Threading a barrel for a brake

7

7BR

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I need help picking a gunsmith to install a muzzle brake. With ya being gunsmiths I can trust the info I get here. I`m thinking, a HARRELLS or VAIS. I would like to find a smith here in the Houston area. Save the cost of shipping. My question is, is cutting threads on a barrel ( basic gunsmithing 101 ) or do I need to find a BR level gunsmith. It`s a target gun & I don`t want to loose any accuracy. If ya know of a good smith here in Houston, that will solve the problem. If not, what questions do I ask him ? Everything I have read leads to the instalation as being the most critical. Also, It`s a DOUGLAS barrel, .about .850 @ the muzzle with a slight taper, I guess I need a 1" brake & have it tappered down to my barrel dia. Can someone, walk me thru the steps required to do the job right. Thanks for the help
 
search the home page for a list of gunsmiths. Mike Bryant is in Texas, and can do such a job with his eyes closed (almost). Unfortunately, he's about as far away from you as he could be and still be in Texas. :(

Contact this outfit, and ask him for a recommendation, if he doesn't do this sort of work himself. He's based in Webster. http://www.vandenbergcustom.com/
 
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I install brakes and adapters for suppressors. I use the same procedure for brakes as I do for chambers, making sure the bore is perfectly centered and shoulder is square.

I then bore to 15 over bore size. I then single point the threads and that's it.

I have used a lot of Harrell's brakes. Harrell's are about $35 and VAIS about $100.



I do not do work for the public.
 
Brakes and suppresors need to be installed as if doing a chamber. Bore must be indicated in so that there are no baffle strikes. Cant be done reliably between centers unless the brake or suppressor has a lot of bullet clearance, but then it dosnt work as well as it should.
 
BTW this is where Gordy's method really shines :) For all the variation you'll find back at the chamber end it's tripled out on the skinny end.
 
Pete Pipr @ Precision Barrle Works under the Gunsmiths section. He is in Hempstead jest northwest of Houston 979 826 2563.
 
MilGunsmith said:
Brakes and suppresors need to be installed as if doing a chamber. Bore must be indicated in so that there are no baffle strikes. Cant be done reliably between centers unless the brake or suppressor has a lot of bullet clearance, but then it dosnt work as well as it should.
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I'm not sure why you would not want to do brake work between centers. I swing the barrel between centers, cut the threads, install a steady and run it (on the threads if necessary) while I clean up the crown. I taper the end of the brake to match the barrel diameter, usually using the max taper that I can set -- I use the taper attachment for that with the brake held in a collet. I follow the brake manufacturer's instructions as to opening up the brake, but I generally use a reamer that is 0.020 over bore diameter.

Clemson
www.boltandbarrel.com
 
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