Warner Tool

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wnroscoe

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I was over on his site today looking around. The barrel threads and all of his other machining looks like it has a mirror finish, just curious how you would get such a great finish on the threads without polishing. I know, skill, I'd just like to know. Looks great.

Warner-Tool
 
It probably has more to do with using a flash or the lighting when the photo was taken, not to take anything away from the obvious quality of the work done. I think the flash is what's causing the shine on the photo or the reflection from ambient lighting. The work done looks as good as it comes. Dull surfaces don't reflect lighting whether it's from flash photography or from whatever lighting is in the room. The surfaces on the barrel threads, cone and barrel shank are obviously anything but dull and very well machined.
 
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Mike...

I rebarreled a Palma rifle that Warner had built for one of the Kansas City shooters last summer, and was really impressed by the quality of the finish of the tenon & threads of the pulled barrel. The threads actually had a mirror-like finish, and I also had to wonder how Alan & Dan manage that, given the appearence of the threads I typically cut. I've never used a HSS threading tool - started out with Top-Notch carbide inserts, and still use them interchangeably with lay-down style inserts. Is it possible to get this fine a finish on threads with a HSS tool?
 
I asked a prior Tool & Die Maker I know the same question last night. His reply, water polishing and HSS. They turn the lathe down to 18-20 rpm and use HSS tools. He also said that a small lathe would never do this. I dont know what his definition of small is but, he told me of a lathe he had to ride once in order to operate it. Mr Warner is producing some very fine work no doubt.
 
I thought machining 416 stainless should end up with at least a near mirror finish on the threads. I use a valenite TiN coated insert with a 5 degree positive rake. I also use 5w20 motor oil with a little marvel oil mixed in and the finish comes out mirror like. My lathe is just a cheap old Grizzly.
 
I thought machining 416 stainless should end up with at least a near mirror finish on the threads.

That's right. The correct insert and the right fluid is all it takes.

End float on the leade screw is important, and so is the condition of the gears driving it. We got rid if one lathe because the gears where worn out ( a new leade screw did not remedy all of the problem) and cost more than the entire machine was worth. I got enough out of it to tool the new Wacheon.

We have another that has the same problem. For now, I change out one of the drive gears in back and use a combo that amounts to 75% of what the thread is I'm cutting. Thus avoiding the ugly set in the gear box. PIA, but it works till we can buy another.

HTH

Alan
 
Nah,
I'm all done sharing most of what I've learned over 40 years.

if you want to come work for me, I'll teach you everthing I know, If your capable. I can tell if that holds true in about 3 weeks. Pay is comensorate (sp) with knowledge.

If a day goes by that you don't learn something, your either stupid or your not paying attention.

I got my last "atta boy" when the life support system for the moon launch kept them alive.

Alan
 
I can respect that

I still pay attention.
Part of my business is building air and hydrostatic bearings that are round and/or straight to 5 millionths.

That is why gun work takes second place in the pecking order, even though it is my first desire,??

How many guys do you know that do gun work can hone a hole to 10 mill.

Maintaining an atmosphere controlled room is not cheap.

Alan
 
Alan Warner said:
I can respect that

I still pay attention.
Part of my business is building air and hydrostatic bearings that are round and/or straight to 5 millionths.

That is why gun work takes second place in the pecking order, even though it is my first desire,??

How many guys do you know that do gun work can hone a hole to 10 mill.

Maintaining an atmosphere controlled room is not cheap.

Alan
Click to expand...


Wasnt trying to be a smart A$$, just saying, you do have it together, hope you didnt take it wrong. Your work speeks for it's self.
 
Whacheon Lathe

I have been using a Whacheon lathe like the one Butch Lambert referenced for the last couple of months. Very smooth solid machine. The owner says it is very reliable and seldom gives problems. Understand it is a Mori Seki clone made in South Korea. Parts interchange with a Mori. It is quite long through the headstock, more than 30 inches if I remember correctly. Thought it would be much too long to chamber barrels through the headstock. I found a used one for sale, but haven't followed up due to the headstock length. Any thoughts? Vic
 
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Try to find an old thread by Jackie Schmidt as his lathe is long in the headstock. Mike Bryant has a setup for his as his is too long in the headstock. Several ways to do it in the headstock even though it is very long in the headstock.
Butch
www.shadetreeea.com
 
Vic

In another thread you might look at "internal spindle bushing material" Jim Borden posted a picture of a clever way to deal with long head stocks.

Hal
 
Whacheon Lathe

Butch and Hal: thanks for the fast replies. I remember reading Mike Bryant's post about the modifications to his Kent. I believe he drilled and tapped the spindle to make a spider. Since the Whacheon is a much larger machine (18X60) with a much longer spindle, I don't think that approach would work. It would probably interfere with the gears or other gearbox internals. I remember seeing Jackie Schmidts' and Jim Bordon's posts on the subject, but can't remember the details. I'll try a search. Thanks, Vic
 
Vic,
There are no gears in the spindle bore. Mike's present lathe is too long in the headstock for a spider. You may have seen a previous post.
Butch
 
Butch, I drilled and tapped the spindle on my Kent and it will handle all full length barrel blanks. When I have to do something different is when I chamber short benchrest barrels that are cut out of the center of the barrel blank to make weight. I made a tight fitting dead center with a piloted bushing that slips into the spindle using one of the set screws that is tapped into the rear of the spindle to keep it from moving. The pilot is just to keep the barrel from falling off the center when adjusting the other end. The spindle was reamed with a shell reamer and run out is about .0005" inside the spindle. I've not seen that using the dead center in the spindle makes any difference in how the barrels shoot over being able to indicate them in at both ends.
 
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