Question
- Thread starter Jim Kobe
- Start date
Butch Lambert
Active member
I follow this specific gunsmith forum and check it regularly, there is so much knowledge for a young person like myself. I am a self taught garage warrior, I have had many many conversations with top smiths that really helped me learn how to build an accurate rifle. My techniques have changed and adapted from those conversations and from reading forums like this one. I don’t always post my work or questions but I do read. I read as much information as I could for about 2 years before I chambered my first barrel (now 7yrs ago) so I’m sorry I don’t post what I’m building all the time but I would like to say thanks you people like you and others that have helped me learn an invaluable skill.
Mike Bryant
Active member
Jim, I think some of what has happened here was caused my conflict between posters. The my way is the only way attitudes instead of people realizing that there are different ways to get to the same result. Plus a lot of discussion has moved to Facebook for good or for bad. Easier medium to use than here, but it can certainly turn into as much of a time waster as you want to allow it.
I guess, since we're here....... "In For A Penny".......
Wayne Shaw, what is the significance of your avatar?
And Mike.... could you provide an example of someone insisting on "only one way when there's in fact several ways"...???
I see this differently, I see a forum where we've a sticky detailing the many ways folks chamber barrels for instance, where for the 20+ years of it's existence this forum has been a sounding board for all sorts of different views and methods.... I find your assertion that certain Rumpelstiltskins have been responsible for killing discussion to be derogatory. What are the subjects referred to by your term "conflicts"?
Wayne Shaw, what is the significance of your avatar?
And Mike.... could you provide an example of someone insisting on "only one way when there's in fact several ways"...???
I see this differently, I see a forum where we've a sticky detailing the many ways folks chamber barrels for instance, where for the 20+ years of it's existence this forum has been a sounding board for all sorts of different views and methods.... I find your assertion that certain Rumpelstiltskins have been responsible for killing discussion to be derogatory. What are the subjects referred to by your term "conflicts"?
Wayne Shaw
Active member
Flying the American flag upside down is an officially recognized signal of distress. § 8(a)The flag should never be displayed with the union down, except as a signal of dire distress in instances of extreme danger to life or property.
I used the same avatar when the halfrican was in office, and he's back again.
Mike Bryant
Active member
Al, it’s been so long ago that I don’t remember who was involved or not or the details of even what was being discussed. There were a few people in some of the discussions who seemed to want to argue about anything. I know you’ve seen those posts in the past. I’ve talked to people at matches who wouldn’t post on these forums just because of that. You can’t ever tell, they may not have ever posted anyway. I’m sure there were way more readers than there were posters. I’ve always considered the Gunsmithing forum or any forum as you read everything, share your methods and use what will work for you and discard the rest. What works with one persons equipment may not work with another persons equipment. I think most of the problem here is that people have gravitated to other venues. It doesn’t help that it seems like every time I look at the forum we see another post where one of our friends and fellow competitors has left the range. I’m glad someone is posting those, but I’d just as soon that our friends weren’t “leaving the range”.
Thank You'se Wayne and Mike....
Yeahh, it sucks when people die, always has, but I look at folks like Bill Brawand sharing his knowledge until his fingers stopped and I am awed and humbled.
And I am THANKFUL to have experienced his viewpoint.
And I'll never forget the time Frank L Murphy's wife came onto the forum, my fingers faltered a bit. But we who have actually DONE stuff owe it to future generations to pass it on. I hope not to stop posting here unless Elmer kicks me out 'the room and have started a youtube channel just for this reason, to document my own shtruggles warts-feathers-n-all............ I've known 'wayy too many "characters" about whom it's said "He should have written a book!" When the real message is, "I whish't that stuff woulda' been written down!"
Children who grunt and squabble around the sand box whining that their wee "feelings are hurt" have always been present, will always be present, will NEVER grow up.......and do also serve a purpose.
THANK YOU ELMER!!! For keeping this pertickler sandbox kempt
Yeahh, it sucks when people die, always has, but I look at folks like Bill Brawand sharing his knowledge until his fingers stopped and I am awed and humbled.
And I am THANKFUL to have experienced his viewpoint.
And I'll never forget the time Frank L Murphy's wife came onto the forum, my fingers faltered a bit. But we who have actually DONE stuff owe it to future generations to pass it on. I hope not to stop posting here unless Elmer kicks me out 'the room and have started a youtube channel just for this reason, to document my own shtruggles warts-feathers-n-all............ I've known 'wayy too many "characters" about whom it's said "He should have written a book!" When the real message is, "I whish't that stuff woulda' been written down!"
Children who grunt and squabble around the sand box whining that their wee "feelings are hurt" have always been present, will always be present, will NEVER grow up.......and do also serve a purpose.
THANK YOU ELMER!!! For keeping this pertickler sandbox kempt
Wayne Shaw
Active member
Frank Murphy had great patience and the desire to enlighten those asking questions in a full and precise manner. Plus he had the knack to write extremely well. He was one of a kind.
Yes, he was a true gentleman. -Al
Many of the products claim "tung oil based."
I got tired of having to test new products over and over searching for
something that had sufficient dryer added but not excessive.
I switched to pure tung oil with enough straight Japan drier added.
I mix things up with a combination I know will work.
It is generally not worth saving left over Tung oil w' Japan drier.
No more testing and guessing if the mix is correct.
One of the 'tricks' you can use to develop a good correct mix
is to paint it on a piece piece of glass and allow it to set up.
If it sets up in around 24 to 48 hours you likely are well on your way to having a decent mix ratio.
Many of the commercial mixes have excessive drier added to speed up dust free drying time.
You want it fast enough to get some penetration, while avoiding excessive 'dust safe' time.
I still go with an application that is wet on the surface, then wiping it down in about an hour to remove any excess.
When that coat sets up, another wet layer.
Put as many coats till you have your desired surface finish you want.
I no longer use steel wool for rubbing out.
The newer 3M synthetics are much better than the available steel wool.
They also have the advantage of not being oiled.
Their uniformity is better than the available steel wool.
I generally go for a barely matte gloss finish with enough build to slow down moisture
movement into the wood.
For very high accuracy actions there is a lot to be said for the fiberglass stocks with
metal on metal bedding hardware.
I had Kelbly's build up a switch barrel Panda action (right bolt, left port, no ejector, .308 bolt face).
There are no weight limits in killing critters.
For shorter ranges .22-250AI.
For longer ranges 6 mm REM AI.
Tuned and matched shells.
Check case mouth wall thickness and group shells into matching sets before turning them to 0.0100 in final thickness.
I want those bullets centered up .
If a shell has excessive variation on the neck thickness it likely goes down to the body of the case.
I measured enough wall thickness run-out on the case body to affect accuracy even after turning the neck thickness.
I shoot off a portable varmint bench with older
https://protektormodel.com/products/windage-top-aluminum-rest-61
I want that ground hog in pieces with a single shot.
Learn and use the bench rest 'tricks.'
The bench rest guys have a bunch of nice 'tricks' for the ultimate in accuracy.
Might as well take advantage.
After fire forming I usually shoot each case two more times so they have a more
uniform case temper.
The prep time makes it worth annealing when accuracy starts to wander.
After annealing I fire them twice to get hardness back up slightly.
I have a log book for each barrel to track things.
I no longer have to pay to hunt.
I have farmers that call me when they notice crop damage.
We arrange a time to shoot, and I go to the field and thin down the
newest crop of varmints.
It is often only a single time per season on each field.
Most of the farmers have placed short berms on the far edges of the fields
to make shooting safer.
I have a 5 to 6 foot high berm to shoot into.
I 'sell them' on the berm since it makes assessing damage with a spotting scope easier.
I will loan them an older Kowa spotting scope if they want to monitor that way.
60 mm models.
I often get a free lunch for dropping by.
I got tired of having to test new products over and over searching for
something that had sufficient dryer added but not excessive.
I switched to pure tung oil with enough straight Japan drier added.
I mix things up with a combination I know will work.
It is generally not worth saving left over Tung oil w' Japan drier.
No more testing and guessing if the mix is correct.
One of the 'tricks' you can use to develop a good correct mix
is to paint it on a piece piece of glass and allow it to set up.
If it sets up in around 24 to 48 hours you likely are well on your way to having a decent mix ratio.
Many of the commercial mixes have excessive drier added to speed up dust free drying time.
You want it fast enough to get some penetration, while avoiding excessive 'dust safe' time.
I still go with an application that is wet on the surface, then wiping it down in about an hour to remove any excess.
When that coat sets up, another wet layer.
Put as many coats till you have your desired surface finish you want.
I no longer use steel wool for rubbing out.
The newer 3M synthetics are much better than the available steel wool.
They also have the advantage of not being oiled.
Their uniformity is better than the available steel wool.
I generally go for a barely matte gloss finish with enough build to slow down moisture
movement into the wood.
For very high accuracy actions there is a lot to be said for the fiberglass stocks with
metal on metal bedding hardware.
I had Kelbly's build up a switch barrel Panda action (right bolt, left port, no ejector, .308 bolt face).
There are no weight limits in killing critters.
For shorter ranges .22-250AI.
For longer ranges 6 mm REM AI.
Tuned and matched shells.
Check case mouth wall thickness and group shells into matching sets before turning them to 0.0100 in final thickness.
I want those bullets centered up .
If a shell has excessive variation on the neck thickness it likely goes down to the body of the case.
I measured enough wall thickness run-out on the case body to affect accuracy even after turning the neck thickness.
I shoot off a portable varmint bench with older
https://protektormodel.com/products/windage-top-aluminum-rest-61
I want that ground hog in pieces with a single shot.
Learn and use the bench rest 'tricks.'
The bench rest guys have a bunch of nice 'tricks' for the ultimate in accuracy.
Might as well take advantage.
After fire forming I usually shoot each case two more times so they have a more
uniform case temper.
The prep time makes it worth annealing when accuracy starts to wander.
After annealing I fire them twice to get hardness back up slightly.
I have a log book for each barrel to track things.
I no longer have to pay to hunt.
I have farmers that call me when they notice crop damage.
We arrange a time to shoot, and I go to the field and thin down the
newest crop of varmints.
It is often only a single time per season on each field.
Most of the farmers have placed short berms on the far edges of the fields
to make shooting safer.
I have a 5 to 6 foot high berm to shoot into.
I 'sell them' on the berm since it makes assessing damage with a spotting scope easier.
I will loan them an older Kowa spotting scope if they want to monitor that way.
60 mm models.
I often get a free lunch for dropping by.