Welding barrel to reciever?

[Old Gunner]

If just a slight play, could a build up of Nickel plating on the shank tighten it up?
Regular plating is pretty thin, but from what I've read electroless Nickel can be built up fairly thick, and often exceeds the strength of steel.


High Force 44 silver solder is another possiblity, it has a high tensile strength and holds like a drowning cat.

 

[J. Valentine]

I have a Savage 17 hmr that is so-so accurate. I removed the action from the stock and put the reciever in a bridgeport vise. I put a dial indicator on the barrel about 12" from the reciever. By grabbing the end of the barrel I can easily move the indicator .010" in either direction. The issue here is when pulling the barrel in either direction, the indicator fails to return to "0" by a couple of thou. Now. seeing that we are only talking about a $200 rifle anyway, and I've got over thirty years experience with a tig welder, what are your thoughts on running a pretty little bead around the barrel/reciever. The one problem I foresee is by running a bead aroung a tube (barrel) the contracting weld may tighten the O.D. of the barrel in the case/neck area a bit. Any horror stories on this one? BTW, the weld isn't as permanent as it may seem either, five minutes on a lathe would removed the weld.

DO that and you have a NO dollar rifle.

 

[WILDCATER]

Weld?? I dont know that that would be the move I would make, I had this dillema with a 10/22 and a douglas barrel, after not being happy with the so so fit, and the come here clamp! I took it down and cleand the barrel tenon and the action area and used K-poxy, It is now permanent and instead of 1/2" to 3/4" groups being its best at 50 yards, that little rifle will keep 10 shots in 1/4" when I can do my part, but I hope I dont need to get it apart. If you believe in MARRIAGE go for it I think it would help, just remember, MARRIAGE is suposed to be for ever!! Good luck!