Soldering a lug.

Make a hardwood dowel that fits the bore snugly and drive it in to cover the heat-affected zone plus about 3" either side. Solder the lug and drive the remains of the dowel out. You might need a bore brush to get all the wood combustion products out, but there should be no problem.

RWO
 
RWO said:
Make a hardwood dowel that fits the bore snugly and drive it in to cover the heat-affected zone plus about 3" either side. Solder the lug and drive the remains of the dowel out. You might need a bore brush to get all the wood combustion products out, but there should be no problem.

RWO
Click to expand...

Holy Schneike!

cool answer....pithy, succinct even.
 
tjensen said:
Can you add to this alinwa?
Click to expand...

Absolutely not. This sounds to me like real info from a person who's really done it.

I am not that person, I HAVE NOT done it but I believe I can recognize good, solid info when I see it.
 
alinwa said:
Absolutely not. This sounds to me like real info from a person who's really done it.

I am not that person, I HAVE NOT done it but I believe I can recognize good, solid info when I see it.
Click to expand...

I understand :)
Iwe heard of this method before but was thinking there might be a more modern approach. Will try it.
 
OP,
Are you soft soldering or silver brazing the Bbl lug?

Purge it.
Fusion or Filler.
Takes approximately 2 seconds.
Done.

No carbon raised,No temper lost,No Bore screwed ups.
 
Dans40X said:
OP,
Are you soft soldering or silver brazing the Bbl lug?

Purge it.
Fusion or Filler.
Takes approximately 2 seconds.
Done.

No carbon raised,No temper lost,No Bore screwed ups.
Click to expand...

Well its a Baikal single shot. The original barrel is 26,5mm but the new barrel is 1"/25,4mm.
So, I'll have to cut the barrel, thread the stub and the new barrel.
What do tou mean by purge?
 
OP,
I'm not familiar w/ your Baikal single shot rifle.

Cut the Bbl & thread the stub & Bbl.

Why not manufacture a dovetailed lug & dovetail the lug to the Bbl.

Purged-to keep the atmosphere from pulling carbon/temper out of the parent material...aka the barrel.
Purge the bore & TIG weld the stub/lug to the barrel.
Once fixtured/purged & 10 seconds later....Done.
 
Dans40X said:
OP,
I'm not familiar w/ your Baikal single shot rifle.

Cut the Bbl & thread the stub & Bbl.

Why not manufacture a dovetailed lug & dovetail the lug to the Bbl.

Purged-to keep the atmosphere from pulling carbon/temper out of the parent material...aka the barrel.
Purge the bore & TIG weld the stub/lug to the barrel.
Once fixtured/purged & 10 seconds later....Done.
Click to expand...

Purging with a more stable gas without oxygen (nitrogen is usually good) only prevents surface scale formation (iron oxides mainly).

Any hardening of the barrel (most have almost none to speak of) WILL be eliminated in that area.

The temperature change and slow cooling without quenching alters the crystal structure of the steel.
It changes from body centered carbon to face centered (or the other way, I just don't remember) in the crystal structure.

Martensite vs. Austenite.

The typical low carbon concentration in stainless steels mean very few of them can be hardened at all.
It is hard enough (expensive) to control Chromium and nickel levels without hitting a Carbon number in the final material.

The extra steps to add Chromium and Nickel alter the Carbon level from what the source steel had.

Most of the techniques to 'harden' the bore surface (like Chrome plating) for increased wear resistance are not that
compatible with producing the 'best' (most accurate) barrel.

Under some conditions the loss in accuracy is still more than acceptable.

Minute of 'human adversary' is still a big target.

The military is not shooting at prairie dogs, ground squirrels, and ground hogs at extended range.
 
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Brickeyee,
Though inert,Nitrogen is not conducive w/ a TIG welding operation as Argon & Helium are among some other gas mixes.

It's not my first rodeo,in the field or at the bench.
 
Dans40X said:
Brickeyee,
Though inert,Nitrogen is not conducive w/ a TIG welding operation as Argon & Helium are among some other gas mixes.

It's not my first rodeo,in the field or at the bench.
Click to expand...

Now I'm really confused.... which surface is getting purged?
 
I gathered that the point for purging would be the interior of the barrel to prevent scaling. Choosing the proper direction of DC current flow on the tig would also help. +/- one puts more heat at the weld the other in the torch. just can't remember which is which ( old age) I always have to look it up ( same with a dc stick) Can't remember the newer nomenclatures either such as mgaw ect.
 
alinwa,
Inside of the Bbl is purged aka first pass for certified pipe welding before the stick monkey's have at it.
The TIG torch has purge to keep atmosphere out of weld puddle & the tungsten electrode of which is shrouded/directed by a ceramic or alumina or pyrex cup.


blades,
Purging- argon or helium - will keep the atmosphere/hydrogen off of the back side of the base/parent material.

One does not have the option to reverse the polarity with a TIG welder as you would have with a stick operation.
DCSP- electrode NEGATIVE.(steel,stainless,titanium,inconel,monel etc)
DCRP- electrode POSITIVE.(brass,copper etc)(4X electrode diameter required)
AC Hi Freq- aluminum,magnesium.
 
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Dans40X said:
Brickeyee,
Though inert,Nitrogen is not conducive w/ a TIG welding operation as Argon & Helium are among some other gas mixes.

It's not my first rodeo,in the field or at the bench.
Click to expand...

You are purging the interior of the barrel.

It does not matter since you are welding on the exterior of the barrel.
 
brickeye,
You are purging the interior of the barrel.-YES.

It does not matter since you are welding on the exterior of the barrel.-
You haven't a CLUE !
 
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