Shoot em till the primers fall out ?

M

Marine sniper

Guest
If a piece of brass will hold a primer, although it goes in pretty easy.....still ok to shoot ?

Thanks,
John
 
Marine Sniper

John
You using Norma or Weatherby brass in a 300 Ackley?
You can stake them in place or use clear finger nail polish to hold them.If your staking them take a piece of brass bar stock and drill it out so the belt rests against the bar then stake them in 3 or 4 places.
If you miss and hit the primer it is best to have a hole clear through the brass and a old 50 bmg case works very well for a fixture.Simply drill out the primer pocket to size.
Lynn
 
Lynn said:
John
You using Norma or Weatherby brass in a 300 Ackley?
You can stake them in place or use clear finger nail polish to hold them.If your staking them take a piece of brass bar stock and drill it out so the belt rests against the bar then stake them in 3 or 4 places.
If you miss and hit the primer it is best to have a hole clear through the brass and a old 50 bmg case works very well for a fixture.Simply drill out the primer pocket to size.
Lynn
Click to expand...

Lynn,

I am using Weatherby Brass in a 300 Weatherby. I hate to sound dumb, but how would I use the fingernail polish to hold them in place...a coat after I seat the primer ? ? and how exactly would I stake them in place ? I assume you mean I would do something to the primer pockets before I seat the primers.....sorry for the dumb questions.

John
 
Marine Sniper

John
You install the primer then coat the edge where it contacts the brass to seal up any leaking gas.You don't paint it on like your painting a house just a circular swipeto do the edge.
On the staking I use an old 50 bmg case with the primer pocket drilled out to hold the case right at the belt.I put the primer in place and using a thin punch I make 3 or 4 dents into the brass so it pushes into the primer pocket a bit tightening it up.
If you've ever tightened up main caps on a chevrolet V8 its the same thing but done to the brass.

Before everybody tells you I load my rounds too hot I will tell you my load is 75.5 grains of RE25 with a 210 bullet and 0.200 freebore.This is 5 grains lighter than Sierra lists for there 220 grain bullet in a 300 Weatherby and I am shooting a 300 Ackley which as the name implies holds more powder.This is a very weak load.I lose half a dozen cases each time I load and I have bought 6 reamers spec'ed out by the big names you read about.I have also had the big name gunsmiths listed on this website build me guns using there reamers and the pockets simply don't last.
I believe very little of the stories I read here mainly because I try them out first and see for myself who is giving good info out.
After throwing out 1200 pieces of Norma brass they can keep the stuff.I would rather have friends send me RWS 375 H-H brass and pay the overseas shipping
charges than waste anymore of my time with Norma.
Lynn
 
Lynn,

How about this idea of "dishing" or radiusing the case head, so that upon firing, the re-flattening of the case head, tightens up the primer pocket? Would this method save alot of your brass your tossing?

longshooter
 
There use to be a company that made a machine that re-rolled the case head. IPSC shooters used them for their 38 super cases as the rims got pretty tore up and the webbing expanded. A side benifit was that it also tighten up the primer pockets. With that much brass it might be worth trying to find one or have a machinist build you something.
 
Lynn said:
John
You install the primer then coat the edge where it contacts the brass to seal up any leaking gas.You don't paint it on like your painting a house just a circular swipeto do the edge.
On the staking I use an old 50 bmg case with the primer pocket drilled out to hold the case right at the belt.I put the primer in place and using a thin punch I make 3 or 4 dents into the brass so it pushes into the primer pocket a bit tightening it up.
If you've ever tightened up main caps on a chevrolet V8 its the same thing but done to the brass.

Before everybody tells you I load my rounds too hot I will tell you my load is 75.5 grains of RE25 with a 210 bullet and 0.200 freebore.This is 5 grains lighter than Sierra lists for there 220 grain bullet in a 300 Weatherby and I am shooting a 300 Ackley which as the name implies holds more powder.This is a very weak load.I lose half a dozen cases each time I load and I have bought 6 reamers spec'ed out by the big names you read about.I have also had the big name gunsmiths listed on this website build me guns using there reamers and the pockets simply don't last.
I believe very little of the stories I read here mainly because I try them out first and see for myself who is giving good info out.
After throwing out 1200 pieces of Norma brass they can keep the stuff.I would rather have friends send me RWS 375 H-H brass and pay the overseas shipping
charges than waste anymore of my time with Norma.
Lynn
Click to expand...

Lynn.....Kind of dumb question.....BUT......any thoughts that your loads are on the edge of being TO LIGHT....and you are getting a mild case of secondary explosions.!!!!

I know it is a dumb thought..:eek:..and you herd me admit it FIRST. Do you get the same condition, (or worse or better) when you load em up a few grains....or down a few??

You realy got me wondering!!:confused:
 
I have been shooting Norma brass in my 6.5 x 284. It didn't matter, low pressure or high pressure loads. After about the 3rd reload the pockets are loose. I can't feel the primer seating. But they don't fall out. 35th reload on this brass at the high end of pressure. 1.5 to 3.0 inch groups at 600yds depending on wind conditions. Trying to see what is the limit on this brass till it gives up. Twice i have annealed them. the neck tension is getting a little unstable, but i fixed that to try to keep them consistent. One suggestion on a primer that falls out is using cigarette paper to hold it in. It will burn just fine.
 
Soo Stan,Tod Soeby and BMF

Soo Stan
I had a sleeve made for my Corbin Mega-Mite press that was to size my brass back down.It resembled a bullet re-sizing die like those used to process 50 bmg surplus bullets after they have been machine pulled.I lubed up a bunch of cases and pushed them through.The sleeve set me back around $206 plus shipping and it now resides in the sonoma county landfill.It literaly scraped the belts off while cupping the casehead rims backwards rendering a pile of junk.
I have heard of the tool you mentioned but it costs around $5800 for the only one I could find.

Tod Soeby
Tod you are very wise for a Rookie.If I drop that load 1.5 grains and don't stand up the bullets before inserting into the action they have blown some primers clear out of the case.The next sweetspot up at 81.5 grains however is just too hard on the brass to give it a whirl anymore.

BMF
I did just like you are saying with the easy seating primers and they will bite you at a match.If they fall out in your MTM box the gun won't go bang and if they fall out in he chamber they always head for the locking lug area and get stuck.

It is easier to just ship good brass in and pay the price in my opinion.
Lynn
 
Lynn,
Learn how to read the wind and you can shoot the little 6MMs with no recoil and beat the big 30 cals. Brass and barrels will last for ever. There has not been a big gun and high BC bullets at any MV that can beat MISTER WIND. Learn to be nice and respect MISTER WIND, he will become your friend.................
Jerry
 
Jerry Tierney

Hey Champ
If I could read the wind like you what size hat would I have to buy? I bet Stetson doesn't make one that big.
At the last match Ken Schroeder shot a 50-4X with his 6BR and nothing was even remotely close to touching a line.
I slowed back down instead of running as fast as possible at the last match and managed to take home 4 prizes.Its been a while since my name got called.
Lynn
 
Chisolm

James
It was shot at 600 yards and is a pending record.The 4 X's are extremely well centered into about 5/8 with the 5th shot bringing the group to 1.6XX inches.
Lynn
 
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