Removing Barrel From Browning A-Bolt

B

bea175

Guest
How hard is it to remove the barrel from a Browning A-Bolt? Someone told me Browning uses Red Lock Tight to install their barrels and they are very difficult to remove. Any info would be appreciated.
 
Be careful..

Someone once told me Brownings A-Bolts are investment cast and glued together. The same person told me that they have been known to crumble under the presure of an action wrench. Please let us know what you find. I have had several people aske if I would rebarrel their Browning.
Nat Lambeth
 
RS that is the same story i was told, so trying to find out if it is true before trying to remove the A-Bolt barrel
 
Red Loctite and other high strength commercial adhesives will soften with a heat gun. They become a non-issue when separating parts - in most cases. Consider that before trying to wrench off one of those barrels.

- Innovative
 
Look down your front base hole and the front action screw hole. If either screw was too long or the wood stock crushed, The barrel threads will be mashed flat. If thats a condition you have, I wouldn't touch it.
 
A Bolts

Years ago when the A-bolts first came out I had a few customers who wanted to rebarrel Stainless A-bolts .Cost me , as when removing the barrels it tore the threads out of the reciever . I have taken barrels off the chrome - moly A- bolt rifles with no problems ,but made me damn nervous .I will not bother to try and remove the stainless .Oh yah I was using the method as described to me from the "Browning Tech " . After losing 2 recievers I asked the Browning "guy " how many they had done and his reply was" lots " .I said "great" this job has cost me 2 rifles maybe you can pull one apart and send me the rifle in pieces .( I was willing to pay )He was Reluctant but I was persistant as I now was into 2 rifles using their supposed technique .In the end they sent me 2 new rifles as they could not remove the barrels either with out problems.

As I said the chrome -Moly (blued ) don't seem to be a problem but stainless is another cat.I know some guys are going to respond saying they are removing them and all I can say is good for them but I will not.

Chris
 
It's really only hard if you want to save the barrel.

I would write the barrel off. They come off real easy in a power hack saw.

Relieve it with a parting tool, or make a HSS tool... warm it up and try. If it doesn't come loose. Plan on machining the tennon out of the reciever. If it starts to gall...stop! Chuck it up and machine it out.

No sense in getting cave man with it.

Ben
 
I have re barreled several. I heat the action with a propane torch slightly hotter than you can hold on to... considerably less than what soft solder would melt at.

I only had one where the stainless barrel and action galled all the way out. I had to re thread the action slightly larger before I fit a new barrel.
 
You guys have told me what i wanted to know, the rifle is SS and I'm not going to touch it. I will use another action.
 
I have just finished working on a A-Bolt and found it to
have 32 TPI and some kind of thread locker on it.
Also found the recoil lug to be glued on to the barrel.
This combination may explain the stripped statements.
DanO
 
Dennis Sorensen said:
I have re barreled several. I heat the action with a propane torch slightly hotter than you can hold on to... considerably less than what soft solder would melt at.
Click to expand...


I did one the way Mr. Sorensen suggested. Using propane torch. I did a Stainless A-bolt in a .204 Ruger. Damn fine threads. Small too, like 15/16 diameter. Set the barrel back .250 of an inch. Stuck in together. Old Zane loves the way it shoots.
 
DanO said:
I have just finished working on a A-Bolt and found it to
have 32 TPI and some kind of thread locker on it.
Also found the recoil lug to be glued on to the barrel.
This combination may explain the stripped statements.
DanO
Click to expand...

I have never seen an A Bolt that did not have 20 TPI...

32? are you sure?
 
Dennis, I was surprised at the 32TPI and added it to the list of threads in my log book. It was .996" diameter shank.
DanO
 
DanO said:
Dennis, I was surprised at the 32TPI and added it to the list of threads in my log book. It was .996" diameter shank.
DanO
Click to expand...

I have used 32 tpi when bushing action threads and it holds fine... it is just a surprise to see it as the barrel thread.
 
A-Bolts are easy. I have never had problems rebarreling any of mine.Use proper wrench and heat a little if needed as Dennis mentioned.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top