Powder Throwing Secrets

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C.L. Peterson

Active member
Whats your SECRET.
How do you get repeatability for each charge?
What are your parameters (limits/tolerance) for each charge you would take to the line and shoot for record under match conditions?
Do you weigh each charge?
What situations/procedures aree to be avoided?

FYI--VV N 133, pulled 8208 and 8208 XBR Powders
Jones powder measurer
Assorted scales

If not your secret whats your procedure/tips/routine.

CLP
 
Three people who come to mind who've tested this and posted results here are Boyd Allen, Frank L Murphy and myself.

SHORT answer, I've tested 5 throwers using every technique I can muster and IMO the most consistent method is to fit an 8lb can to the top of your thrower reservoir (or keep it full) and throw slowly and consistently. No tapping, no histrionics of any sort on the loading stroke.

Some powders require that you tap sharply on the dump stroke to keep powder from 'bridging' or hanging up in the tube.

ALL measures must be mechanically grounded IMO. Also Bounce dryer sheets applied to plastic surfaces.

Absolute consistency is IMO the only 'secret' to getting down to around +- 1/10 gr with fine grained powders like 133, 8208 and 322 but no matter what you do around a quarter grain spread is all the better you'll ever get, even with ball powders.

ALWAYS check day-to-day using a good scale because not only can the powders throw differently, YOU will throw differently one day to the next.

For long range shooting I feel that every charge must be weighed.


opinionsby





al
 
While not...

C.L. Peterson said:
Whats your SECRET.
How do you get repeatability for each charge?
What are your parameters (limits/tolerance) for each charge you would take to the line and shoot for record under match conditions?
Do you weigh each charge?
What situations/procedures aree to be avoided?

FYI--VV N 133, pulled 8208 and 8208 XBR Powders
Jones powder measurer
Assorted scales

If not your secret whats your procedure/tips/routine.

CLP
Click to expand...

While not a group shooter, I use a Harrell's powder measure with Vit 135 and use a smooth up and down stroke for each throw. I do not bump the arm at the top or bottom. This procedure has given me within .1-.2 tenths of a grain for years. I only use a scale to verify my first throw to make sure nothing's happened to the measure. I do not weigh further throws.

Maybe not good enough for group; but satisfies me for Hunter score. And...from my observations of the many group shooters I interface with in the Gulf region, about 75% of them do the same (the Charge Master's are kinda catching on though).

virg
 
Last edited:
Al

ALL measures must be mechanically grounded IMO. Also Bounce dryer sheets applied to plastic surfaces.
Click to expand...

I’d appreciate hearing the how and why for these two procedures.

Thanks

Ken
 
I suppose that you could connect a wire from an unpainted metal surface of the body of your powder measure to the connection for the grounding prong of a male cord end, and plug it into any grounded outlet. Come to think of it, no, don't do that. You could electrocute yourself if you make the wrong connection.
 
the why is

K Hope said:
I’d appreciate hearing the how and why for these two procedures.

Thanks

Ken
Click to expand...

to alleviate static. For most apps, I would say the Bounce wipedown is all really needed. Ground earth ground would only be in VERY dry, VERY static prone conditions
 
C.L. Peterson said:
Whats your SECRET.
How do you get repeatability for each charge?
If not your secret whats your procedure/tips/routine.

CLP
Click to expand...
I use a RCBS Chargemaster 1500 and have since they came out in 2005.

With any of the volumetric measures you will get about 99% of what you want about 97% of the time.
 
Clp ...

JerrySharrett said:
I use a RCBS Chargemaster 1500 and have since they came out in 2005. With any of the volumetric measures you will get about 99% of what you want about 97% of the time.
Click to expand...

I use the RCBS ChargeMaster 1500 Combo also. And, always calibrate it before throwing the first charge. 99.5% of the time I get the charge I asked for. When I don't, I dump the errant charge back in the hopper and proceed with the job. It's the easiest system for throwing powder. I actually look forward to reloading. I've had my 1500 for 3 years, and after trying other methods, I've decided this one's a keeper. ;)
 
K Hope said:
I’d appreciate hearing the how and why for these two procedures.

Thanks

Ken
Click to expand...

As David said, to alleviate static charge.

I ground the measure with a light wire just wrapped around something metallic on the measure and then alligator clipped to a nail stuck in the ground (at the range) or a pigtail of light wire hooked to the center screw on any outlet or switch in the house (at the house.) IMO it is hoovis to hook to an outlet close to where you're working because snaking 50-70ft of even light wire around the living room to hook to that one outlet by the teevee just seems, well, sorta' rednekkid to me...... but to each his own y'know.

re the Bounce sheets.....USED Bounce sheets..... you enlist the help of y'er Beloverly One for this one. (Or at least I do, and it's not nearly as traumatic as getting those estrus lures for hanging by your deer stand.......) this one ya' just ask her to set aside a bunch of used dryer sheets in a ziploc bag. You wipe down the thrower inside and out and then tuck the liddle bugger into the crotch of your rear rest and check out the slideableness.......wicked eh!! Multi-useful those Bounce sheets.


al
 
C.L. Peterson said:
Whats your SECRET.
How do you get repeatability for each charge?
What are your parameters (limits/tolerance) for each charge you would take to the line and shoot for record under match conditions?
Do you weigh each charge?
What situations/procedures aree to be avoided?

FYI--VV N 133, pulled 8208 and 8208 XBR Powders
Jones powder measurer
Assorted scales

If not your secret whats your procedure/tips/routine.

CLP
Click to expand...


I have both a top quality Harrells and a Chargemaster and use both for competition. With N133, I get .1-.2 grain accuracy with the Harrells. When I have purposely loaded ammo with weights varying .2 of a grain and shot them for group over windflags, the bullets went into the same hole (when I steered them right). In fact, with 8208XBR, I have seen bullets go through the same hole with .3 grain variation which is phenomenal in my opinion. So, with this knowledge in hand, I have left the Chargemaster at home most of the time this last year. It's way more of a pain in the arse and much slower than just clamping the Harrells down and going for it.;)
 
Static concerns

You wipe down the thrower inside and out
Click to expand...

Sorry for coming back on this one but as I do not typically see these practices being used at the matches I have been attending, I was wondering if your concerns were based on the powders sensitivity to ignition, repeatability or others.

Ken
 
It seems that static is more of a problem with new measures and powder bottles. Powder granules clinging to various parts of the measure are a sign that one might want to use one or more of the countermeasures described in this thread. Simply running a quantity of graphite coated (not the green stuff) powder also helps. I understand that putting a few drops of liquid dish detergent in water rinsing plastic parts with the mixture and letting them air dry, also helps. There are also anti-static brushes that are made for cleaning photographic negatives before making enlargements.
 
Belding & Mull

Some have experience with this gem from the past. I have one of these powder throwers and use it at home. It is as consistent with it's throws as anything I have ever used, maybe better. Nice to hear from any that have these throwers.

Stephen Perry
Angeles BR
 
Ditto on the practice. At first, you will get to a point where you think that you have it mastered, but the real test is when you try it again a few days later, whether you get the same results. This winter, every few days, over the course of a month of two, I would unpack my range kit and set up my powder measure, just as if I were at a match, and throw and weigh a set of charges. This taught me a lot about the small details of technique that are important to consistent results. One more thing, a different measure and/or powder may require an adjustment of technique. Also, weight thrown varies with technique. This is one more reason for not giving load data in clicks. All in all, it makes me lean more toward a Chargemaster. As it stands, the only reason that I don't have one is that I resist having to haul any more junk to the range.

The best practice that I have done is with a good electronic scale (that measures to .01 gr.)to show exactly what I was throwing. It also showed me that my part of the reason that I thought that I was throwing better than I actually was, was a balance scale that does not repeat.
 
Stephen Perry said:
Some have experience with this gem from the past. I have one of these powder throwers and use it at home. It is as consistent with it's throws as anything I have ever used, maybe better. Nice to hear from any that have these throwers.

Stephen Perry
Angeles BR
Click to expand...

I gave mine to Bob White years ago ( with the original box) in a trade for something else. My B&M was purchased in the early 60's, and I really never liked it because it was a pain to use. Insert the tube into the thing, pull the handle toward you, slowly allow it to go back, carefully remove tube, (now full of powder), hope you can get it into your funnel (on top of your case), without spilling any.
On top of that, it will chop off granuals from 4350 on up, especially 3031. 748 or ball would be ok, but it will never be a Harrels.
 
My son wanted to trade his Harrels for my Belding & Mull. The answer was no.
 
The first precision loading I ever did was with a very, very old Belding and Mull. A great powder measure with a cool factor second to none. :cool:

Depending on the measure and powder, you can sometime improve the accuracy by throwing two half-charges rather than one full charge. Guy Chism told me that and I was skeptical. :confused: Until I tried it. ;)

I've tweaked my Redding 3BR since then and it now throws full charges more consistently. Still not perfect, but better.
 
Determining just how far you are throwing off

While using a Harrels try this technique at three levels in your measure. You will need some sort of clean shot glass also. Throw a few charges into the glass and put back into the Harrells. Now throw ten charges into the glass at what ever speed you want, just be consistant. Now pour the powder out into your scale pan. Check the weight. If throwing 28.5 grs see if you have thrown 284,285 or 286 grains total weight. Now put the powder back and do it again.
After this do the same with Harrell 1/2 full and at 1/3 full so you develope just where you want to operate your measure. If you are doing things correctly you will build your confidence that you can throw 10 charges at one time with very little variance. Good Luck
Centerfire
 
My issue that

I am finding is CUTTING kernels with 133 and the NEW 8208. I am finding it worse with the new 8208 than when throwing 133 with my Harrel.

It DRIVES ME NUTS........

I see guys throw charges without a hickup. I have yet to have that. They will dump without appearing to hit that little wall with a kernel requiring cutting........

I am pretty positive that one CANNOT cut threw a kernel without noticing that slight resistance.

Calvin
 
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