Pros & Cons

M

max.burgess

New member
I'd like to build a switch Barrel varmint gun. What are my options on dealing with the recoil lug? You can pin it ( pins break) or Tig weld it or Sleave it . Id like to know the Pros & Cons .
Thanks Max
 
The advantage to pinning is you don't have to pull the action out when switching barrels.

For the cost of one pin job, it'll buy you a lug alignment tool.

I've had several pinned, and the only one that ever broke was compliments of someone else........
 
Tig Welding the lug probably wont break but will the heat damage the receiver? A sleeve with the lug machined in it would work if they still make sleeves.
Max
 
If you'll use a USA made grade 8 dowell pin to pin the lug, you won't have a problem with the pin breaking. If your lug comes with a pin, throw it away. The grade 8 dowell pins in 3/32" size cost about $3 or 4 per hundred.
 
I don't bother pinning them anymore. I have an alignment jig that I always use...

But once aligned and with a barrel torqued in place, a little Tig welding under the stock line will not harm anything.... just a little fusing in two or three places...

I am also testing another method but it is incomplete at this point.
 
I don't make sleeves, but have installed the SG&Y sleeve that was made by John Loh. As far as I know John still makes it.
 
well, hmmmmmm

I've never had one TIG'd but if I did I'd want it to be welded with the barrel on, snugged up to 125ftlb.

That said, I've tried every other method for the 700 design and currently recommend a Stiller Predator which comes with nicely fitted pins.

al
 
max.burgess said:
Tig Welding the lug probably wont break but will the heat damage the receiver? A sleeve with the lug machined in it would work if they still make sleeves.
Max
Click to expand...
The part of the receiver that gets hot would only be a very small part at the receiver face. Only on the bottom side, and only under heat for a short time. Tig'ed would be hotter than it would be if MIG'ed for sure, but certainly not unsafe. Remember, the steel used to make that receiver (chrome moly situation) would have been subjected to a draw cycle of >400F for at least an hour. Between 400-1000 depending upon what properties the action maker wanted from the steel. So, even if you went that high for a short time, you've probably not changed anything substantially. Furthermore, the area being welded is not under a tensile load (pull), it is a compressive load. So, if any part did get weakened, as long as it doesn't crush, it's just as good as it ever was. Well, it's not going to crush.

You have to hit around 1200F for 4100 series to anneal, then slow cool. If you're talking about "Prehard", and very likely that's what would be used for receivers, that may have been drawn at up to 800-900, possibly even up to 1000. Now you're really talking about a very hot part not seeing any change.

Even if an entire receiver went to 1000F, I still don't think I'd be concerned. The safety margin is so big (mechanically), andthat temp is withing the range of recommended draw (normalizing) temps. It would still be plenty safe. In other words, I would be ok with a receiver that had been so hot it had gone through a complete (and irreversible) color change due to heat. Even if you were taking about PH Stainless, temps up to 4 digits F will still not be detrimental, as long as you don't go any more than 1000F.

Of course, this is just my opinion, and opinions vary.

/EDIT

Using hindsight and having built a few custom rifles before, I cannot imagine undertaking a project like this and using a piece of crap factory action. Just buy a nice custom that has no recoil lug. By virtue of the fact you are considering more than one barrel, you've already told me cost is not really an object. Then, why bother throwing good money after bad? Nobody is going to do this work for free, so that cost has to be considered. Any factory rifle has some value at resale, so add that amount to it. Now add $200 more and you've got a custom action that requires less additional gunsmith work, and does not have the mechanical pitfalls of a recoil lug. It's also nicer to own and use! So, even if you already own the donor action, it's penny wise and pound foolish to use it. If another $200 or $300 is going to change your lifestyle, don't build the rifle....

More opinions from 4Mesh....
 
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I switch barrels on Remington and Remington pattern barrel lugged actions (RFD) without a fixture or pins by leaving the action in the stock and letting the bedding around the sides of the lug maintain the alignment between the action and the lug while the barrel is torqued. I think it is probably a more consistent method than a separate fixture. I've got one Remington that's pinned and I change barrels with it in the stock the same way anyhow. I don't get any sense of the lug slipping on the face of the action while the barrel is tightened. There is always a little anti-seize between the barrel shoulder and the front face of the lug to promote slip.

Greg
 
First off I'd like to thank everyone for there answer. I have a Custom action I'm going to use in Bench Rest. This is just a varmint rig & Id like to be able to change calibers with it.
Thanks Max
 
Perhaps a dumb question...
What would be wrong about putting a small notch in the face of the receiver, at 6 o'clock, and using an aftermarket Savage Lug?
 
C'mon Boyd..... "dumb question?"

I think it's a bangup idea'r...... I'm setting here drawing keyways on Rem recoil lugs.....




thanks to you





al
 
Al -- I haven't priced thing recently, but Brownell's use to carry the SS supply recoil lug, and of course, gunsmiths can get a discount from Brownell's. If you have the discount, you know how to see the price...

Here is the SS supply link

http://www.sharpshootersupply.com/

Edit:

(Profanity) it doesn't take you to the "accessories" page, which shows the lug.
 
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I have been cutting notches in the front face of my Remingtons since I got my first 40X rf in 2007. You can also make a bushing to adapt the small pin on aftermarket Remington lugs to fit the larger Savage spec notch. I cut the notch so it is a slight interference fit. I think the notch is better than a high precision pin fit. The lug is free to move up or down to compensate for any mismatch in the fit of the various parts.
 
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