Savage 99 loose threads

[Pete Wass]

A friend has an old Savage 99 take down that has a loose barrel threads. He wrapped some dental floss around it a couple of years ago that tightened it up for a few shots but that's all. Is there a fix for this situation? I have seen others like this one so i know it's a problem.

Thanks,

Pete

 

[martin zuck]

A friend has an old Savage 99 take down that has a loose barrel threads. He wrapped some dental floss around it a couple of years ago that tightened it up for a few shots but that's all. Is there a fix for this situation? I have seen others like this one so i know it's a problem.

Thanks,

Pete

Pete,
Most of these were taken apart and put back togather more times than they were ever shot. Iv'e rebarreled a few of them thru the years but they were solid frames. I don't know why you couldn't rebarrel one and make it a solid frame. The receiver and barrel had an interrupted square thread so if you cut a full thread on a new barrel it would work. The ones I did I sent the original barrels down to Douglas and had them duplicate the old barrel. I believe Savage used to do the same thing when you sent them a loose take down.

 

[sdean]

A friend has an old Savage 99 take down that has a loose barrel threads. He wrapped some dental floss around it a couple of years ago that tightened it up for a few shots but that's all. Is there a fix for this situation? I have seen others like this one so i know it's a problem.

Thanks,

Pete

Wrap it with some more Teflon tape. 3 shots should be 3 deer. Shoot some other gun for fun.

 

[MilGunsmith]

Some take down rifles had an adjustment in them for wear. It was usually in the front plate that the barrel was attached to. Possibly add some sort of shim plate here to apply pressure towards the muzzle and tighten the fit.

 

[Pete Wass]

Thanks

Upon closer investigation I found the receiver has a chamfer inside it's shoulder and the barrel isn't big enough around to touch the face of the action very much so over time the shoulder of the barrel has sunk into the chamfer. The barrel has uninterrupted flat threads which do not seem to be worn a whole lot.

I stuck one together years ago with green locktite and it has held but hasn't been shot a lot. I peaned the metal back into the barrels shoulder of this one so the barrel is now proud of closing a bit. I thought I would try tightening it until the forend key lines up and blue locktite it. I will tell him not to take it apart again. I am cleaning the barrel which has many years of lead, yes lead, carbon and copper in it. The barrel has a good throat and generally is in good shape, having some of the original chatter marks from rifling when it was new and no rust pits, which is remarkable I think. I intend to lap it lightly just to smooth some of faults up a bit. I use those felt plugs on their mandrill with 180 clover so it goes quickly. The felt plugs can easily be tightened by twisting the rod so it makes short work of the chore, usually.

Thanks for the answers.

Pete

 

[alinwa]

.......I use those felt plugs on their mandrill with 180 clover so it goes quickly. The felt plugs can easily be tightened by twisting the rod so it makes short work of the chore, usually.

Thanks for the answers.

Pete

Tell me more about "those felt plugs on their mandrel" Pete.... You seem to be referring to caliber-specific felt plugs (discs) mounted to (again, caliber-specific?) rods

I have another use for them than lapping bores but for some reason am unaware of the product you ref

tx

al

 

[Pete Wass]

Bore specific cleaning plugs

Tell me more about "those felt plugs on their mandrel" Pete.... You seem to be referring to caliber-specific felt plugs (discs) mounted to (again, caliber-specific?) rods

I have another use for them than lapping bores but for some reason am unaware of the product you ref

tx

al

I got them from Midway I think. Made in Germany, VFG Weaponcare I think. I first saw them in use with .22 Rimfire stuff. A guy at a match was using them to clean with. It occurred to me they would be ideal to lap out rough spots in barrels and sure enough, they work the very best.

Pete

 

[Pete Wass]

What I ended up doing

was greasing up the threads and using a small adjustable hook spanner I have to pull the barrel into the centering position. It required enough effort that I think the rifle will be good for a few more years. Can't imagine how the factory ever thought that little of a shoulder would last. It didn't! If it were my rifle I might try turning off .025" off the barrel and making a washer to space the shoulder out more on the face of the action but it ain't mine and I don't trust myself to do something like that to a friend''s rifle.

Anyway, I'm calling this one a success.

Pete

 

[Pete Wass]

There may be one

Some take down rifles had an adjustment in them for wear. It was usually in the front plate that the barrel was attached to. Possibly add some sort of shim plate here to apply pressure towards the muzzle and tighten the fit.

on the fore end of this rifle. There is a metal piece held on with two screws that is keyed into the piece that butts against the action, that may be adjustable but it would leave a loose barrel on this one.

Pete

 

[tim]

I got them from Midway I think. Made in Germany, VFG Weaponcare I think. I first saw them in use with .22 Rimfire stuff. A guy at a match was using them to clean with. It occurred to me they would be ideal to lap out rough spots in barrels and sure enough, they work the very best.

Pete

Yeah, you might want to check and see why guys don’t pour laps 1/2”.

 

[alinwa]

I got them from Midway I think. Made in Germany, VFG Weaponcare I think. I first saw them in use with .22 Rimfire stuff. A guy at a match was using them to clean with. It occurred to me they would be ideal to lap out rough spots in barrels and sure enough, they work the very best.

Pete

Hmmphhhh, shore enough!

And Brownell's has 'em by gulleee

thank you Pete

 

[Pete Wass]

Unnecessary Tim

Yeah, you might want to check and see why guys don’t pour laps 1/2”.

I am able do do a lot of stuff others can't seem to. Actually I use two of the pads and when they get squished they are well over an inch long. Remember, I'm not trying to lap the whole barrel, just touch up bad stuff.

Pete

 

[Pete Wass]

On the 99 threads

I googled it and found a conversation in which a lad advised to peen the threads forward half way and then the front, backward. There was nothing to peen on these threads that I saw but I did tap them a few times. It didn't seem to change the feel of the threads, what little tapping I did. That is a successful way, apparently in some cases. I can see how it could help in some cases. A washer is a better solution, In my opinion though. The other 99 I did had interrupted threads where this one didn't. The gap was likely less than .002" I figured. I didn't measure it but it doesn't take much play at a butt joint to be real loose, as we know.
Pete

 

[tim]

I am able do do a lot of stuff others can't seem to. Actually I use two of the pads and when they get squished they are well over an inch long. Remember, I'm not trying to lap the whole barrel, just touch up bad stuff.

Pete[/QUOTE

Ahhhh.

 

[Clark]

I got a 1917 take down 250 Sav in 2004 that someone made a brass shim to try to tighten it up.

This year I turned down a Bartlein barrel, chambered in 250 Sav and made a dovetail nut to hang the post war forend that would take a bipod.

 

[alinwa]

I got a 1917 take down 250 Sav in 2004 that someone made a brass shim to try to tighten it up.

This year I turned down a Bartlein barrel, chambered in 250 Sav and made a dovetail nut to hang the post war forend that would take a bipod.

Dude, ye a sick barstid you! Now I wanna' go make a Savage 99. Prolly just to have the cool brass shell counter, but SCHWEEET on ya'...

 

[Bill Leeper]

If the shoulder has deformed, the use of a shim may be appropriate. If it is the threads which have loosened, the technique is to set up the threads by using a radiused punch to move the threads toward the shoulder. Lightly tapping around the threads will do the trick. This is the traditional method. An alternative is to make a threaded sleeve of 4140 ( a vee thread of the same pitch as the square thread on the barrel) which is then threaded on, almost to the shoulder. You want to space the sleeve away from the shoulder about the amount you want to move the top of the thread. Then, with the barrel held in the barrel vise, hit the sleeve a pretty good shot, square on, with a hammer. You don't want to over-do it so hit and try. The vee thread will bend the square thread forward rather than starting a sheer at the root. Either way works but the first method is quicker while requiring a deft touch. The second method may be a little more precise. Regards, Bill

 

[Pete Wass]

It surprised me

that Savage would not have noticed the barrel shoulder barely fit in the first place? A flat washer that is a bit bigger than the barrel O.D. seems appropriate to me. If it comes back, I'll do that. He said he may have me do it if it comes loose again. I also advised him to consider loctite if he intends to use it much. I think the medium loctite may do the trick.

Pete

 

[Bill Leeper]

The thing is, since there is very little torque applied when tightening the barrel on, there is no need for a lot of shoulder. Still, I agree there should be a reasonable amount of shoulder contact. Regards, Bill

 

[Pete Wass]

I didn't measure

The thing is, since there is very little torque applied when tightening the barrel on, there is no need for a lot of shoulder. Still, I agree there should be a reasonable amount of shoulder contact. Regards, Bill

but .100" would be the max shoulder on that barrel or .050" a side. Not very much and a poor place to save weight if that was the intention. More likely it was barrel length that was the issue.

Pete