I true way more Remington's than I want. FWIW, with the cost of new Remington's if you have to buy the Remington and then true it, you're better off to buy one of the many makes of custom Remington clone actions. No matter how much you spend and you can spend a lot depending upon what you want to have done to it, when you get done with the action it's still a Remington 700 and won't be worth any more than it was before all the work was done to it. Contrary to what Jackie says, I face off the receiver lugs, receiver face, bolt lugs and bolt face, and picking up the receiver threads and cleaning them up. There is no need and you don't want to face off the bolt nose as it runs the risk of the extractor pulling out of the bolt nose. Truing the bolt nose serves no purpose. Clearance is clearance. Jackie is correct in that when you remove metal from both lug areas that you run the risk of not having enough extraction camming. When there isn't enough camming, the bolt handle either needs to be removed and reattached closer to the front of the bolt handle cut out or a new bolt handle installed. I've had actions come into my shop that had been trued by someone and the rifle gave problems. On one particular one that I remember working on the action had been lapped in using spring tension on the bolt to lap the bolt into contact. It had contact alright, but the lapping had lapped a taper into the lugs which is not good and results in variable headspace as the bolt is closed with the bolt getting tighter the farther the bolt is closed. It probably took about .005" to clean up the taper in the lugs. I've silver brazed bolt handles back on to correct bolt handle camming. But, everything for the past year or so I no longer silver braze, but send to Dan Armstrong to tig weld the bolt handle on in the correct location. I have three of them there now and am waiting on them to get back so that I can work on finishing the rifles. Note that all three of these are current production Remington's. All thre of them had insufficient camming before anything was done to them. Probably about .020-.030" of total rearward movement from bottom of bolt stroke to top of stroke. One of them is a brand new .260. The owner shot it a few times and told me that he had hard extraction. The bolt timing not being correct was the obvious problem. After truing both lug surfaces, full contact can be checked with layout blue or with a very quick lap although if the action is true the lapping isn't necessary. I'd rather machine the two surfaces true as try to lap them true. Just my opinion and we all have our opinions. That doesn't mean I'm right and Jackie is wrong or vice versa. Just different. Bottom line Jackies rifles shoot, mine shoot, how you get there is immaterial
