SSG True Bore Alignment System

The ball socket is pretty ingenious. You should be able to chamber a short barrel without adding an extension to reach your back spider.

I'm in the process (very slow process...) of setting up my first lathe and have been looking at different ways of chambering a barrel. Due to cost I will probably build a couple of spiders and wish I had one of these :)
 
I've seen one in use (at SSG) and was so impressed with the capability it has to hold work stress free.
IMO -they are state of the art and a must have for holding/chucking totally stress free, as is so desired in gunsmithing for barreling and action truing.

Donovan Moran
 
expain that to me.... as i see just the opposite..the tooling adds length to the chuck meaning harder to do short bbls supported by a outboard spyder....

mike in co
The ball socket is pretty ingenious. You should be able to chamber a short barrel without adding an extension to reach your back spider.

I'm in the process (very slow process...) of setting up my first lathe and have been looking at different ways of chambering a barrel. Due to cost I will probably build a couple of spiders and wish I had one of these :)
 
Mike,

Take a look at the second video with the six jaw chuck. If you have a short barrel you may not need to support the outboard end of the barrel in the spindle since it is held by the chuck itself. Although you may still have an unacceptable amount of deflection in the barrel bore due to the overhang. Just a thought...

expain that to me.... as i see just the opposite..the tooling adds length to the chuck meaning harder to do short bbls supported by a outboard spyder....

mike in co
 
well me thinks one must define "short bbl"
this is a benchrest site with rifle shooting.....so i believe most are talking 20 plus inches and certainly not under 16.
i cannot see that much bbl being supported at a single point ...2-3" in lenght with 15" or more flopping in the breeze....
too much length, too much mass, too much speed...
mike in co
Mike,

Take a look at the second video with the six jaw chuck. If you have a short barrel you may not need to support the outboard end of the barrel in the spindle since it is held by the chuck itself. Although you may still have an unacceptable amount of deflection in the barrel bore due to the overhang. Just a thought...
 
Not seeing why this is better than a jig for action truing. If your stressing the action to align it then you are not using the jig properly. Even if I had one for free instead of paying $1140 dollars, I would use my jig.
For barrel work it is effective but I can buy a lot of copper wire [pivot point method] for the price of that item.
 
it was not a sarcastic remark...one should not take stuff out of context.......
you said short bbl without outboard support...i was simply pointing out what "we" consider "short" on these forums.

mike in co

Thanks for the sarcastic remark...




Your point is taken and understood.
 
Nate is a smart fella and I think this system is great, and will work great for those who want it. But when truing an action in the jig, it's real easy to keep the action stress free. When you originally insert your truing mandrel through the bushings that have been fit to the receiver (PTG style) the mandrel rotates and moves in and out easily.

When adjusting your jacking bolts keep a feel for the mandrel to see if it moves as freely as it did before you started adjusting. If you are stressing the action, that mandrel will not move like it should. Simply release the pressure and adjust accordingly. If you make small adjustments at a time it will stay stress free and have more than enough holding power.

Congrats to Nate for a cool product and I hope it will do well for him.
 
It looks to me like one big advantage of this tool when it comes to truing receivers would be time saved in the dialing in process. I also like the idea of the receiver supported in a 6-jaw when it comes to re-cutting the threads. The extra distance created by the alignment system is the only thing that I would see as a bit of a drawback for those who like to dial in their barrel's on the outboard end. That's really not that difficult to overcome.
 
I was recently informed that there were some interesting replies on a thread started with my True Bore Alignment System so I checked out your sight...... awesome sight guys!.... I joined.
I don't claim to be or know much about bench rest shooting, but I am very much into long range precision shooting and am very passionate about building and doing extreme precision work. ....I will try to answer a few of your questions as well as ask a few of my own.

First lets touch on setting up a receiver in a traditional action truing jig, 4 adjustment bolts up font, four in the
rear I won't go into the method that you use to get it very near center before you even start applying your jacking bolts against the receiver, but will say this. if you are holding both ends of the receiver or barrel and only moving one at a time, your implying stress as you are moving one end while trying to hold the other end. This is minimized by soft feet and narrow feet.....none the less it is there.

next, lets talk about adjusting one set of the adjusting screws. for this example we will use the front set. you are only adjusting one screw at a time, therefore it is very easy to get more tork on one screw than another therefore depending on how much tork variance you have in your four bolts and how thick the tube you are dialing in is, will determine how out of round the receiver is influenced. then you make all of your cuts. and pray that all of your soft jaws didn't relax very much. If they managed to stay true. This is good, so you release all of your jacking bolts. Now the receiver has no pressure implied on it and it goes back to it's relaxed state as well as your trued surfaces relaxing with it. The degree could be micro it is the theory I am talking about. I do not believe in absolute true dimensions and in theory there will always be another digit we can add. I have used the 8 jacking bolt system and have always been very careful to minimize all these effects never the less I have always felt it has been a bit of a balancing act between not holding the part rigid enough and implying too much stress on the part.

With the True Bore Alignment System we are holding the receiver in either a 6-jaw chuck or a collet chuck. the 6 jaw is a scrolling chuck and when you are clamping the action you are applying even pressure on all jaws (due to the scrolling action and assuming a round surface). with the collet system almost having 100% contact over an inch and a half area. next we adjust our angular adjustment screws to dial out our angular misalignment, next we use our rotational adjustment screws to dial out the rotational run out, in doing this the stress is only applied on the True Bore Alignment System... also we have separated rotational and angular adjustment planes and although adjusting the angular plane will effect the rotational plane, adjusting the rotational plane will not effect the angular plane, therefore we do not need to "chase our tail" while dialing in barrels and receivers.

Next, lets talk about supporting the muzzle end while using the True Bore Alignment System. First, there are many ways to support the muzzle inside the spindle when using a short barrel, but for this example I am going to say we are not holding the muzzle. first the barrel is placed in the jaws of a 6-jaw chuck or a collet chuck, the barrel is dialed in to be running near true in two points, one at breech and one near where the throat will end up. so let me clarify...the breech end of the barrel is sticking out past the jaws of the chuck approx 1.25" next our jaws are holding the barrel for over 1.5" therefore from the back side of the jaw to the face of the breech we have approx. 2.75" forward the backside of the jaws. (this accounts for most of our chamber length if not all chamber length) so now we must find the RPM we must run at before our whip shows up in the rod. in my tests with the barrels I use I have been able to achieve adequate RPMS for machining while maintaining very minimal indicator movement at the end of my 4" rod extending from the barrel. in fact I have run complete thread tenonon operations with the indicator left on the rod 4" out from the muzzle, although you will see slight deflection when the cutter is at work, it always comes back to near zero run out when the pressure is released. This is the case in all chucking systems, the degree will vary depending on rigid holding and stock rigidity.

now lets talk about why I built this system....I did not build this system to shove down peoples throat or say they can not build accurate rifles without the system, this is simply not the case! I designed this system for myself as I did not like the physics of all other methods being used....including methods I used. It has been a great time saver for me and has given me peace in my own mind that I am improving my end results and that my hard work dialing in is not lost by the time the finish cuts are made. I have been using this system for a year and have been extremely pleased with the results and therefore decided to start manufacturing these for the gunsmiths and hobbyist gunsmiths that see the benefits.

Now I would like to talk about range rods. Although I use and recommend the use of the range rod with this system, range rods will never repeat as near perfect as I would like them to. therefore to take things to the next level a long test indicator should be used for final rotational run out reaching as near where the throat will end up as possible.

These are all my personal understandings and views. None were meant to offend or degrade others, just offering my understanding.

all the best,
308nate
 
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Greg,
to answer your question....I have run this system up to 2000RPM on my Haas but recommend RPM's be kept under 1000 RPM. In my CNC lathe I find the RPM desired (not exceeding 1000RPM)that produces minimal indicator movement then add a G50 RPM lock (and specify speed) so that when running constant surface feet per minute I do not exceed my desired RPM. As far as machine vibration, on the farthest out barrel and receiver that I have run into since using this system, I still have not felt even a pulse while placing my finger lightly on the bed ways or head, my lightest machine is around 3000lbs so again one must use common sense when using anything. If one needs to slow things down, by all means slow things down. but to date 1000 RPM has not been too fast for all that I have done with this.

All the best,
308Nate
 
Interesting concept, I have been a proponent of stress free chucking for a long time. We go through this on a daily basis in our Shop. Chucking long slender shafts up without inducing deflection is a problem you have to contend with.
One drawback I can see is you do have to have enough straight area on the barrel to chuck on, some of my Sporter Barrels have hardly any. But other than that, the system will do what the manufacturer says. ...........jackie
 
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