest of the government, and they're hyping it. GsT

Al, your Cream of Wheat looks a might white to be cream of wheat... And the play-dough... is that just to hold it all together? Was your result close to a case fired in the same chamber? TIA, GsT

.50 brakes Mark Serbu's "Shark Brake" is about the best thing going, imo. Very effective at managing .50 recoil in "light" guns. The K&P Clamshell brake (imitated by Armalite on their .50) is very effective, but gi-normous and unfriendly to cases, bags, etc. GsT

Not nuts, but to do any better than your chamber reamer, you'd have to take a deep enough cut to get "under" the lands. Otherwise you may suffer the same chatter you're trying to avoid. You could drill out the lands, then go in with a chucking reamer, but at that point you could probably go...

Use a twist drill to open it up for your boring bar. Failing that, use a twist drill to remove the rifling for *almost* the length of the chamber, then use your tiny bar to get a chamber-taper started (which will guide your reamer) and you should be able to chamber without 5R-related chatter. GsT