Sako Extractor Problems

J

Joe

New member
Rem 700 S/A 7MM WSM
Sako extractor was already installed when I bought the gun
There is no problem at all with extraction, it pulls loaded and spent cartriges out with ease
When it comes time to flip the cartrige out of the ejection ort, the case falls back in on top of the other cases in the magazine, or on top of the follower.

There is a slight chip of material missing out of the "claw" portion of the extractor, perhaps 25% -30% of the claw is missing.

Yes, I have taken everything apart, cleaned, looked for burrs, lubed, and re-assembled.

Could this missing piece of the claw be the problem?
 
The extractor was probably modified to alter the ejection angle. More towards the 3 0'clock position instead of the 1:30 -2:00 position.
One of two things is happening. The bolt ID counterbore depth combined with a heavier than needed ID chamfer allows the case to move from under the extractor as the the case pivots towards the loading port. The other possibility is the case is hitting the windage knob on the scope and bouncing back into the action. Reducing the strength of the ejector spring can sometimes help. The biggest mistake with Sako extractor installations is the idea that less counterbore depth is better. I started out doing that but quickly learned it didn't work well. .140"-.150" with a modest chamfer works just fine.
 
I already talked to a couple people that mentioned he windage knob situation. After looking closely and slowly, I figured out that the windage knob is not the problem.
Can you please explain more what I need to look at for the possible counterbore situation?

So if I have the situation that you explained above, the situation is beyond repair?
 
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How about the ejector spring?

Joe said:
I already talked to a couple people that mentioned he windage knob situation. After looking closely and slowly, I figured out that the windage knob is not the problem.
Can you please explain more what I need to look at for the possible counterbore situation?

So if I have the situation that you explained above, the situation is beyond repair?
Click to expand...

Is the ejector spring very soft? Perhaps the spring has been modified to try to limit the amount of ejection?

Pete
 
Pete Wass said:
Is the ejector spring very soft? Perhaps the spring has been modified to try to limit the amount of ejection?

Pete
Click to expand...

The ejector spring is very stiff
I also swapped it out of a 7Rem Mag that throws brass farther than I can throw a dead Cat.
No difference.
 
The problem is that when the case mount (empty case) or when the bullet (loaded round) clears the ejector port, the case falls back in to the receiver
 
Can you measure the inside diameter and depth of the counterbore and post a picture?
The windage knob thing happens very very fast. Faster than the eye can pick up most of the time. Ask me how I know.
 
Sure, gimme a few minutes.
Something else, don't know if it's a problem or not.
The bolt nose was not replaced, it is original and it is not "round" it has irregular cuts in the I.D. to accept the factory extractor
 
C'Bore depth .140", C'bore dia. .546"
 

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Diameter is a bit large from not installing a bushing but nothing jumps out at me. My next move would be to reduce the ejector spring by 2 or maybe even 3 coils.
Just thinking 15 minutes ahead. How much end play, bolt nose clearance, do you have?
 
Bolt nose clearance? Explain please.
Do you mean inside the tenon on end of barrel?
I sent you a PM

Do you think I should cut the ring off the bolt nose and sweat a new one on?
 
Ya might try

getting a replacement hook or a new Extractor kit and replacing the existing hook. Perhaps more that the notch was done to it. A ring reducing the size of the opening could be silver soldered in also.

Pete
 
Pete Wass said:
getting a replacement hook or a new Extractor kit and replacing the existing hook. Perhaps more that the notch was done to it. A ring reducing the size of the opening could be silver soldered in also.

Pete
Click to expand...

I can't find a Large Sako hook in stock anywhere so I ordered one from PTG. It's going to be several weeks for delivery though.
Maybe I will make up a couple out of Tool Steel on the CNC, not sure though.

Does anyone have a Large Sako hook that you would part with?

Will most likely sweat a new ring on the bolt nose and machine it to some better clearances.
What diameter would be best for a shortmag case?
 
Joe said:
Bolt nose clearance? Explain please.
Do you mean inside the tenon on end of barrel?
I sent you a PM

Do you think I should cut the ring off the bolt nose and sweat a new one on?
Click to expand...

What I mean is how much forward and aft movement is in the bolt when decocked in the closed position. It will give me some idea for a possible fix.
Do not remove the nose of the bolt. What normally is done on extractor installs is the bolt counterbore is bored out and a ring soldiered in. Then ID bored to the correct diameter, faced off, then machined for the extractor. Makes for a cleaner extractor install. The ID will fit the rim diameter closer which may help you.
 
Dave Tooley said:
What I mean is how much forward and aft movement is in the bolt when decocked in the closed position. It will give me some idea for a possible fix.
Do not remove the nose of the bolt. What normally is done on extractor installs is the bolt counterbore is bored out and a ring soldiered in. Then ID bored to the correct diameter, faced off, then machined for the extractor. Makes for a cleaner extractor install. The ID will fit the rim diameter closer which may help you.
Click to expand...

There is .011" of linear trave in the bolt.
 
Without having the bolt here to examine the extractor and it relationship to the case I think a bushing job reducing the ID would be my first step.
 
I make the ring .620" on the OD and in this case .525" on the OD. Be sure to break the edge where the corners will come together inside the bolt. I bore the bolt out to .625". Silver solder in with low temp solder. I then bore the ID out to rim diameter +.005", clean up the front face and put a very slight chamfer on the ID.
I set the bolt up on a threaded mandrel and a steady rest. I never take the mandrel out of the lathe. That allows me to remove the bolt and solder the ring in then screw it back on and doing the final machine work. You would then have to set it up in a mill and cut the slot for the extractor.
 
Joe said:
Rem 700 S/A 7MM WSM
Sako extractor was already installed when I bought the gun
There is no problem at all with extraction, it pulls loaded and spent cartriges out with ease
When it comes time to flip the cartrige out of the ejection ort, the case falls back in on top of the other cases in the magazine, or on top of the follower.

There is a slight chip of material missing out of the "claw" portion of the extractor, perhaps 25% -30% of the claw is missing.

Yes, I have taken everything apart, cleaned, looked for burrs, lubed, and re-assembled.

Could this missing piece of the claw be the problem?
Click to expand...
Joe
I had this same problem.
My extractor claw was just wore down and not sharp edges.
I first thought it was ejector but new ejector and spring did not help problem.
Ordered a new extractor and problems went away.
This was for a BAT DS action
Just my experience.
Hope I'm not adding confusion to topic?
CLP
 
OP,
As Dave Tooley described & to add-

I would suggest for a sporting rifle once the bolt nose is bushed/soldered/faced to bore the bushing I/D to .005" clearance per side or...ex.532"+.010"=.542" diameter.

Take your bolt in hand
Insert a piece of brass into breech face of bolt nose
Push the piece of brass to 9oclock position
Slowly rotate case out of bolt face
Case dropped from extractor & possibly catches in c/bored ring of OEM riveted extractor groove in bolt nose.
 
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