Tapered tenons?

[alinwa]

Well yes of course, i read Vaughn'd book as well, and without a doubt both you and he are correct about the increase in thread engagement.
No doubt that in your specific circumstance, with such a large cartridge, and such a short tenon that having more (or all) of the threads make contact would be a worthwhile endeavor, at least in terms of added peace of mind.

Perhaps a better question to ask then is, for an average 1.062" x 18 or 16 TPI tenon, do you think that increased thread engagement will result in a stronger or stiffer joint, considering the relatively low torque we use to put barrels on? And more importantly, would that translate into measurably better accuracy/precision?


Cheers
Lee

In my case it's not about "strength" as in "stronger" joint at all. It's about accuracy.....period

And it's ALL about the typical 1.062 tenons. I have no opinions re the large BMG tenon it was just somewhat shocking to see the short tenon That said I certainly did NOT taper that short little stubber. Nor am I worried about ultimate yield but if I rech my accuracy goals I'll feel good.

 

[alinwa]

So why not just go with the "Sprialock" thread that was Vaughn's solution? IIRC, the company that owns the Spiralock name only makes cutters for female threads, but you could sure grind a cutter for male threads (which they made back when Vaughn was published...). I'm assuming here that you have control over the barrel, but not the receiver.

GsT

I have no interest in the Spiralock threading system. IMO it's a poor solution for me.....As in many other situations I'm less interested in Harold's solutions than in his work in the isolation of the problem(s). Harold tried a lot of fixes I'll never try. And was trying more when he passed, a lot of it stuff we disagreed on, stuff I didn't think would work.


IMO the tapered tenon solution is elegant.

I LIKE elegant.









One of the things Harold was fixated on was "heavier, yet looser/floppier as in 'less stiff' barrels...." One of his solutions was that he was actively pursuing was bonding lead to steel, "sheathing" barrels in lead to increase weight while decreasing working rigidity. I thought this solution was silly (still do) and suggested instead that turning weakening slits could perhaps do the same thing???

Or adding weight to the fore end???

(I've pursued the latter avenues, never even considered the former although I do have a bunch of lead golf tape)