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Make that 3.

For seating depth, I find the 'stripped bolt' method to be the simplest and most reliable. Once the 'T.P.' (touch point) is found for each bullet, that seating stem length gets written on a label that's pasted to the seater die box. Then the stem length can be easily and quickly changed by using...

There's no magic...other than shortening the neck length enough to allow for the length of the chamber neck 'collar' at the end of the plug. If that's not substantially thick, it can deform when you jam it in and close the bolt. I can live with .010-.015 neck length clearance.

Basically, you shorten the neck of a case about .100 and use a piece of softer material that's bullet diameter with a step on the end that's a bit smaller than neck diameter. You close the bolt, extract the case and measure from the back of the case to the front of the gauge. That's the total...

I'd encourage you to find out exactly how long your chambers neck length is. Knowing that will help you keep the cases neck length as long as practical to keep the area where carbon can build up to a minimum.

Dr. Tim, that's an excellent tutorial. I'd add that if it's a Savage trigger, burying it in said graveyard and then turning three complete revolutions counter clockwise over the remains will positively cure it. Out here, we'd use the Lakota chant "Hunka junka peeca tatanka* crappa". *bison

Great articles on your son and very glad to hear of his wife's recovery, sir. (y)

Rough crowd. ;) R.G, Mike B., Tom G. and myself drove down and shot the IBS Score Nats there years ago...cool range. Best of luck you guys...say "Hi" to your fellow travelers. -Al

A couple fingers of Tullamore Dew and a splash of ginger ale for me. https://www.tullamoredew.com/en-us/

Thanks for all you are doing. :)

Yes....Randy described it perfectly. I'd never thought of the stretch at 'frost line' from the core bleed by like a pinch trim process. But that's exactly what it is. Another interesting thing is how the 'frost line' fades over time.

Mike, thanks for an excellent explanation of your 'journey'. I've learned to check everything because everything matters. :) The ignition system is the biggest area that gets taken for granted. Just recently, I had a bolt that didn't open as smoothly as I knew it could. The problem was the...

Pete, I tried some dry moly aerosol on the inner side plates with mixed results. The NECO impact system for bullets may work well on the side plates. But once the side plates and internals are polished and deburred a bit, it's likely a solution in search of a problem. Just my 2 cents...

Pete, here's an exploded view of a Shilen Competition trigger. Photo courtesy of Stuart Otteson.

Whenever my guns go muzzle up in the safe, the chamber is plugged. Round makeup remover pads work great.

Here's a Shilen that I just finished up....didn't end up taking the side plates off this one. After cleaning it in acetone, I dunked it in CRC's Evapo Rust overnight. They come out squeaky clean and ready for a soak in lighter fluid. The roll pin for the third lever protrudes out the side a bit...

So true. The main R.I.N.O. in my state that ran for cover after the last Pres. election just announced his 'support' for the same person.

The Jewell triggers were an excellent product at what I considered to be an extremely reasonable price. If Jewell had done all of the tweaks (that you can do yourself at no cost) the price would likely have doubled. Most Jewell users simply put them in and went happily on their way winning...

Pete, Jackie Schmidt and Gene Bukys made some from Delrin. Jackie has posted pics of his. -Al