Wilson seating die problem

308sako

308sako

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Wilson seating die problem Update: Success!!!

I guess I have been away from this type of shooting for too long I decided t break out the old tools and find that my seater dies stem is not moving in the die body. It was clean and working perfectly when put away, no signs of rust on the die. I am assuming that some of the brass jacket chips have somehow migrated between the stem and body, and become fused in place. Soaked the die in Kroil for 2 days, no luck... Escalating to Hoppe's now... suggestions please.


Thanks to all the suggestions, one of them actually worked... Soaked for an additional 24 hours in a carburetor metal cleaner of strength, and it easily drove out, cleaned up and working like day one.
 
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I recently purchased a Wilson 223 neck die and seating die from a guy at the gun show. The neck die was perfect and came with a bushing.......however the seating stem was so stuck I had to manufacture a punch and hammer the thing out, we're not talking little love taps either. I soaked it before hand with a few different types of "rust removers" and none of them worked. When I finally got the thing out it wasn't rust but old sticky lube that had essentially epoxied the seating stem in place. If you go the punch and hammer route just remember the seating stems are about $17 plus shipping. I was able to salvage the die with some polishing/lapping but I don't trust it to be in manufacturer tolerances any more. I got both dies for $10 so I'm not out much of anything. In fact I'm going to get a 30 caliber seating stem and ream the seating die for 30 BR anyhow. So in the long run I still made out like a bandit! Best of luck to you!!!!
 
The seating stem is fragile. Set the die on a solid base (vise) and hit the top of the stem holder sharply. Rest a small ball peen hammer on top and hit with another hammer. The double hit does wonders. This technique works very well on rusted brake drums. Let us know the results.
 
Considering the fact it could be old lube, soaking in kroil and the like will not work. BUT soaking in something like acetone, lacquer thinner or mek or possibly paint thinner. Each one can eat up diff things.
Soak for a couple of days.
Also if I am not mistaken the top can be detached from the seater stem on the top and can be struck on top to break it lose. Use a piece of wood or thick plastic on the top to protect the threads. You could even move the top up to create just enough space that you could use the die in an arbor press or a hammer.
 
This happened to my son's Wilson seaters' where a punch, and hammer would damage the dies'. I set up a small eletrolisis bath with a small trickle charger. The stems' came out by hand the next morning.
 
Vern said:
Considering the fact it could be old lube, soaking in kroil and the like will not work. BUT soaking in something like acetone, lacquer thinner or mek or possibly paint thinner. Each one can eat up diff things.

This I did not know... on it right away! Thanks...

Soak for a couple of days.
Also if I am not mistaken the top can be detached from the seater stem on the top and can be struck on top to break it lose. Use a piece of wood or thick plastic on the top to protect the threads. You could even move the top up to create just enough space that you could use the die in an arbor press or a hammer.
Click to expand...

Much appreciated
 
I have found that the seating stem is soft and is bellowing. After seating several thousand bullets, I started have probrems with the stem starting to bind. I measured stem with my caliper and found the end starting to bellow out. I used 800 grit sandpaper and sanded the end of the stem.....
I started having problems when it was taking more force to seat the bullets because I increased the neck tension
 
Dry it off real good and try some heat on it. Not saying go crazy and get it red hot but it is worth a try. If it is grease or lube or even some corrosion, the heat should help break it loose.

Joe
 
Heat seems to be about all I have left to try. Still soaking in the mineral spirits however. I have thought of trying to use the car jack, but perhaps the hammer blows offer more "freeing" power.
 
Mineral spirits has never impressed me with disolving power, however the various brake cleaners have.
It will take care of the wd-40 that seems to screw up triggers.
 
I wouldn't have faith in mineral spirits either. Intake cleaner or brake cleaner should dissolve the lub in minutes.
 
At this point its safe to say mineral spirits isnt the answer. As I said each one dissolves diff things.
Acetone is probably the strongest of that sort. Brake cleaner would also be a good choice. If you dont have any acetone around go find some in the wife's supply or just dig out the brake cleaner.
 
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