will this pump work/ flush system

skeetlee said:
please look at this link and tell me if this is enough pump to move cutting fluid through a barrel and past the reamer? I want to install a flush system on the new heavy 10. thanks Lee

http://www.ebay.com/itm/251733042974?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
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Depends upon your flushing system, fluid type, pressure requirements..........I am sure it could move enough cutting fluid past a reamer to lubricated it and flush the chamber, but there are much better setups to do this job. I noticed that it was previously used as a pool system pump, you will probably want to check it for corrosion deterioration.
 
Since there is little room between the bushing and the grooves and the flutes under the bushing, you need a gear rotor type pump that can produce a lot of pressure. I run about 100 psi but at least 60 should still work. The pump I used was a Sherwood CBN33VK $650 . You don't need a lot of volume but a lot of pressure. They are similar to the oil pump in a car engine. Some people have adapted car engine pumps for the flushing system. Make sure you rig a bypass and a gauge so as to control the pressure.
 
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I chamber on a Haas TL-1 and use the standard low pressure pump. 1/8 HP pump. I make a big enough mess as is and I can't imaging how far the oil would go if I had the high pressure system. I rough chamber with 3 flute JGS core drills. Then two passes with the finish reamer and I'm done. I don't need chip evacuation, just lubrication. If you're using the finish reamer to cut the entire chamber you're using the wrong tool for the job.
Look at Graymills pumps. With a 30% discount from MSC you can get the same pump I use for under $200. Get the right tool for the job.


Dave
 
Let me add I don't use filters. A turkey roasting pan with elevated slits in the side is under the barrel and acts as the first settling pond which also catches most of the chips. Then the cutting oil passes around and over magnets in the bed. Then another roasting pan on top of my tank which acts as another settling pan with a magnet and elevated outlet. Then I have the main tank. It isn't that complicated.
 
Not to de-reail Lee's thread, but I can't wrap my head around why much pressure is needed. Anyone ever tried rigging a 10-15 psi electric fuel pump up for this purpose? Any help understanding would be appreciated. They're cheap enough that I may try it just to see, unless someone can tell me why it won't work. Of course higher pressure pumps of this type are available as well. Thanks in advance.--Mike
 
I don't know why that wouldn't work but you would need a 12V power supply. Added confusion and what is the flow rate with say cutting oil. My pump has 3/8" fittings and I'll bet the fuel pump has 1/16" pipe fittings. I look at longevity as part of the decision making process. I'd rather have a pump that will run pretty much forever.

Dave
 
I have a Graymills gear pump with a 5 gal sump, spin on filter, and bypass that I can adjust the PSI. Came with my shop when I bought it.
 
Dave Tooley said:
I don't know why that wouldn't work but you would need a 12V power supply. Added confusion and what is the flow rate with say cutting oil. My pump has 3/8" fittings and I'll bet the fuel pump has 1/16" pipe fittings. I look at longevity as part of the decision making process. I'd rather have a pump that will run pretty much forever.

Dave
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Thank you, Dave. I agree on the longevity aspect. Electric pumps certainly don't last forever but replacement cost is low and simple....and I think life would be quite good if well filtered. I had a similar setup as your describe, in mind but with an filter of some sort. I have a 5 amp hour sealed lead acid battery in mind for a power supply, with a charger to keep it at or near full charge constantly. With this setup, a 10 amp draw would run a constant 30 minutes without any input from the charger. Of course a bigger battery would run much longer. A typical car battery would work for hours. I don't typically do strictly chambering for several hours on end in my business. There's plenty of opportunity for the battery to recover...most of the time. I could also run two batteries hooked parallel and double the run time.
I'm glad to hear you think the pump would suffice. I may just give it a try. Here's an example of a pump I'm talking about. It uses 3/8 npt fittings and has a 140 gph max rating.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/140-Gph-14-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a426094af&vxp=mtr
 
the pump in the link is a rotary gear pump. thus the reason I am asking about it. this pump new with the motor is 500+ . This pump is rated at 100PSI and something like 7.5 GPM Lee
 
skeetlee said:
the pump in the link is a rotary gear pump. thus the reason I am asking about it. this pump new with the motor is 500+ . This pump is rated at 100PSI and something like 7.5 GPM Lee
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Easiest and best way to go flush system is to use existing compressor system to pressurize a fluid container, plumb container to barrel, no need to buy extra motors, pumps, regulators, plumbing, electrics etc.
 
Build or obtain a tank that can be sealed off, like an "air pig" for example. Install an outlet on the bottom for the oil-to-lathe discharge. Fill the tank about 1/3 full of oil, then pressurize it to whatever pressure you think you want with your air compressor and have at it. Discharged oil at , say, 100psi is at 100psi whether it comes from a gear pump o this pressurized tank.

Tractor Supply has these air pig tank for about $25. The air pigs we have at the farm already have a bottom threaded hole to allow water drainage, just use that hole for your line to the lathe. Don't fill the tank over about half full so it will have an accumulator effect.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/webapp...logId=10051&storeId=10151&searchTerm=air+tank
 
jerry
I have had that very idea for a while now. I have a 5gal air bomb tank, as I like to call them. I just didn't know if 2 1/2 gal of fluid would be enough oil for a chamber, or if I would run out of pressure before I finished cutting the chamber??
 
jerry
I have had that very idea for a while now. I have a 5gal air bomb tank, as I like to call them. I just didn't know if 2 1/2 gal of fluid would be enough oil for a chamber, or if I would run out of pressure before I finished cutting the chamber??
 
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skeetlee said:
jerry
I have had that very idea for a while now. I have a 5gal air bomb tank, as I like to call them. I just didn't know if 2 1/2 gal of fluid would be enough oil for a chamber, or if I would run out of pressure before I finished cutting the chamber??
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Jerry has the design of the pressurized container flush system correct, in order to keep pressures continuous and constant just plumb and keep open a pressurized line to your compressor system so that the container is constantly fed during chamber cutting operations or add a pressure feed valve that will allow for periodic pressurisation of the fluid container as needed which will also reduce the flow of cutting fluid and save on fluid consumption.

I am like Dave Tooley, I rarely use my fluid flush system any more because it is much easier to use an air flush setup with periodic oiling, quality of the chamber cut is as good as a fluid flush cut without all the hassle of fluid capture and recirculation............Don
 
skeetlee said:
jerry
I have had that very idea for a while now. I have a 5gal air bomb tank, as I like to call them. I just didn't know if 2 1/2 gal of fluid would be enough oil for a chamber, or if I would run out of pressure before I finished cutting the chamber??
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Greg, if you decide to use a air tank system, if you will put an orfice of about 1/16" in the line this will keep the discharge in check while you withdraw the reamer. Personally I would rather use a squirt can than have oil all over the shop.
 
sdean said:
Have you guys with the air deal figured how to get the oil back in the tank? Another pump?
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Not to give a smarta$$ answer but how did you get it in the tank in the first place?

An air powered system would not be a closed loop system. If you have your process correct, when to turn on, when to turn off, etc. it shouldn't take more than a quart of oil at most to chamber a barrel. With a squirt can I use less than 1/4 cup to do a barrel.

Using an 11 gallon air tank, just fill it half way unless you are doing an constant air connection. Thats enough oil, using 1 quart per barrel, that a filling would do 22 barrels per fill. After all this isn't a gun-drilling operation that requires high pressure and high flow rate.
 
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