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I use a few squirts of Dawn dish washing detergent and a table spoon of Lemi Shine. That combination cleans very well. -Lee www.singleactions.com

It would probably work fine. But one thing to consider with the Lone Star - all of the weight is supported by the input shaft. That puts strain on the motor. Brass cases are plenty light, but 1,000 .30 caliber cores weighs a fair amount. Then again, I assume folks tumble rocks in those...

Larry Blackmon is the only one I know making BR quality bullet dies in steel: https://bulletswagingsupply.com/bssp1.pdf If I were you though, I'd call George Ulrich. His are carbide. Yes, they're more expensive that Blackmon's. But as Mike noted, carbide requires less lube and you won't...

Those are 0.925" jackets. Sectioning was done on a Bridgeport. How the bullet is held while cutting entails: 1) Take a block of wood and carve out a recess larger than the bullet 2) Epoxy the bullet into the recess 3) Secured the block in my Kurt vice 4) Before the epoxy completely hardens...

7 or 8 ogive dies will handle 0.925" and 1.00" (and probably longer too). For .30 BR and variants, most folks go up to 116 gr in the 0.925" and 116 - 125 with the 1.00"; give or take. The ogive also plays into what weight you shoot. While definitely not a written in stone rule, the higher the...

No. The bullet wire a lot of us use from Crown Metals is 0.75% antimony (ie, 99.25% lead). I've also squirted pure lead cores and they both work fine. You just don't want the wire to be too hard. -Lee www.singleactions.com

Spot on Jackie. And there's another advantage to using 17-4PH over 416......there's no oil quench when hardening. We switched to 17-4 on our Ruger cylinders years ago. As for our actions, all of them have been out of 4140. For no other reason than it's less prone to galling (that's dad...

I couldn't agree more Randy. The paper is the ultimate measuring tool. My bullet spinner is a neat gizmo, but I haven't used it in a long time. Same reason I've never bought a used Juenke. -Lee www.singleactions.com

Jackie - I have a friend who owns a Juenke. I may play with it out of curiousity. Like you, I can't definitively say what it measures. But if I had to guess, it asseses the runout between the inner jacket wall and the core. But that's just a guess. Also, a friend called and told me my...

I'm not sure who made it. I bought that spinner from a fellow BR shooter a few years ago. -Lee www.singleactions.com

A good bullet spinner, while not absolutely necessary, is another nice tool to have: -Lee www.singleactions.com

I agree Jackie. While I cut and squirt my own cores, I have used Charlie's when swaging for a friend. Every time I dig out the wire, I ask myself why I'm not just buying Hoods. When you add up your time, it's costing more to make your own. And his are dead on. The only advantage to having...

Al - I almost tried etching cores. Bought a colander and a box of TSP. Then I talked to George Ulrich and he said don't waste your time etching. Other bullet makers I've talked too have said the same. To degrease the cores, I like Coleman camp fuel. Works pretty well. -Lee...

I use 4 oz of Marvel Mystery oil mixed in a gallon of acetone. Automatic transmission fluid works too. Place the cores in a bucket that's been drilled with holes smaller than the core diameter. Dunk that in the 5 gallon bucket a few times and pour them into a large cooking pan. Let the...

The inserts are machined from tool steel and hardened. Then the tops and bottoms are surface ground. Core length is determined from the top of the bottom insert to the bolt stop. I've cut over 50,000 cores on it so far. Sheers as cleanly as it did when I started. If I get a chance, I'll...

John - no, ours couldn't be set-up to do that. The wire has to drop thru both the upper and lower inserts. Those do the cutting. The steel bars only house the cutting inserts. They in no way sheer the lead. -Lee www.singleactions.com

The steel bars have inserts which have been decked on a surface grinder. That gives each hole a fairly sharp edge. Plus we're only sheering lead wire. It's soft and the halves are tensioned under good force. They cut very clean. -Lee www.singleactions.com

I'm using a home built core cutter. It's ugly, but works. The two halves are tensioned with a Chevy SBC valve spring. I have separate inserts for 6mm and 30. Commercial cutters are available. I believe Corbin still sells them: http://www.corbins.com/corbin.htm -Lee www.singleactions.com

I'm a glutton for punishment and make my own cores (both 6mm and 30). Like Al suggested, call Crown Metals out of Milwaukee and order bullet wire. It's 99.25% lead, 0.75% antimony. That's what Charlie uses. You'll want 1/4" wire for .30. -Lee www.singleactions.com

That's why I cast bullets and reload for all of my handguns. Hoarding primers and powder in good times also helps. I'm shocked at what some of this ammunition is going for on Gunbroker. 45 ACP is bringing more than $1 a round. -Lee www.singleactions.com