Precision Matthews Lathe arrived last week

[psient]

PM lathe is now mounted

Hi All:

I now have my new lathe mounted on the bases. This was an interesting exercise. I used the assembly manual that Matt and his crew created. The document was very useful but anticipated I'd done this before.

As a result it was more a general interpretation of what Matt would do than the specific information I'd need to assemble and install the lathe. For instance, there was no info about the specific Center of Gravity. Nor was there any indication that you could sling directly to the bed casting going under and behind the leadscrew and other rods. I followed the manual and used a 2x6 block. This was unnecessary and caused about 1hr of additional work. Why? because the block had to be just the right length to allow the sling to miss the traversing rods AND not hang me up on the chip pan.

Anyway, it got done with the help of my wife and the horseshoer.

To start with I had to position the sling and hoist after raising the pallet high enough to get the hoist base under the pallet.

Below is a detail of the block of wood with the sling positioned away from the lead screw.

Now I began to hoist, dropping and repositioning the sling as needed to locate the CG. When this was done I started hoisting . . . only to realize the hoist would not elevate the lathe high enough to clear the chip pan.

note the length of the chain and hook. This needed to be eliminated and the sling was bound directly to the hoist boom. This permitted the hoist to raise the lathe high enough to mount.

THe next problem was with the lathe slung in this way, the hoist could NOT be maneuvered directly over the bolt holes of the bases. It was about 6" away (in the horizontal length of the bed) from being directly over the bolt holes. Thus, with the lathe slung in the fashion dictated by the manual, I could not get the hoist base around the lathe base with the lathe positioned correctly!! I either had to move the sling towards the tailstock and find a way to balance it (as that would put me off-center) or make a tool that would allow the hoist to directly attach to the lathe.

In the end my wife and her horseshoer and I got the job done and the lathe was sealed and mounted to the bases. This process took me from 5am until 10am to accomplish. In the end everything went fine.

I have now completed the sheet metal below the chip-pan, the coolant pump installation and the beginning of the brake installation. I must have misplaced the actuator arm that links the brake shaft with the mechanical brake in the headstock. However I phoned Matt and he's sending me a replacement free of charge including shipping. No big deal just great customer service and progressive attitude about how important customers are!!!!

OK. That's where I am now. I have to learn how to use the taper attachment. Any one have experience with these? Below is a picture of mine that was included with the purchase of the 1340.

In closing a word to the wise . . . look carefully at this procedure and compare it with the procedures outlined in other threads. I will eventually move this lathe out of the garage into a shop. When that day comes I will fabricate a tool that allows me to position the hoist correctly. I'll post pictures when that day comes!!

Please give me feedback on what you think and any advise about finishing the installation

Thanks and God Bless.

Jon

 

[Clark]

Jon,
Great post.
A similar post on Candlepower this summer got me to order a PM1236 from Matt.
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=216408

Those guys that build flashlights did not tell me some things that guys that thread barrels might.

I ordered it on March 12 2009 and it arrived on July 25.
It got to my house near Seattle about 5 days after it got from China to PA.
There were no instructions of any use.
There are two gear boxes that need oil and a no-detergent oil change after 100 hours: 1) The headstock spindle gears, 2) The feed gears.
There is an electrical lockout on the left side cover. In order to quickly adjust the belts or spider I built, I had to by pass the switch.
Making a right side of the headstock spider for D1-4 headstock is not easy.
It requires simple gear change to go from Rem700 threads to 98Mauser threads, see picture.


The Chinese 3 jaw that came with it is so accurate, it has thwarted my plans to upgrade.
The foot brake is nice.
The DRO is nice
I gave the Chinese lumber that was used to crating to a woodworker.

 

[frwillia]

Making a right side of the headstock spider for D1-4 headstock is not easy.

It's a piece of cake. This one took an afternoon to make - it bolts to the same backing plate as my 4J.

The key to making it easy is to put the 4 bolts that attach the spider plate to the back plate on a bolt circle that is enough larger than bolt circle for the three dowel pins that hold the backing plate to the spindle that they don't interfere with each other.

Fitch

 

[Clark]

Fitch,
OK, I could do it that way.
Clark

 

[Cal5210]

i have purchased the birmingham KGY-1440 GH lathe and have a question. the directions are terrible for assembly. i am having problems with the foot brake assembly. can anyone send a picture of the inside where they hooked it all up. the only way i can make it halfway work is to mount it opposite as to the installation picture. any pics or response would be appreciated. simstrey@yahoo.com

 

[Bryan M]

Take a look at the Grizzly website for the 0709G lathe. It's the same lathe. They have the operators/owners manual that you can download.

 

[psient]

If you don't get results from the grizzly lathe send me a PM and I'll tell you how I did it.

Jon

 

[Bryan M]

Jon, now that you've had this lathe for awhile, how do you like it? Have you done much work with it?

 

[psient]

Hi Bryan:

It's done very well. I haven't any problems with the actual mechanics of the machine. It seems to be very accurate. I did have a screw on the Gib fall out because the machining of it was not capable of seating the head. I contacted Matt and, even though the machine is under warranty, I have never received any response in terms of fixing it. It is the best deal for what you get I have found and/or heard of in a NEW lathe. Auctions are cheaper for USED lathes. Are you thinking of getting one or are you an owner?
Sometimes I wish I had purchased the 14X40. At the time I didn't have the dough. By the way, the DRO offered by Quality Machine Tools has some idiosyncrasies. Keep the manual for it if you buy the DRO and don't lose it.

Jon

 

[Clark]

i have purchased the birmingham KGY-1440 GH lathe and have a question. the directions are terrible for assembly. i am having problems with the foot brake assembly. can anyone send a picture of the inside where they hooked it all up. the only way i can make it halfway work is to mount it opposite as to the installation picture. any pics or response would be appreciated. simstrey@yahoo.com

It is good thing you had me shine a light in there. I have a screw loose

 

[skeetlee]

I got my Jet 14x40 set into place today, and i noticed a couple things that raised my brow. Seems to me i read a while back that the motor should have some type of rubber between the motor and its mount. mine does not. Also my main drive belt looks to be loose and it isnt real clear on how to change the darn thing. I was busy getting everything level with two sets of machinist levels so i didnt explore the belt deal very far. time for that later. We got the mill in place to. I spent about two hours cleaning on it. i think i will paint it to mach the jet lathe. Whats the best way to clean an old dirty greasy table on the mill? Looks to me like its a good job for a scotch bright pad on an air wheel?? Lee

 

[Bryan M]

Lee, I have been researching that BD-1340 and someone gave me this link for owners manuals. http://www.jettools.com/us/manufacturing/en/service_support/manuals.html

Also, the one I was looking at had replacement belts on it and they were the power twist belts. No disassembly. http://www.fennerdrives.com/high_performance_composite_vbelts/powertwist_home.aspx

 

[Cal5210]

is anyone having threading issues with the Birmingham 14x40 lathe. i have the gears correct and am using the thread dial. the threads are metric and i have used 1,2,3,4 on the thread dial and cant seem to cut threads correctly. i can make a few passes that are great and then the next pass will go right through the middle and cut out the threads. this has cost me a part already and i cant afford to screw up any more parts. they take about 8 hours to get to the point of threading.

i know i can put the machine in reverse and back up to cut the threads but i want to fix the problem so that i can use the lathe correctly.

any suggestions.

simstrey@yahoo.com

thanks in advance

 

[lion]

I don't know about your biringham but on my grizzly G0709 when you cut metric threads you have to leave the lead screw engaged and reverse the lathe. If you disengage it you lose it. No way around it.

Wayne