Sticky Cases

D

Darryl Duke

Guest
I recently purchased a used 6ppc and took it out for the first time yesterday. The brass was clean when I started and after four reloads it started to stick when I tried to pull the bolt back, but it was no problem to lift the bolt. The chamber is .262 and the loaded rounds mike .260 Load was 29 gr N133 CCI BR4 primer and Bruno "00" fb .001 off the lands. Is this normal? I have cleaned them with a little 0000 steel wool to knock the residue off but haven't fired it yet. This is my first ppc and any info would be appreciated. And the chamber was also clean.
 
Sorry, I didn't think about that. I'm using an arbor press, Wilson neck sizer with a .259 bushing. Wilson micro seater. Brass oal is 1.491-1.495. The gun was built by Gary OCock.
 
You should bump the shoulders back a thou or so. When only sizing the neck the cases eventually get a little sticky on extraction.
 
Thanks I'll give it a try. I'm dying to go shoot it again but it's a cruddy day today. It does shoot fairly well, 10 group agg of .28 I have no idea how many rounds have been run through it, you know how that goes when someone is selling a used gun.
 
Disagree

If the bolt opening is fine but sticks at the top of the throw, it is usually a sign that the brass is too large at the web or just old brass.

you have two choices - full length resize....which is better in my opinion than neck size only anyway, or use new brass.

I will assume the brass you are using came with the rifle and is used. The condition you describe is usually described as a "click" at the top of the bolt throw. It won't hurt anything - its just a PITA. If the brass is old enough, even full length resizing won't fix it - eventually you just have to get new brass.

try full length resizing it first, if that doesn't do it - make some new brass and keep full length resizing from now on.

Scott
 
Darryl Duke said:
I recently purchased a used 6ppc and took it out for the first time yesterday. The brass was clean when I started and after four reloads it started to stick when I tried to pull the bolt back, but it was no problem to lift the bolt. The chamber is .262 and the loaded rounds mike .260 Load was 29 gr N133 CCI BR4 primer and Bruno "00" fb .001 off the lands. Is this normal? I have cleaned them with a little 0000 steel wool to knock the residue off but haven't fired it yet. This is my first ppc and any info would be appreciated. And the chamber was also clean.
Click to expand...
If you have any serious PPC shooters around you, borrow a Harrell #2 or Harrell #3 full length die.You can send some fired brass to them and they can determine which die you need (about $65). Or, take the gun to a BR gunsmith who makes custom f/l dies (about $150 or so).

I'm with the others, you need a proper f/l die. Your 29g V133 load is not real hot, as some shoot, but it is hot enough to require full length sizing. Full length sizing is a good habit to get into on the PPC.

A few years ago everyone used a Wilson neck die then occasionally crammed the cases into something like a Forester small base die. Eventually most everyone found out, get a good f/l die for your chamber and stay with it.

In the meantime lube the cases with a very slight film of Imperial wax or a good case lube. Very slight. This is not a permanent fix but Wednesday is supposed to be some warmer, then it turns cold again.
 
The gun did come with a f/l die. It doesn't have any markings on it though. I put a case in the press and ran it all the way up and started screwing the die in till it made contact. Wound up screwing the die in till it almost touched the ram and then the bolt closed easily. I thought just neck sizing would do it, well you live and learn. I'll try to make it out tomorrow and see how she does. Thanks for all the help everyone...
 
Watch your headspace!

Darryl,
The proper way to set up your bump die is to disassemble the bolt,then chamber some big tight cases with just the bolt body, you will feel how tight they are! Run a case through your backed off(.020 or so) FL die then chamber it again.How does it feel? Keep screwing the die down and trying the case in the chamber until the bolt handle drops with just a very slight resistance from the case.Thats where you want to be.
I like to set up my FL die with about .020 of Skip Otto's shims(sinclairs has them),that way the lock ring is locked down and all you do is add or subtract shims to make your adjustments.
Too much headspace is bad for accuracy and way too much headspace will blow primers.
Joel
 
Darryl - STOP!

Not knowing more than "the bolt closes easily" is extremely dangerous. You may have pushed the shoulder back too far getting to the tight spot. Check the base to shoulder measurement of an unsized case and compare it to the sized case. With brass fired several times, two or three thousandths difference is starting to be too much.

Too much on the shoulder can cause a case separation and that ain't ever good.
 
Here's how I bump back the shoulders. I use a Harrells FL die and the cool little bushing they include with the sizing die [ the use thereof I had to have explained to me :eek: ]

Harrellsbushwithcaseandcalipers.jpg

harrellsbush.jpg
 
crb said:
Here's how I bump back the shoulders. I use a Harrells FL die and the cool little bushing they include with the sizing die [ the use thereof I had to have explained to me :eek: ]

[/IMG]
Click to expand...

Many folks say to use the shoulder gage to bump with. I still think the best way is what Joel described above, go by the feel of a stripped bolt. In any instance have a way to measure the amount of bump, like Wilbur says....not to do so could be dangerous.
 
amendment to my previous post

Darryl, Yes ,Wilbur and crb are correct,you should also measure the amount of bump ,I use a barrel stub chamber gage made by my gunsmith.The Harrells bushing works as does the Wilson chamber gage. Ideally a .001 bump on the shoulder is sufficient.I am assuming we are talking about new brass made for and fired in your chamber three or four times. If the brass is work hardened or from another gun the "feel" method dosn't work too well .Get new dedicated brass for your gun.Shoot it a couple of times,measure with bump gage,set up die with the feel method then measure again,you should find a .0005 to .001 bump. The reason I like the feel method is because in this game you gotta feel a lot of things,shoulder bump,bullet seating depth,bolt closure,triggers,wind on the back of your neck,etc.
Joel
 
Ray, thanks for the pics, I also have a bushing just like that but didn't know what it was for. I assume it works like my bullet comparator does. I need to figure out how to upload some pics so ya'll can look at this stuff.

Roy, there are shiny rings 3/8 of an inch up from the base after they come out of the f/l die where it's sizing the web.
 
Here is the die and bushing that came with the gun and a pic of a couple of sized cases showing the rings above the web.
 
Pics didn't attach the first time.
 

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That’s a Harrell’s die. It should have a number on the bottom. Is it a 2 or 3?
 
Mentor

Darryl

You got everything you need to make it work now. All you need is a mentor or just someone that can meet you at the range and spend a hour with you to show you how it all works.

Its really easy once you do it once.

Or go shoot in a match - take all your stuff with you. By the time the match is over, you be an expert (or about as expert as any of the rest of us think we are).

Scott
 
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