when is sanding too much

N

nipper

Guest
i have a claro walnut stock , exhibition grade second, i know to get out the obvious tooling marks, this is my attempt with 100 girt sanding pad, then onto 150, then 220 , then 320 , when is enough enough and you start using a filler to fill the grain , its it best to use a spray on sanding sealer..... any advise will help...

sand 003.jpg
 
Depends on what kind of finish you are going to use. For fine wood stocks, I prefer Pilkingtons modified English oil. You would use a colored finish (english red for example) and follow the directions for a beautiful finish without using a filler.
Mark
 
my plan was the old stand buy tru-oil as smooth as possible
 
The advantage of using tru oil with no stain is that if some tooling marks show up when you start sanding let it dry and sand it some more. Not much chance of a mismatched finish.
 
I have a friend who makes stocks. He final finishes after sanding by scraping with Gem blades, but I suspect that would be something of a challenge for the novice.
 
Just something to ponder,
.....back in the day I never used filler. When the surface was at or close to applying finish I would cut TruOil 1/3 with mineral sprits, apply wet and sand it into the wood with 320/ 400 until it was thick. Do the whole stock and let it dry, re-sand, clean and check for fill, if not filled repeat the same process until you have worked the slurry into the pores and filled. At some point rub off the excess cross grain with a rag before it is too dry and let it sit until dry then lightly sand with fine grit, this way it will only take one or two coats of final finish. The stock never changes color because your filler comes from the wood you are working with, the finish whatever you use is soaked into the pores as is the filler you are making.
Not really hard to do but one drawback, if you checker the stock afterwards the checkering tools will dull fast from the sanding grit that is pushed into the pores.

Rick
 
If this stock is going to be used and you finish it with Tru-Oil let me be the first to suggest an "English" or "hand-rubbed oil" type matte finish....

I've built several rifles using exhibition grade seconds from Fajen and Calico finished to high gloss with Tru-Oil.

They failed.

Over time and usage the finish cracked in the highly figured areas. IMO Tru-Oil works best rubbed in deeply and left thin on the outside, definitely not sprayed on thick like some of the newer finishes.

Maybe not even relevant, just my experience.

al
 
After putting on enough coats of Tru-Oil is there any wax or last coat of something to achieve a harder surface? One that is less prone to scratch.
 
Hunting rifle? or Target rifle?
Target I now use Helmsman Spar Urethane in the matt finish, last coats spray it on and stick it in an oven at 150 Deg. for 2 hours comes out hard as a rock, it will rival the two part auto finishes. I use a cardboard box, heat gun and a lead pot thermometer to regulate temp, real high tech. The matt finish comes out so slick it is hard to hang onto.
Helmsman Gloss is just the opposite, the surface has very good grip even after scuffing the shine off with steel wool.
I also cut the first coats with something to get it to soak in deep.
I have quit using all oil stock finishes unless matching something in that time period.
If you want something you can touch up easily after a season of use spray it with clear lacquer, 400 sand paper the scratch and blend, air brush the spot with some lacquer, 600 grit paper and rub it out with compound, would maybe take an hour to refurbish.

Just stuff I have done, in fact I still have a hunter in lacquer that was done in the early 90’s.

Rick
 
Don't forget to dewhisker. I hang my stocks from a ceiling hook attached to a disco ball rotator, and shine a 150 watt flood bulb on the stock as it goes around. Satin Helmsman spray can will do four coats in about one hour. Oh, and an exhaust fan hood is nice, too.
 
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