Take a look at what is recommended for locking lugs in this article. Opinions?
- Thread starter Boyd Allen
- Start date
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Fireball Fred
Guest
Mr. Allen
i use that stuff (anti-seize) on the threads of my choke tubes. brush a ring around the threads on the choke tube. then wipe off excess with a paper towel. there is enough still in the threads so they never stick but it wont migrate into the bore.
as far as the locking lugs are concerned the worst is dry. next undesireable is oil as it doesnt last long and in certain conditions like dusty it can attract dirt and gum the action. grease, wax, anti seize, will all work. just some are less messy than others. what is being accomplished is to prevent galling the lugs in my opinion. what is yours? your tone was condeming but i didnt see any of your opinions.
Fred
i use that stuff (anti-seize) on the threads of my choke tubes. brush a ring around the threads on the choke tube. then wipe off excess with a paper towel. there is enough still in the threads so they never stick but it wont migrate into the bore.
as far as the locking lugs are concerned the worst is dry. next undesireable is oil as it doesnt last long and in certain conditions like dusty it can attract dirt and gum the action. grease, wax, anti seize, will all work. just some are less messy than others. what is being accomplished is to prevent galling the lugs in my opinion. what is yours? your tone was condeming but i didnt see any of your opinions.
Fred
John Kielly
Shari's fan club
I wonder. Back whe we first started to pay attention to locking lugs, about any grease would do. Most used yellow petroleum jelly because it was packaged in those little screw top tubs. The we advanced to lithium based greases with maybe a touch of molybdneum & these days we accept technicolor formulations that come prepacked in wicked little syringes. Have there ever been comparisons done on what works, what works really well for our purpose & what is snake oil (if any)?
Anyway, I'll stick with the syringes if for no other reason that I can toss one in all my range kits & know that it will arrive & be ready for use uncontaminated.
Anyway, I'll stick with the syringes if for no other reason that I can toss one in all my range kits & know that it will arrive & be ready for use uncontaminated.
Boyd Allen
Active member
I did not mean to seem condemning. Mr Holland is an experienced smith, of national reputation. It's just that his recommendation took me by surprise. It is new information...to me, but I thought that, along the way, I might have missed something that others are doing. Even if no one else is doing it, it could simply mean that he has discovered something that works well, and this is the first time that it has hit print. Indeed, we may all learn something worthwhile. I wonder how well it stays in place, and if it causes any problems if it gets into the chamber.
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nhkuehl
Guest
Lug lube
I can't say this is the best, but I use Gunslick graphite grease and a buddy uses bicycle grease, the stuff professional racers use on their chains, it's supposed to stay in place well(?). I think somebody mentioned hi-temp red lithium grease recently too. None of those are too thin I suppose and better than dry. I clean the lug recess every time and re-grease the lugs. nhk
I can't say this is the best, but I use Gunslick graphite grease and a buddy uses bicycle grease, the stuff professional racers use on their chains, it's supposed to stay in place well(?). I think somebody mentioned hi-temp red lithium grease recently too. None of those are too thin I suppose and better than dry. I clean the lug recess every time and re-grease the lugs. nhk
JerrySharrett
Senile Member
What ever lube you use, just a light film on the bolt lug contact surfaces is all that is needed. Put just a small dot on the tip of your index finger, then rub it flat with your thumb, Then use that slight smear on your finger tip on the lugs.
I see many shooters squirting grease directly from the syringe onto the lugs. This causes a buildup inside the action that will catch all the powder, grit and other assorted crap that can get into the action throat.
I see many shooters squirting grease directly from the syringe onto the lugs. This causes a buildup inside the action that will catch all the powder, grit and other assorted crap that can get into the action throat.
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Dennis Sorensen
Guest
I have moved on to use 'dead center grease' it is stickier than anti-seize and appears cleaner to look at...
I put a little on a lug and 'flatten' it out with a knife blade and wipe away the excess...
I put a little on a lug and 'flatten' it out with a knife blade and wipe away the excess...
Pete Wass
Well-known member
I tried Antiseize a couple of years ago
and I found that before the end of the day's aggs the antiseize had dried up and was missing. I quit using it.
Last year I used STP most of the time on my lugs. It clings to the lugs well but is an attractant, if that is a word, of dirt and other FOD. I have always found that every type of grease I used simply wiped off after a few shots and as someone else mentioned, made a mess on the lug abuttments.
Several years ago I bought some red liquid that was suppose to impregnate warm metal surfaces and leave a bond and lubricated surface that would last and last. I used it in some barrels and it appeared that it changed the way the rifles shot.
A couple of years ago I applied it to the lugs of a 700 Rem's lugs and it did seem to leave a shiny surface on them. I have used the rifle in a couple of matches and so far, the lugs are still shiny. I am on the road so I can't tell ya the name of the product, sorry.
I bought a tube of the red Lucas grease this winter to use for various things. We'll see how that goes. I am not optamistic.
and I found that before the end of the day's aggs the antiseize had dried up and was missing. I quit using it.
Last year I used STP most of the time on my lugs. It clings to the lugs well but is an attractant, if that is a word, of dirt and other FOD. I have always found that every type of grease I used simply wiped off after a few shots and as someone else mentioned, made a mess on the lug abuttments.
Several years ago I bought some red liquid that was suppose to impregnate warm metal surfaces and leave a bond and lubricated surface that would last and last. I used it in some barrels and it appeared that it changed the way the rifles shot.
A couple of years ago I applied it to the lugs of a 700 Rem's lugs and it did seem to leave a shiny surface on them. I have used the rifle in a couple of matches and so far, the lugs are still shiny. I am on the road so I can't tell ya the name of the product, sorry.
I bought a tube of the red Lucas grease this winter to use for various things. We'll see how that goes. I am not optamistic.
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Fireball Fred
Guest
i checked the name Pete
Lucas oil company calls it "Red and Tacky #2." the ad said it is fortified with anti-seize and is especially a high pressure grease with a high timken load rating that is good for smooth and shearing surfaces. the smallest quantity is14.5 oz. tubes. stores that were listed are tractor supply and on the net at amazon.
Fred
the ad sounded pretty convincing to me. one could get empty syringes(i believe brownells or midwayusa sells these) and fill them. it probably looks like the stuff shooters choice sells in their syringes. that is red and sticks well.
Fred
Lucas oil company calls it "Red and Tacky #2." the ad said it is fortified with anti-seize and is especially a high pressure grease with a high timken load rating that is good for smooth and shearing surfaces. the smallest quantity is14.5 oz. tubes. stores that were listed are tractor supply and on the net at amazon.
Fred
the ad sounded pretty convincing to me. one could get empty syringes(i believe brownells or midwayusa sells these) and fill them. it probably looks like the stuff shooters choice sells in their syringes. that is red and sticks well.
Fred
Wayne Shaw
Active member
I quit using anti-seize on barrel threads, and I wouldn't use it on lugs for the same reason. No matter how careful I was, that damn stuff got on everything, smeared, hard to clean off, etc. I use a red high pressure grease on barrel threads and shoulders now, and the stuff Kelbly sells for lugs. One small dab on each lug at each relay. I know it has to go somewhere, and I use those dental rolls on a stick to twirl around up in the lug area.
You want something to stay put, use chain saw bar lube. That stringy stuff sticks to everything. Aside from a saw, I use it on my lathe ways.
You want something to stay put, use chain saw bar lube. That stringy stuff sticks to everything. Aside from a saw, I use it on my lathe ways.
Bob Kingsbury
New member
Seems that anything sticky enough to stay attracts dust etc.
I don't know how you can get away from it. Some engine assembly
lubes have staying power and work well. I use Stp as it remains longer
When applied sparingly it is no more messy than anything else. I put
this in a visine eye drop bottle and one bottle lasts 5 years.
I don't know how you can get away from it. Some engine assembly
lubes have staying power and work well. I use Stp as it remains longer
When applied sparingly it is no more messy than anything else. I put
this in a visine eye drop bottle and one bottle lasts 5 years.
I have a hundred bolt actions, and have not seen any galling on the lugs yet.
I bought a Cricket 22 rifle for my son when he was a tyke.
My father was chief engineer of a Fortune 500 company for 40 years and has dozens of gun patents.
He saw the galling between the firing pin and bolt body in the Cricket and yelled at me. He is really good at pounding no table tops and yelling at the same time.
He says that moving parts with galling is from poor design. He says rubbing steel parts should not be of equal hardness or there will be galling. The wife took the rifle back to the store.
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Who Me?
Guest
You could probably get those syringes right in the veterinary department at Tractor Supply where you bought the grease. I've bought 60 cc syringes at our local farm supply store to use for injecting grease into the differential on my shaft-drive motorcycle.
Had some galling in my Panda lugs from sand blowing into them during some matches at Ben Avery Range at Phoenix, AZ a few years ago. Just barely got finished. Got back to NC and cleaned everything up, stoned the bolt lugs a bit, pulled the barrel and cleaned and stoned the lugs on the action a bit and haven't had any problems since. I use a light coat of moly grease on the lugs. I'd be very interested if someone had a "cure all" for lug galling though.
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alpacca45
Guest
There was a recent thread over at practical machinist about white lead (lead carbonate) being the best lube any of the guys had found for dead centres.
Aparently the stuff is available as an artists pigment, but it is easy enough to make, by suspending a small jar with lead in it, in a bigger jar with vinegar in the bottom, and leaving a small openning at the top of the bigger jar for carbon dioxide to get in. The vinegar fumes react with the lead, giving soluble lead acetate which reacts with CO2 in the air. The white, insoluble coating that forms on the lead is the carbonate. (don't use hydrochloric acid, as lead chloride is insoluble - you won't get the carbonate that way).
I'd been using a tiny smear of moly grease (for car constant velocity joints) on lugs, cams and mauser extractors. I'm going to try lead carbonate now.
Aparently the stuff is available as an artists pigment, but it is easy enough to make, by suspending a small jar with lead in it, in a bigger jar with vinegar in the bottom, and leaving a small openning at the top of the bigger jar for carbon dioxide to get in. The vinegar fumes react with the lead, giving soluble lead acetate which reacts with CO2 in the air. The white, insoluble coating that forms on the lead is the carbonate. (don't use hydrochloric acid, as lead chloride is insoluble - you won't get the carbonate that way).
I'd been using a tiny smear of moly grease (for car constant velocity joints) on lugs, cams and mauser extractors. I'm going to try lead carbonate now.