GeneT
Active member
On the other hand, if you plug those holes with shrapnel, or, say, a Sako extractor, it could become unsafe - nothing to do with the bolt itself failing.
GsT
Remington Bolt handle re-location
- Thread starter Pete Wass
- Start date
On the other hand, if you plug those holes with shrapnel, or, say, a Sako extractor, it could become unsafe - nothing to do with the bolt itself failing.
GsT
Pete Wass
Well-known member
No,
I didn''t believe the bolt was unsafe and why I won't cut it up. As I've said, I did witness a Sako extractor blowing out of a bolt on one occasion so I know it is a reality. The extractor was contained in the action so it didn't plow out of the action and he found the parts and put it back together. I have a mill so I can plug the hole and mill a pocket. I can also go talk to a friend who is a trained Armorer and expert welder and likely he will weld the handle on for me, once I figger I have the bolt timed. Can't be rocket science, can it? All in a young man's life
Pete
I didn''t believe the bolt was unsafe and why I won't cut it up. As I've said, I did witness a Sako extractor blowing out of a bolt on one occasion so I know it is a reality. The extractor was contained in the action so it didn't plow out of the action and he found the parts and put it back together. I have a mill so I can plug the hole and mill a pocket. I can also go talk to a friend who is a trained Armorer and expert welder and likely he will weld the handle on for me, once I figger I have the bolt timed. Can't be rocket science, can it? All in a young man's life
Pete
........Can't be rocket science, can it? All in a young man's life
Pete
OK, agreed.... and worth it just for the adventure I guess
Pete Wass
Well-known member
When one is down to
the only game in town, one must do what one must do.
Pete
OK, agreed.... and worth it just for the adventure I guess
the only game in town, one must do what one must do.
Pete
Pete Wass
Well-known member
I saw that
but couldn't quite get a mental picture as to how to do it. DO you mean drill the bolt handle or action?
Pete
but couldn't quite get a mental picture as to how to do it. DO you mean drill the bolt handle or action?
Pete
That's the general idea...a piece of Grade 8 round profiled to match the root of the bolt handle and extending rearward of the original cam angle cut on the receiver. -Al
OP,
Depending on handle vintage-
G prefix serial numbered receiver to present RR prefix receivers.
The above mentioned handles are of "Short Cam" design as I've coined them.
Einstein &/or Houdini are incapable of TIMING said handles. w/o other issues addressed...FIRST.
The longitudinal inserts as per a Kelbly's action will NOT fix the issue,,,but make matters worse.
Cut up the bastardized bolts to get them out of circulation
Purchase bodies from PT&G in 1piece or 2 piece configuration w/ the appropriate breech configuration that suites your fancy.
Depending on handle vintage-
G prefix serial numbered receiver to present RR prefix receivers.
The above mentioned handles are of "Short Cam" design as I've coined them.
Einstein &/or Houdini are incapable of TIMING said handles. w/o other issues addressed...FIRST.
The longitudinal inserts as per a Kelbly's action will NOT fix the issue,,,but make matters worse.
Cut up the bastardized bolts to get them out of circulation
Purchase bodies from PT&G in 1piece or 2 piece configuration w/ the appropriate breech configuration that suites your fancy.
I think this bloke must have just used an old nail, it is pretty well worn away now but it worked really well
Pete Wass
Well-known member
You might want to look
At how Rimrock extractors are installed before you deem that folks should cut up their bolts, Just sayin.
Pete
At how Rimrock extractors are installed before you deem that folks should cut up their bolts, Just sayin.
Pete
To fix your botched SAKO extractor issue-
Press fit a piece of drill rod in the extractor pivot"thru"hole.
Fusion TIG weld pin.
Machine for pinned mini 16 or m16 extractor, depending on SAKO width machine work.
Fix the handle TIMING issue.
Done
At how Rimrock extractors are installed before you deem that folks should cut up their bolts, Just sayin.
Pete
A "T" bar extractor install in fwd face of RH bolt lug-
I'd suggest that you take some simple measurements before attempting to install one in the fwd face of the RH bolt lug in a Rem bolt head.
hint-mean dimensions-
bolt nose to breech face=.150"
bolt nose to fwd face of bolt lug=.150"
Good Luck....you'll need it!!!!!!
Press fit a piece of drill rod in the extractor pivot"thru"hole.
Fusion TIG weld pin.
Machine for pinned mini 16 or m16 extractor, depending on SAKO width machine work.
Fix the handle TIMING issue.
Done
At how Rimrock extractors are installed before you deem that folks should cut up their bolts, Just sayin.
Pete
A "T" bar extractor install in fwd face of RH bolt lug-
I'd suggest that you take some simple measurements before attempting to install one in the fwd face of the RH bolt lug in a Rem bolt head.
hint-mean dimensions-
bolt nose to breech face=.150"
bolt nose to fwd face of bolt lug=.150"
Good Luck....you'll need it!!!!!!
Pete Wass
Well-known member
No luck will be required Dan
My bolt is no more dangerous than many other rifles being shot on a regular basis. I plan to re-time the action myself.
Pete
My bolt is no more dangerous than many other rifles being shot on a regular basis. I plan to re-time the action myself.
Pete
Pete Wass
Well-known member
Welllll, here's what I did
Got to thinking about this and came up with the idea of a shim. I figured if I cut a shim the same size as the face of the cam surface on the bolt and bonded it to the bolt, it would be the same as moving the bolt handle. I measured the gap between the action and the front of the bolt handle and subtract a clearance amount, which seems to be around .010". So, I remembered I had a shim kit from Brownells. I needed .020". Best I could do was .015" so I cut one and bonded it to the cam surface on the bolt ------ AND------ it works. I am trying to decide if I want to add another .005" but the .015" seems to work the very best. I expect it to fail at some point but it survived a day at the range yesterday; but I do expect it to come a-loose at some point.
The mother of invention is - - - - ?
Pete
Got to thinking about this and came up with the idea of a shim. I figured if I cut a shim the same size as the face of the cam surface on the bolt and bonded it to the bolt, it would be the same as moving the bolt handle. I measured the gap between the action and the front of the bolt handle and subtract a clearance amount, which seems to be around .010". So, I remembered I had a shim kit from Brownells. I needed .020". Best I could do was .015" so I cut one and bonded it to the cam surface on the bolt ------ AND------ it works. I am trying to decide if I want to add another .005" but the .015" seems to work the very best. I expect it to fail at some point but it survived a day at the range yesterday; but I do expect it to come a-loose at some point.
The mother of invention is - - - - ?
Pete
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Pete Wass
Well-known member
The process
of loading pictures here is or use to be complicated as I recall so if you PM me your email or phone number, I'll gladly send you a picture. I used Loctite Professional Super Glue to bond it.
It isn't working as well as I would like but at least it works now.
Pete
of loading pictures here is or use to be complicated as I recall so if you PM me your email or phone number, I'll gladly send you a picture. I used Loctite Professional Super Glue to bond it.
It isn't working as well as I would like but at least it works now.
Pete
Pete Wass
Well-known member
Well, a man's gotta try somethin
A means to an end, if you will. I'll prolly send it off to a willing relocator after the shooting season is over.
Pete
Like Kelbly's.... only different. Well done Pete
A means to an end, if you will. I'll prolly send it off to a willing relocator after the shooting season is over.
Pete